Phanix's Blog » 品酒

Viognier — 1

Phanix — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 03:23:40 +0000

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康
2010/10/31, this memorial-worthy wine tasting event is what I hosted in public.

Viognier 為一古老的葡萄品種，在舊世界中著名的產區為隆河的 Condrieu，而怎麼傳入Rhone的，則有很多未經證實（也很難證實）的說法，同時其名稱的由來也是眾說紛紜。

有相傳是羅馬帝王普羅布斯(Marcus Aurelius Probus)在西元 281 年經由帝國擴張從Dalmatia傳入Rhone區，然後再流傳到其他地區與新世界國家。另一個說法是這個葡萄品種早年跟著Syrah一起被沿著 Rhone river 逆流運送，原本是打算送到 Beaujolais 去，但行經 Condrieu 時被 Culs de Piaux 這群盜匪劫走而留了下來。

至於名稱的由來，比較公認的說法是因為 Vienne 這個都市的關係。另一個說法是，在羅馬帝國時期這個葡萄品種叫做 Gehennae，而羅馬語的發音近似 Viognier，而 Gehennae 的意思是 “road to hell”，意指這個葡萄品種在種植照顧上難度不低。

2004年，UC Davis利用DNA檢定的方式，發現Viognier跟Freisa葡萄(主要在義大利 Piedmont)相近，而和Nebbiolo是遠親關係。

Viognier是不太容易種植照顧的品種，因為容易滋生粉狀霉菌，所以需要比較通風、乾燥的區域。另外，需要較長的熟成期，所以在太過溫暖的地方種植則難以發展出良好的香氣。另外採收的時間也很重要，太早採收則香氣不足，太晚採收則有容易產生油膩的口感的問題。

目前主要產區在北隆河，屬於舊式的風格Condrieu。而新式風格的，可在加州、澳洲，還有Languedoc-Roussillon找到。Viognier葡萄藤約在15~20年就可以達到很好的品質，而在北隆河有些葡萄園保有70年以上的老藤。

北隆河產區除Condrieu外，還有Chateau Grillet，此產區為獨佔(跟Romanee Conti一樣…)。另外南隆河也有種植，但是因為南隆河的酒（即便是白酒）多為混釀，所以要找到100% Viognier的葡萄酒較為困難。Condrieu的土壤主要為石灰岩，有些地方裡頭還含有雲母、水晶。

因為Viognier難以照顧，所以原本種植的面積並不大，但在米其林三星餐廳 LaPyramide 的主廚 Fernand Point（1897-1955，二十世紀最具影響力的法國料理大廚）大力提倡之下，一些著名餐廳也起而跟隨使用 Viognier 的酒款來佐餐。隨著 Condrieu 受到歡迎，種植者在 80 年代中期大舉擴張葡萄園的舉動使得管轄單位INAO不得不出面制止。這些事件使得這個原本幾乎被遺忘的產區獲得了重生。

在北美洲，1980年代美、加種植的面積增加很快，但目前主要都是在加州，特別是在Central Coast一帶。在澳洲的話，Yalumba是最大的Viognier釀製酒莊，主要產區為 Eden Valley，土地特色為黏土。

Viognier釀製出來的酒有很大的差異性，可以很像Muscat充滿荔枝的甜香，也可以有 Riesling一樣有花香、礦物味道，也會有像Chadonnay一樣的白桃、杏桃香味，也可以放入木桶中染上奶油、木頭香氣。

在新世界使用高比例新橡木桶來陳放 Viognier 的並不多，這樣的陳年方式似乎是延續了法國的陳放處理方式，但在 Condrieu 有一些所謂「新派」的酒莊與釀酒師(如 Yves Cuilleron)開始使用較多的新木桶來陳放 Viognier，雖然在木桶中的時間平均來說並不長（與 Chardonnay 相比），但是也為傳統果香花調為主的 Viognier 帶來不一樣的風味。

但不論釀酒或陳年的處理方式為何，一般來說 Viognier 的陳放實力是比較弱的，這主要是因為酸度通常比較不夠的關係，一般來說，超過10年的 Viognier 通常都已經開始走下坡，所以這個葡萄品種的酒還是趁新鮮快快殺掉吧。

由於香氣和口感都經常厚重濃郁，除了可以單獨作為開胃酒飲用之外，在搭配食物部分，也比其他白酒更適合伴隨濃厚醬料的菜式，比方帶有香料的印度烤雞、奶油醬料風味的螃蟹、龍蝦、干貝等。另外又因為酸度偏低又帶有香甜氣息，也適合搭配微辣的食物，例如泰國菜。

Dyson GPR Viognier, 2004, McLaren, Australia

Medium blond.

Medium+ nose with butter, oak and cream. Very similar to a oak-style Chardonnay.

Medium body. The palate contains oak wood, citrus, butter. Medium+ acidity. Maturing on lees contributes the creamy flavors indeed.

Dyson 酒莊葡萄園的土壤上有一層乾草覆蓋，這些是葡萄園除草時所遺留下來，藉以增加養分與保護土壤免於流失，以及避免土壤溫度過熱或過低的問題，使得葡萄藤根部不至於受創以及增加有利葡萄熟成的條件。
Our Viognier grapes are grown with a thick straw mulch covering the floor of the vineyard. The natural breakdown of the straw increases the fertility and productiveness of the soil, cooling and nurturing the vine roots and enhancing
the natural intense flavours of this variety.

全部手工疏果與摘採，另外利用棚子來控制陽光的曝曬程度，讓葡萄免於太快熟成而造成香氣風味不足。
The vines are hand-pruned and hand-picked. The canopy is held up to shade the fruit and allow even ripening with limited exposure to the sun. We have developed this canopy management to allow the rich flavours of the Viognier to
develop slowly.

三月底才採收以求最佳的熟成。在10度低溫環境下做榨汁，同時75%在小法國木桶中發酵，剩下的在不鏽鋼桶中發酵，發酵時間約3~4週。
Harvesting takes place in late March at optimum ripeness and flavour. The fruit is then chilled to 10° centigrade before crushing and basket-pressing. The juice is cold settled with 75% fermented in mature French oak Barriques, with the balance fermented in stainless steel tanks. The pressings are fermented separately and then blended back to the free-run when fermentation is finished (the controlled fermentation takes 3 to 4 weeks to complete).

發酵完成後跟著酵母一起在木桶中熟成，以增添風味。
After fermentation the wine is allowed to settle and start to mature on yeast whilst the unique Viognier flavours develop. Maturation takes place in French oak Barriques prior to bottling. Minimal handling and filtration are practised to ensure that the delicate Viognier flavours are protected at all times.

此款 Viognier 是非常特殊的單一品種酒款，具有熱帶水果、杏桃的風味，還有柑橘以及平衡的酸度。
The Grande Privilege Reserve Viognier is a unique varietal wine, with stone fruit, tropical fruit and subtle apricot flavours, along with citrus characters and balanced acid on the palate.

Domaine de la Janasse, 2008, Vin de Pays de la Principaute d’Orange Viognier

Some grapes are not from Condrieu, so this wine labeled with “Vin de Pays”.

Medium- blond.

Medium nose. lychee, longan, bouquet. But the nose can only sustain for about 45 mins.

White peach and light barrel note go with light chewy mouthfeel. Medium- acidity. Personally think this is a good deal, considering the quality and price (

建立於1967年, Aime Sabon至今仍在酒廠指導一切, 不過主要工作是由他畢業於釀酒科系的兒子Christophe Sabon處理, Christophe於1991年畢業便回家裡從事家族企業, 現在Christophe的妹妹在讀完釀酒科系後也回到家裡幫忙, 主要負責訂單以及銷售事務.

酒莊擁有55 ha葡萄園, 產量不算小, 其中15 ha屬於Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes-du-Rhone除了紅白酒, 粉紅酒外, 還有Villages Terre d’Argile以及Cuvee Les Garrigues, 在Vin-de-Pays中甚至有100% Viognier酒款. Chateauneuf-du-Pape紅酒有Chaupin以及老藤VV兩的Cuvee, 其中Chaupin是由100% Grenache釀製, 其中包括近百年的老藤, Parker評其2001年份時說這支酒有勃根地Grand Cru的感覺, 煞是驚人.

100% Viognier – Condrieu selection - boxes harvest - pneumatic pressing - elevage : on lees with stirring during 6 months including 25% of new barrels, 5000 bottles per year.

Yalumba 2008 Viognier, Eden Valley, Australia

medium- straw with green hue.

Medium+ nose. Lychee, lemon, peach, apricot, mineral, sugarcane, light vanilla. Shows a bright, active and tropical image.

Medium+ acidity, with light honey, apricot, nuts and stony mineral in the chewy palate. Good.

約 60% 在木桶中，其餘在不銹鋼槽中進行發酵，酵母為葡萄本身所附著或來自周遭環境，沒有額外添加其他的酵母。在木桶中熟成十個月，期間有攪桶來增加風味的複雜度以及奶油風味和口感。Yalumba 另有一款較高階的 Viognier 叫 Virgilius，而沒有拿去裝瓶 Virgilius 的 Viognier 酒也會一起混在這一個等級的 Viognier 裝瓶。
After harvest about 60% of the fruit was gently pressed directly to barrels, the rest to a stainless steel tank. The juice was handled with passive oxidation, allowing the wine to ferment with indigenous yeasts, natural to the vineyard. The wine was left on lees, which with regular batonnage for 10 months, increased the complexity and creaminess of the wine and further heightened the palate weight. At blending, the barrels of wine that have not made The Virgilius blend, here also included in the assemblage.

2008年份風格細緻且香味濃郁，顏色淡金黃帶有綠色色澤。杏桃、忍冬、柳橙精油香氣，口感濃郁豐富且攸長，有白桃、與杏桃味道以及柑橘類尾韻。陳年之後可以期待出現更濃郁的杏桃與香料氣味，以及蜂蜜及烤土司香。
The 2008 vintage has created delicate and aromatic Viognier wines. The colour is pale gold with green highlights, with a nose of pure aromas displaying apricot nectar, lifted honeysuckle and orange oil perfume. The palate is long, rich and luscious, with intense stone fruit – particularly white peach and apricot flavours, finishing with an aromatic citrus freshness. This wine will continue to grow and develop in the bottle, firstly showing enhanced apricots and spice, then after a couple of years, honey flavours and toast.

Ironstone 2007 Viognier, Sierra Foothill, CA, USA

Pale straw.

Lychee, green mango, bouquet.

Medium body, peach, lychee and grape fruit skin. Good with squid.

Tasting Notes:
Our classic yet refined Viognier has a tropical bouquet of white peaches with a hint of honeysuckle. Its intriguing aroma gives way to rich mango with subtle notes of lychee fruit. This refreshing white lingers on the palate with its long, full finish.

Vineyard Notes:
The Viognier grape has flourished in Lodi, California with a classic Mediterranean climate of warm, dry summers amid rich fertile soil. These grapes exhibit intense varietal character due to modern trellis systems combined with deficit irrigation practices.

Production Notes:
During crush, these hand-picked grapes arrived at the winery in the early morning hours where a combination of old and new reductive winemaking techniques were used to create this flavorful wine. This technique preserves the naturally abundant exotic aromas that Viognier is known for. To preserve these aromas, the juice was then cold fermented and maintained in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.

Winemaker Notes:
Our classic yet refined Viognier has a tropical bouquet of white peaches with a hint of honeysuckle. Its intriguing aroma gives way to rich mango with subtle notes of lychee fruit. This refreshing white lingers on the palate with its long, full finish.

Food Pairing:
Executive Chef James Lehman Recommends ~ The crisp fruitiness and acidity in this wine make it a delightful aperitif with an avocado and grapefruit salad or fried risotto cakes and lemon aioli. In addition, Viognier has more body than most white wines and is an excellent pairing to grilled thyme rubbed pork tenderloin and citrus chicken.

Yalumba 2007 Virgilius Viognier, Eden Valley, Australia

Medium- straw with green hue.

Medium nose (increasing). Lychee, vanilla, oak, grass, nut, fig, wet curb/sidewalk.

Medium+ body and acidity. Mineral, citrus, candy, apricot, pear, lemon skin, and light spicy note of grass. Can obviously distinguish the difference between this and the entry level Viognier.

Hand picked grapes were whole-bunch pressed directly to barrels, and the juice handled with passive oxidation. The wine was fermented in mostly mature French oak barriques, by a population of naturally occurring and differing species of yeast indigenous to the environment of the vineyard. In these “wild” or “feral” ferments each yeast played a small and subtly different part in the development of the wine, creating layers of richness, complexity, fine textures and flavours. After fermentation the wine was aged on lees with regular batonnage for 11 months to further heighten the palate weight and increase the complexity and flavour generosity. At blending only the finest barrels were chosen.

The 2007 season created a wine with both finesse and opulence, with layers of complexity and lusciousness. On the nose the aroma is intense with white peaches, apricots and ginger. The palate is lifted with ginger spice, layered mineral texture and complex apricots along with white stone fruit flavours. The trademark Viognier lusciousness of the palate is clearly evident in this wine which is unctuous and complex while at the same time showing restraint that should ensure good cellaring for at least 3-4 years.

Tardieu-Laurent, 2004, Condrieu

Medium blonde.

Pronounced nose. Creamy, oak, lemon skin, vanilla, bouquet. A bit similar to the Dyson, but much more elegant.

Medium+ acidity. Pear, grapefruit, ripe apple, creamy, light vanilla, and light fir tree. Very elegant.

Terroir : Sant Pierre de Boeuf
Age of vines : Over 40 years
Alcohol : 13.5 %
Livestock : new Allier barrels and trunks
Bottling : A hand with a slight filtration

Comment by Michel Tardieu: We are very pleased to be able to increase quantities this wine without lowering quality. The wine is equal to itself very well expressing his land without the exuberance of Viognier often tiresome after a few sips, justified criticism made by many lovers of great white wines.

酒商Tardieu-Laurent設立於創辦人Michel Tardieu的故鄉普羅旺斯區，一個名叫Loumarin的小鎮。他放下優渥的公職投身釀酒事業，對葡萄酒沒有高度的熱忱是辦不到的。另一位創辦人是大名鼎鼎的布根地酒商 Dominique Laurent，他對木桶培養的獨特見解早已遠近馳名，日本人稱他為「木桶的魔術師」。儘管現已很少參與酒廠事務，在釀造與風格上多少留有他的影響。釀酒顧問Philippe Cambie的加入使得風格更加濃郁而耐久藏。

1997年才成立的酒商，短短的十年間能夠名揚國際，主要歸功於Michel Tardieu對隆河谷地區的全盤掌握與熱忱。旗下酒款涵蓋全區，雖然自家沒有葡萄園，卻與當地最佳的酒農合作，購得優質葡萄園的收成與原酒。因為長期的配合，直接給予伙伴們種植、採收與釀造上的建議與期望，從最源頭就開始掌控品質。

Yves Cuilleron, 2008, Les Chaillets, Condrieu

Medium blonde.

Pronounced nose. Over ripe pomelo, candy, lychee, straw, light honey, and jasmine bouquet.

Medium body. Lemon, mineral, over ripe pomelo, peach, grapefruit skin. Medium+ acidity. Lingering.

Personally consider this is the best of the day.

Origin : the best and oldest vineyards in the area.Steep, exposed south / southeast, located on terraces above the town of Chavanay. “The Chaillet” is not a place name, but said local name comes from the terraces.
‧ Soils : muscovite granite.
‧ Grape varieties : Viognier.
‧ Viticulture : Vines planted in high density, 8000 / 10000 feet per hectare. Without insecticide or pesticide, the number of treatments is limited depending on the weather, very little fertilizer is exclusively organic, respect for the balance of soil and plant. Control of force and yields, thinning, green harvest for better ripening.
‧ Vinification : the grapes are harvested at full maturity and sorted manually. Pressing, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrels, with natural yeasts.
‧ Livestock : 9 months in barrels, on lees, no racking, with regular stirring.
‧ Degree of Alcohol : 13.5% Vol.
‧ Production : approx. 1800 bottles.
‧ Agreement : shellfish, scallops brochette Jacques lemongrass.

Les Chaillets is the local name for the steepest terraces behind Chavanay, their vines old, needless to say, and their soil made up of something known as Muscovite granite. Aging in barrel for nine months, and 30% of the barrels are new.

WS 93 : Superbright and high-toned, this is pure and driven, with enticing Cavaillon melon, lemon verbena, star fruit, Jonagold apple and fennel notes, giving way to a quinine- and mineral-filled finish that brings you back for more. Drink now through 2012.

JR 17 : Scented spicy white fruits, broad in the mouth, creamy but with an attractive savoury mineral depth and length.

Renaissance 2002 Viognier, North Yuba, CA, USA

Medium+ gold.

Medium nose. Honey, apricot, mineral, starfruit, honey, light petrol hint, sugar-pickled fruits.

Medium+ acidity. Dry. Citrus, starfruit, licorice hint, grapefruit, sugar-pickled fruit.

A bit pass the peak.

Location
Planted between 1975-82, the Renaissance vineyard is located in the Sierra Nevada foothills at altitudes of 1700-2350 feet (Yuba County). This is a real mountain vineyard: the vines are planted on slopes with gradations that vary from gentle to breathtaking; the complex topography offers all possible sun exposures and a myriad of micro-climates. The basic quality and character of our Estate Bottled wines distinctly express this terroir.

Soil
The red top soil layer (“Dobbins Loam” and decomposed granite) is very shallow, rich in iron, and poor in organic matter. The subsoil is very rocky Gabbro/Diorite from volcanic/ocean-floor origin, mixed with quartz, multiple mineral-rich variations of clay, and volcanic ash.

Climate
Continental, with cold, rainy winters (51” yearly average), very dry summers with hot days and cool nights caused by cool air that wafts down from the higher Sierras, and long, dry falls that usually extend into late November, early December.

Viticulture
Unusually for California, our vines are “own-rooted” (i.e.not grafted onto any rootstock). Varieties are planted in carefully selected micro-climates and soil combinations to maximize their potential. We practice organic viticulture, and use no pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides other than elemental sulfur. The combination of poor soils and old vines limits our yields to 1.0-1.5 tons per acre on average. (In comparison, Napa Valley averages 5 tons per acre – see http://www.napanow.com/wine.statistics.html .)

Character
Our unique terroir leaves its unmistakable signature in each of our wines. Regardless of the variety, all tend to be concentrated, intensely flavored, with pure fruit aromas, a marked spicy/minerally side, and a powerful structure. Consequently, Renaissance wines have outstanding aging potential, and increase in complexity and harmony over the course of many years in the bottle. Even our white wines age exceedingly well, developing rich honeyed, nutty flavors with extended cellaring.

Hobbs 2006 Viognier, Barossa Valley, Australia

Medium blonde.

Medium nose. Honey, mango skin, mineral, plastic pipe, and bouquet.

Light sweet. pineapple, citrus, honey, sugarcane, and bouquet.

酒莊主人Gregg Hobbs與Allison Hobbs，與現任釀酒師Peter Schell，現在已經是澳洲膜拜酒明星，雖僅有用小小的15公頃葡萄園，但卻握有Barossa Valley最老的幾個Shiraz葡萄園，其中有些還是19世紀末左右所種植，葡萄園採用Biodynamic自然動力法，葡萄數量較少，酒廠有能力以人工整枝以及採收，讓生長期的葡萄可以獲得最多的日照。

澳洲Barossa Valley總是給人過於炎熱的印象，太多的陽光，太多的糖分，太少的酸度，但哈柏斯Hobbs酒莊卻恰好位在Barossa最涼爽的區域，土層屬於粘土與岩石腐土的混合，易於保存水份，這對陽光強烈的Barossa是一件再好不過的事，你可以說他的葡萄酒很不Barossa，不肥不膩，展現此區前所未有的複雜細緻，但充足陽光與恰當剪枝卻又讓酒體集中濃郁，非常有架構，這就是哈柏斯Hobbs酒莊得以被酒評家冠上膜拜酒莊的秘密。

使用法國北隆河產區最特別的Viognier白葡萄，酒莊在手工採收Viognier葡萄後，將葡萄自然風乾，去除部分葡萄的水份，讓Viognier葡萄的杏桃、辛香料與花香更為集中，酒體飽滿醇厚，酒莊原本產量就不多，風乾的動作讓葡萄汁數量更少，是獨特手法出產Viognier甜酒，極為特別，風味迷人多變，甘美多汁的金黃色Viognier甜酒，滿載蜂蜜與杏桃香氣，細緻刻劃的甜美酒體，有非常好的平衡度與層次感，為375ml瓶裝，年產量僅有2000瓶，是膜拜酒莊Hobbs的得意作品，值得細細品嚐。

Winemaker’s Notes:
Picked from a 1.5 acre patch of our own Viognier planted in 1988. All of our dessert wines are made the same way. We do not use Botrytis infected fruit or fortification in any of our dessert wines. After hand picking the grapes are placed into trays and semi dried. This drying process highlights and intensifies natural flavours and aromas. Giving a very long clean and crisp finish combined with wonderful fruit.

Wine Tasting Notes:
Deep burnished gold colour. Lively complexity of aromas in this wine. Bursting of citrus blossom, green limes and pineapple, cumquats and marmalade following through on the palate. Silky smooth mouthfeel with an enduring finish. This great variety is rich and complex with subtle jasmin and citrus blossom aromas. The palate is crisp clean and inviting with rich flavours of limes, pineapple and tangelos. Great mouth-fill and luscious extended flavours.

Wine Advocate：90 points.
The 2006 Viognier is light gold-colored with a slightly muted nose of apricot and peach. It is fat and ripe in the mouth with layered moderately sweet flavors. Greg and Allison Hobbs vineyards are contiguous with Chris Ringlands Three Rivers vineyards; furthermore, Ringland is a consultant to winemaker Peter Schell. The Hobbs sweet wines are made with minimal intervention and are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

James Halliday：94 points.
Deep gold less luscious than the Semillon, but does have apricot and honey varietal nuances and arguably better balance 9.4% to 2012.

Almaviva 2001~2008

Phanix — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 03:02:55 +0000

2011/10/22, @市長官邸沙龍

Almaviva 2001

Medium+ garnet.

Medium+ nose. Black berry, leather, soil, tar, light butter, light smoky, light baked cookie, hints of bouquet and grass. Soy sauce pickled squash, pounded grass and leather on the glass top. Compare to the staidness and undertone of 2002, this vintage shows a bit active and stronger style in nose at the beginning. After 1 hr, shows mint and bouquet.

Medium to full body. Crisp medium-high acidity, and velvet high- tannin. Black chocolate, licorice, black currant, light raspberry jam, mint, cinnamon, pickled squash, leather, and clove note. Very lingering.

Almaviva 2002

Medium+ garnet.

Medium+ nose. Black berry, black cherry, chocolate chips, light mushroom, leather, and hazelnut hint. Bouquet and hints of vanilla and caramel on the glass top. After 1 hr, some prickly ash and fennel, let me think of braise beef noodles (紅燒牛肉麵).

Chocolate, ripe black berry, roasted beef note, green pepper, and light spices in the medium-full body. Medium-high acidity is lingering (but not as long as 2001). Tannin is not as much as 2001, but more velvet. Chocolate, mint and spices notes at the end. Between 2001 and 2002, personally prefer the nose of 2002, and the palate of 2001. Both vintage can be kept for 5 years from now, especially 2001.

Almaviva 2003

Medium-deep garnet, slightly ruby hum at the rim.
Medium+ nose. Ripe black berry, light smoky leather, old wood cask, chocolate, crushed grass, clove, fennel, light pickled vegetable and attractive bouquet. With beneath hazelnut. More spicy nose than 2004, especially after breathing.

Medium-high tannin, not fully matured, still coats the teeth and the gums. Black pepper spicy flavor, cinnamon, light bitterness, licorice, plum, chocolate, pickled vegetable. Crisp acidity (medium+) balances with the palate, shows up noticeably after the lingering palate, and enriches the saliva.

Can keep for 5 more years.

Almaviva 2004

Medium+ garnet.
Medium+ nose (2003 is stronger). Black cherry, black berry, creamy butter, eucalyptus hint, bouquet, wet soil with withered leaves, light caramel, vanilla hint, and light tar hint. Shows butter and bouquet style after 1 hr breathing.

Medium-high acidity (lasting long). Medium+ tannin, not matured. Black berry, chocolate, brewed coffee (a bit acid flavor), eucalyptus leaves, chocolate note, and bouquet. Full body. But the acidity is a bit unbalanced with the flavors in the palate.

Almaviva 2005

Medium+ garnet.
Medium+ nose. Grass, black currant, baked meat with smoky flavor, quince, and bouquet (light, but increasing). Wild impression at the beginning. Some volatility nose which decreases after swirling. After breathing, reveal its fruity character with black cherry jam nose, which goes with black pepper, light vanilla, and chocolate.

Medium+ acidity (lasting), medium+ tannin (not matured). Licorice, black berry, Chinese anise, and cocoa powder. The ending has a note just like the ending note of one shot espresso and chocolate. Very lingering. Need more aging (at least 3 yrs).

Almaviva 2006

Medium+ garnet.
Medium nose. Black berry, leather, black pepper, light bouquet, chocolate and old wet wood. After 1 hr breathing, shows some vanilla and light smoky notes (and increasing!). After 2hrs, rose bouquet. After 3 hrs, shows smoky and pickled plum.

Medium+ body, medium+ tannin (still young). Medium-high acidity. Black berry, plum, chocolate, licorice. Long length. Needs about 3 yrs aging to get its peak.

Almaviva 2007

Medium-deep garnet with ruby hue.
Medium+ nose. Bouquet, cranberry, light strawberry jam, light dust, light green pepper, and chocolate sauce. After 1 hr breathing, black berry and light hazelnut.

Medium-full body, high tannin (very young). High acidity. Distinct notes of jammy black fruits, cinnamon, pepper on the palate. Very lingering. High potential for aging.

Almaviva 2008

Medium-deep garnet/ruby.

Medium+ nose. Black cherry, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee, light leather and bouquet. With hint of vanilla, sandalwood, incense, and burned wood. The vanilla nose becomes denser after 1 hr, also the incense nose.

Medium+ body. Black berries, oak, chocolate, light bouquet. High acidity. Some licorice and over-ripe berries note at the lingering end. Medium+ tannin, not fully matured. Aging potential is a bit less than 06′, due to its body and tannin and acidity are weaker than 06′ vintage.

結束前面比較無聊的 Tasting Notes 之後就來講故事吧。

先從酒標說起，上頭的圓形圖案其實是 kultrum (Cultrun/Cultrún)，為安地斯山的印地安 Malpuche 族用在祭典與儀式中的鼓，圖案有許多的樣式，但大抵所代表的意義都是 – 宇宙/Universe/The whole world。

而 almaviva 可以拆開來成為兩個西班牙文字 alma 與 viva，意義分別為活躍的/具生命力的與人/靈魂，所以在中國 Almaviva 的翻譯”活靈魂”會比起台灣用”智利王”要來的更貼切一點，不過我覺得還是講 almaviva 最好。

Almaviva 為 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 與 Concha y Toro 合作，前面我們已經知道這隻酒跟智利的關連，但跟法國的關連呢？事實上 Almaviva 為法國經典名劇”費加洛的婚禮(Le Nozze di Figaro)”中的伯爵的名字(Count Almaviva)，而在 Almaviva 官方網頁所使用的背景音樂也正是 Le Mariage de Figaro 的序曲音樂(Overture to the Marriage of Figaro)，此奏鳴曲為許多樂團演奏過，可以在 youtube 上找到許多版本，甚至還有很 high 的爵士鼓版本喔 (請看之前的介紹)

Le Mariage de Figaro 為 Beaumarchais (Pierre Beaumarchais, 全名為Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais)的名作費加洛三部曲的第二部，這三部作品完成於 1772, 1778 與 1792年。第一部的名稱為 Le Barbier de Séville (賽維亞的理髮師)，第三部為 La Mère coupable (有罪的母親)。

看完作品的介紹會覺得其實跟台灣的鄉土連續劇(比方說夜市人生或天下父母心)差不多，首部曲講白了就是 Figaro 幫偽裝成平民的 Count Almaviva 在西班牙 Seville 把妹，最後是成功把到這個醫生 (Bartolo) 的女兒 Rosina。

第二部中 Figaro 成為 Count Almaviva 的僕人，想要跟同在 Almaviva 家中服務的 Susanna 結婚，可是色老頭 Count Almaviva 卻想動用領主的「初夜權」來對 Susanna 下手，而原本 Bartolo 醫生的女管家 Marcellina 卻覬覦著 Figaro 年輕的肉體，而 Rosina 夫人可能也是吃幼齒顧眼睛所以跟家中的童僕 Cherubino 有著不正常的關係。最後才發現 Figaro 是當年 Bartolo 與 Marcellina 的私生子，而 Count Almaviva 想動用初夜權的壞主意也被 Rosina 破壞，Figaro 與 Susanna 終於順利結婚。不過童僕 Cherubino 卻因為事跡敗露被逐出伯爵家，而送去當兵打仗了。

Beaumarchais 因為這部極為諷刺封建制度中許多不合理的陋俗的劇本而飽受許多眼紅人士攻擊，1781 年的時候路易十六還很生氣的宣布禁演，直到 1784 才又開放公演。但是 Beaumarchais 的政敵持續攻擊他，後來 Beaumarchais 在報紙上寫了一篇文章回擊，其中有一句意思是「為了一出喜劇公演，我連獅子和老虎都克服了。在成功後，您還想強迫我像荷蘭女僕似的每天早晨用柳枝打臭蟲嗎？」結果就被政敵去打小報告，說獅子跟老虎是指路易十六與王后，所以 Beaumarchais 又被抓去坐牢(對！已經不是第一次了，先前他還被褫奪公民權過，透過援助美國獨立戰爭等特務工作才又拿回公民權)。

Beaumarchais 被關進了聖拉撒監獄(專門關押盜竊犯和淫蕩少年)的消息一傳開，輿論大嘩。這種不滿情緒使封建朝廷慌了手腳，朝廷想把 Beaumarchais 偷偷放出來，可是 Beaumarchais 不答應，要求訴之法律。後來路易十六王室想盡了辦法平息輿論，並用「正常」的方式釋放了 Beaumarchais，出獄的第二天，各部大臣幾乎都觀看了 Le Mariage de Figaro 的演出。路易十六還下令在泰亞儂戲院上演《Le Barbier de Seville》。王后在劇中親自扮演 Rosina，阿多亞伯爵扮演 Figaro。國王路易十六還贈給 Beaumarchais 八十萬里佛，作為補償他在美國獨立戰爭時受到的損失。

不過大概是因為被關怕了(甚至在 1789 法國大革命前他還被關過)，或者是因為封建的制度已經在法國大革命中被推翻，Beaumarchais 的第三部作品 Le Mere coupable (1792)就沒那麼精彩，不過還是一樣很灑狗血。Rosina 夫人居然懷了 Cherubino 的種，之後生下男生 Leon。Cherubino 在戰爭受傷死前也寫了一封信給 Countress Rosina，這封信 Rosina 夫人找了個愛爾蘭工匠 Bégearss 做了個鎖盒保存起來，不想讓 Count Almaviva 發現這個秘密。雖然 Count Almaviva 沒有證據來戳破 Countress Rosina 的謊言，但一想到以後的繼承人可能是野種就讓 Count Almaviva 非常的生氣，所以想盡辦法把財產都轉到他自己在外頭的私生女 Florestine 身上。而知曉 Rosina 秘密的 Bégearss 也同時知道 Florestine 的身份，所以千方百計地想要跟他結婚。不過，天算不如人算，Leon 居然跟 Florestine 也搞在一起。在這回故事中，Figaro 和 Susanna 則成為拯救 Count Almaviva 家庭和諧幸福的救星。

看完這些介紹心裡頭只覺得，為什麼在法國平民百姓的鄉土劇，在台灣人的眼中就變得高貴起來？是否跟葡萄酒一樣，一旦飄洋過海就翻上數倍呢？戲劇、音樂、美食與酒類，都是在衣食無缺的庶民都會有的追逐目標，何以在法國是平價享受，在台灣就是奢華不已？期望在台灣美食與酒類都能漸漸變得更實惠近人。

Decanter 2011 World Wine Award Tasting

Phanix — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 01:39:50 +0000

2011/12/30, 當天很忙，所以只有速記

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Vina Casablanca Blanc de Blancs NV Casablanca Valley

Small and mild bubble in the medium blonde-gold color. Yeast, baked nuts, citrus and fig flavors with a bit chewy texture (w/o bubbles).

Waimea Estates Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2009 New Zealand (得獎年份為 2010)

Light blonde. Typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Black currant leaves, lemon and light melon skin. Medium-high acidity.

Waimea Estates Spinyback Pinot Gris 2006 Waimea Plains, Nelson New Zealand (得獎年份為 2009)

Light+ blonde. Surprising Pinot Gris due to its distinct petrol/mineral nose, very different to those from Alsace and Italy. Good.

Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2010

Hand picked Riesling contributes the elegant flavors and acidity balance. Begin with the mineral and orange flavored acidity. Shows honey and bouquet while the temperature goes higher. Good.

De Bortoli Deen Vat 1 Durif 2008 South Eastern Australia Australia (得獎年份 2009)

Personally think this is the best one of today. This Durif/Petit Syrah shows deep ruby color with purple rim, and nose includes jammy fruit flavors, leather, and black pepper hint. Although the tannin is high and young, the mouth feel is still comfortable. The medium+ acidity, tannin and the dense fruity shows its aging potential (I think 5 yrs aging is not a problem). Good.

VinEcol Mendoza 2010 Oak Reserve Malbec (得獎年份為2009)

Although I think the viticulture style of this winery is a bit over, this long maceration Malbec do show the charming bouquet. Nose also includes over-ripe black berries, vanilla, and leather. The tannin mouth feel is a bit rough.

Bird in Hand Shiraz Two in the Bush 2010 Mt. Lofty Ranges, South Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2009)

Similar to the 2008 Durif, but this Shiraz shows bigger structure, fuller body and denser nose. Leather, berry jams, bouquet and light butter. Too early to drink, need at least 3 yrs aging.

Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Margaret River, Western Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2007)

Not as energetic and active as other Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, this one shows a implicit and undertone style. Leather, light green pepper, berries, oak barrel. The palate is very lingering… Good.

吃飯閒聊品酒會

Phanix — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 05:47:34 +0000

2010/10/9
忘記是為什麼四五個人聚在一起吃飯喝酒，地點是令人緬懷的孔雀

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Chapel Down Tenterden England NV Sparkling Rose

Very Light pink color. Lots of active bubbles, and lasting for more than 1 hr.

Nose is light. Flower, egg white, black cherry.

Orange acidity flavor, light candy. The mouth feel of bubbles is a bit sharp. High acidity.

Chateau Paveil de Luze 1998

Cru Bourgeois, Margaux.

Deep ruby with garnet hue. Can’t believe this is a 12 yrs old.

Medium nose. Pickled squash (decreasing), wet soil (decreasing), vegetable (decreasing), rotten leaves (decreasing), with chocolate, black currant. After about 0.5-1 hr breathing, shows sweet black cherry and flower noses, just like typical Margaux.

Medium- body with medium- acidity and tannin (matured and velvet). Dry but with a bit fruity sweetness. Chocolate, black berry, light flowers. Medium length. At its peak!!

Holy cow Riesling 2006

Light blond.

Medium mineral (decreasing), honey (increasing), lemon, and peach. Some petrol nose is light and decreasing.

Palate has citrus, light green apple, and petrol flavors. Medium- acidity and body. Off-dry and medium- length.

Schramsberg Cremant 1988 Demi-sec

Schramsberg is a sparkling wine winery in Calistoga (northwest of Napa, belongs to Napa AVA), and it was founded by a Germany family. This sparkling wine house follows the traditional Champenoise method to produce great wines, especially for their vintage sparklings. This Cremant is made by Flora (a cross of Sémillon and Gewürztraminer developed at UC Davis) with a small portion of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.

Deep tawny color.

Medium to pronounced nose. Caramel sauce, cake, coffee, milk, chocolate. All relate to desserts.

The body is medium to full, still keeps its structure (well, no bubbles after 20+ yrs). Low to medium acidity. Ripe apple, apple pie, citrus, chocolate, caramel and coffee.

Very Brilliant.

WS 7x 的波爾多級數酒

Phanix — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 06:44:31 +0000

Chateau Croizet Bages 2001
未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Croizet Bages, one of the 5th crus in Bordeaux 1855 classification. The name Croizet is from the owner in 18th century, the Croizet brothers. The record showed that vines were grown from the 16th century in the Bages village. Bages, in the Pauillac plateau, neighbor to Pauillac downtown to the north, and St.-Julien town to the south. The majority soil in Bages is gravel, which are good for Cabernet Sauvignon. Chateau Croizet Bages has 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc.

In 1942, the estate was purchased by Paul Quié, and then his son Jean-Michel in 1968. In 2001, the 3rd generation, brother-sister duo Jean-Philippe and Anne-Françoise. Jean and Anne hired oenologist and technical director Jean Louis Camp, vineyard manager Lucien Cintrat and cellar master Philippe Dorbessan to improve the unstable quality. After thes revolutions, the quality of Croizet Bages has some improvements (especially comparing with the terrible 2001 vintage).

Most critics think the unstable quality is due to the machine harvest. Besides, some people think they do not select berries very well after harvest. However, there’s one thing very weird. Croizet Bages sorts the berries manually and prune unqualified berries before the machine harvest to prevent the harvest machine hurts the vines. However, I have no idea why they can do these manual sorting works, but not will to perform manual harvest?! In my opinion, the unworthy quality is due to both machine harvest and the unreliable berry selection. Because, it’s not easy for berry selection of massive grapes after the machine harvest, and manual sorting time must be also short or they would miss the “best” machine harvest time.

Anyway, this WS 78 Ch. Croizet Bages 2001 is definitely impressive, but not a “brilliant” experience. XD

Medium garnet appearance, looks nice. Pronounced green pepper, smoky, leather, burning plastic, and burned wood stock. After about 10 days, shows some aged soy sauce flavors, personally think much better than when I just de-corked (but still unpleasant). The flavors in palate is also strong with medium+ body. However, I do not like the “too-over” green pepper, burning plastic and smoky notes. The palate is very short, I think that’s the main reason why Wine Spectator gave it 78 callousedly. Honestly, this ~NT$1000 5th growth chateau wine (well, I bought it due to my curiosity) is more worthless than many jug wines in hypermarkets.

Croizet Bage 是法國波爾多1855年分級當中的五及酒莊。Croizet 這個名字是來自18世紀時擁有該酒莊的家族姓氏，而 Bages 則是 Pauillac 中的小村落名稱。該酒莊的葡萄種植記錄可以回溯到16世紀。目前主要種植60%的 Cabernet Sauvignon, 32%的 Merlot, 其他則是 Cabernet Franc。

1942年時，該酒莊換手到 Paul Quié 手上，然後 1968 年傳給他兒子 Jean-Michel，然後在 01 年再傳給第三代 Jean-Philippe 和 Anne-Françoise。在第三代手上開始有一些改革，聘請 Jean Louis Camp 來當顧問，以及 Lucien Cintrat 管理葡萄園，Philippe Dorbessan 管理酒窖。也因此 Croizet Bages 的品質開始有一些進步（特別是跟很糟糕的2001年份比較）。

許多品評都認為 Croizet Bages 的品質會如此不堪是因為 Quié 家族採用機器採收的緣故，而有些則是認為他們的選果做的並不確實。但，奇妙的是Croizet Bages在採收之前會用人工先將葡萄藤做整理，以免採收時傷到葡萄藤，或者採到品質不佳的葡萄。這點實在令人納悶，都已經可以使用人力作這樣的整理動作了，那為什麼不乾脆採用人工採收呢？至於前述品質不堪的原因，我想兩者應該都有影響，畢竟機器採收後大量的葡萄在榨汁之前並不會有太多的時間再來做挑選的動作；而採收之前的整理與去除不良果實的時間我想應該也是有限，很難做到很確實，要不然會錯過「大部分」葡萄的最佳採收時間。

無論如何，這款WS給了 78 分的 01 年份確實令人印象深刻，不過不是好的那種就是了。 XD

中等石榴石色澤，外觀看起來很正常。相氣勢很濃重的青椒、煙燻、皮革、燃燒的木頭混塑料的味道，著實令人不舒服。放個約十天之後出現老醬油的味道，但我覺得這比剛開瓶時的可怕味道要讓人更容易接受。酒體中等，入口的味道很強烈，但是跟香氣一樣是令人不太舒服。另外值得注意的是在口中的味道非常短暫，我想這是 Wine Spectator 給了這樣殘忍低分的原因。老實說，這瓶因為「好玩」花了一千塊買的五級酒莊比起大賣場許多便宜貨更不值。

Chardonnay Tasting

Phanix — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:19:33 +0000

2011/12/19, @品集生活
燈光偏昏暗，外觀顏色部分或許不準確 / Light is not so good for a tasting event, so the appearance might be incorrect.

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

The name, Chardonnay, probably comes from “Chardonnay” village in Maconnais region of Bourgogne. Actually, this variety is a crossing of Gouais Blanc and Pinot (the parent of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc). The viticulture record of Chardonnay can be tracked back to the 1st or 2nd century. Chardonnay is the 2nd widest planted variety all over the world. The 1st variety, Airen, mostly planted in Spain, is usually used for making spirits and low quality wines.

The origination of Chardonnay variety does not comes from “Chardonnay” village, and the very beginning planting area of this variety may not be in this village. Though, the viticulture of Chardonnay became common after the 6th or 7th century, and the name “Chardonnay” was not common until 19th century. The “burst” of planting Chardonnay is from 1980-1990, and this “burst” is majorly in USA and Australia. This burst also makes USA is the #1 largest planting area of Chardonnay, and Australia takes the 2nd place (France is #3). The planting area of Chardonnay in USA comes from 7200 ha in 1980 to 40000 ha in 2005 (overpass France in 1988).

Chardonnay is an early bud and quick maturing variety, so the great regions of this variety are usually in colder areas. Skin is thin, so mold can more easily affect it. Besides, Chardonnay also has more Millerandage (berry size differs a lot, due to the blooming time difference) problems than other variety. However, Millerandage sometimes provides wine makers small berry full of flavors to making great wine.

Chardonnay also contains more diacetyl (丁二酮，屬二酮類), so it is also a good candidate variety for making noble wines. Diacetyl can contributes smooth/chewy mouthfeel and flavors into the wines. The best soils for Chardonnay is chalk soil, clay, and limestone. Chalk soil contains more carbonic acid, which is good for producing the acidity of grapes. Clay is usually not a good soil for vines, due to its high density. However, the roots of Chardonnay is more “powerful/mighty” than other varieties, so clay can help Chardonnay to construct the flavors and improve the density of flavors. Limestone soil has the advantages of clay and chalk soil.

Chardonnay is a high yield variety. 8000 L/ha can still provide normal quality, although great Chardonnay wines are usually from vineyards of about 5000 L/ha. (For other varieties, 5000 L/ha is high yield). When the weather gets warmer and berries get into the maturing period, the acidity decreasing speed and the sugar increasing speed of Chardonnay are faster than other varieties. Thus, many wine makers do not use “full mature” berries. In colder regions, the Chardonnay usually contributes green fruits, such as green apple and green lemon. In warmer region, pineapple, peach, banana, and other tropical fruit flavors are more common.

In Chile, Sauvignon Blanc is probably a more famous variety, but Chardonnay is actually the #1 planted variety, which occupies more than 7500 ha vineyards. Chile Chardonnay was similar to USA style before, but turns into less oak barrel style in these years. High acidity and green citrus flavors are the major style of Chile Chardonnay.

Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are two major communes in Cote de Beaune. Chassagne-Montrachet borders on the south of Puligny-Montrachet. Chassagne-Montrachet Chardonnay usually gives higher-tone and more oak barrel effects than Puligny-Montrachet. Puligny-Montrachet usually gives undertone image and green citrus.

Aloxe commune is the renowned commune producing Chardonnay in Cote de Nuits, and Corton-Chalemagne is the Grand cru in this commune. More smoky, acidity, strong and firm.

Shaw+Smith M3 Chardonnay 2009

Light straw.

Light oak nose, cedar, light cream, lemon, green apple, mineral and dry grass nose.

Medium- body. Grass, green lemon, grapefruit skin, light cedar, and mineral palate. High acidity and lingering.

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2009

Light straw with blonde hue.

More wood nose than Shaw+Smith. Orange, light hazelnut, wood,mineral, butter, apple, light bouquet and honey, vanilla hint, light eucalyptus, pickled peach, and light flint.

Medium body. Grapefruit skin, orange, pineapple, and clove hint. More barrel. Citrus skin bitterness at the end. Medium-high acidity.

Concha y Toro Amelia Chardonnay 2008

Medium- blond.

Medium nose. Wet grass, light black currant leaves, light smoky, wet wood, light nuts, almond, light pineapple, bouquet perfume, butter and vanilla (increasing).

Medium body. Green lemon, butter. Medium-high acidity. The palate is not as interesting as the nose.

B. Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon 2008

Medium blond.

Medium nose. Light toast, light honey, green lemon, sidewalk, and caramel red bean sauce.

Medium- body. Green lemon, yogurt, grass, mineral, citrus skin, unripe orange juice. High acidity, firm and sharp mouth feel.

Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrieres 2000

Medium- gold-blond.

Pickled prune, light oxidized nose (decreasing), light savory (decreasing), coconut cheese bread, baked chestnut, light caramel, and vanilla (increasing). Old wine nose at the beginning, but shows some young energy after breathing.

Medium body. Over ripe pineapple, mineral, walnut, and cream.

Vincent Girardin Corton-Chalemagne 2009

Medium- blond.

Mineral, mint, peach, flower, dry grass, cedar, green apple, light orange, vanilla, and charming bouquet (like rose!) in nose.

Medium body. Dry grass, mineral, citrus. High acidity.

F. Gagnard Criot-Batard-Montrachet 2006

Medium blond with gold hue.

Bouquet, light walnut,butter, baked sliced meat, mineral, light banana, peanuts, light animal fur, and burned rosemary.

High acidity and medium+ body. Orange, citrus, wood. The palate is not as complex as the nose, but still good and very concentrated.

Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet 2003

Medium blond with gold hue.

BUTTER!!!!, buttery toast, peach, hazelnut.

Very lingering palate. Grass, butter, oak barrel, flower.

Wine Spectator Top 100 California Chardonnay Tasting

Phanix — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:35:00 +0000

2011/5/27

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康。

Wine Spectator 每年都會選出當年度上市酒款的 Top 100，評選標準除了品質之外，還包含了是否容易取得。所以，名列 Top 100 的酒款不見得是分數 95+ 的怪物，但至少有一定品質，同時很容易就能買到，我個人認為這是個不錯的選酒指南，而且品質都有其水準。不過，台灣的葡萄酒界常拿這個話題來炒作，被選入的酒款常常瞬間價格水漲船高，而失去了 Wine Spectator 原本挑選 Top 100 的美意。(比方說這次品飲的某款 Chardonnay，國外售價差不多在30米金，但在台灣價格卻近乎2000新台票，進口商也賺太大了…)

加州的 Chardonnay 也有許多酒款入選過 WS Top 100，且水準不遜於 Bourgogne 與 Chablis。說到加州的 Chardonnay，通常大家先聯想到的是 Napa Valley AVA，但因為在加州當了將近一年的酒鬼交換研究人員，反而覺得 Santa Cruz Mountains AVA 的 Chardonnay 更是令人驚艷。

Santa Cruz Mountains 雖然比 Napa Valley 要更南邊，但以其較高的海拔與靠海的條件，所以在較長的日曬時間之外還能夠擁有較冷涼的氣候，提供 Chardonnay 一個可以有高糖分與酸度與香氣的成長環境。高品質的 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 在木桶的使用上很類似 Bourgogne Grand Cru 的風格，而不會像 “Oaked” Chardonnay 那樣過於濃郁，所以可以在木桶創造的風味之外讓人感受到礦石、果香與花香的豐富性。

這次的品酒會主要的重點在加州的 Chardonnay，特別是 Santa Cruz Mountains 產區的酒款，此外，為了做比較，另外有一瓶 Chablis 來做為冷冽 Chardonnay 的對照以及一瓶來自日本的酒款來做為比較。

Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2005

Medium+ blonde, green hue.

Medium+ nose. Light spicy, barrel, light acacia, light fruit candy (increasing), orange, honey, mineral and flint. After breathing, aspalagus, maple sugar and light black currant leaves.

Medium body with high acidity. Citrus, light apricot, light honey and coffee.

Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2006

Medium blonde.

Butter, light dry fruit and fresh mint at the beginning of the medium+ nose. Grape fruit, light cream and distinct mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note after breathing, the same to the 05 vintage, this probably is the character of Mount Eden.

High acidity. Apricot, pineapple, light spices and light mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note. (grapefruit, cream cheese, spices, eucalyptus leaves. licorice@end)

Personally dislike the black currant leaves note, but I have to say these two vintages are good from a wine tasting view.

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay 2007

Medium- Blonde with green hue.

Medium- nose. Pineapple, beneath light honey, light peach, and increasing noses of vanilla, smoke, flint and light cream. (fresh oak barrel, spicy grasses, light petrol)

High acidity and medium+ body in palate. Mineral, pineapple, light cream and increasing smoke note. Interesting anise note at the end. (barrel, veg, light dry fruit)

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Home Ranch Chardonnay 2005

For more stories of “Home Ranch”, plz check my past tasting note.

Medium blonde with green hue.

Medium nose. Distinct honey, hazelnut, light citrus, 甜豆沙, 黑糖紅豆漿汁, mineral (sidewalk), light chocolate, beneath chocolate. After breathing, toast, 冬瓜茶, 仙草蜜, spicy vanilla. Attractive, charming, sweet and elegant flavors and aromas. (citrus, and plastic pipe)

Honey, light spicy, 水煮竹筍, 豆沙, light ripe orange(, dry fruits, white pepper, roasted nuts, walnut) in the palate. High acidity. So good, just like a Bourgogne Grand Cru.

個人認為這款 Home Ranch 跟下一款的 Mount Bello 是這天最好的…

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Mount Bello Chardonnay 2006

(沒有 06 的照片，拿 07 的… )
Medium- blonde with green hue.

Medium nose. Light lemon, ornage, light acacia, light wood cask, and toast.

Lingering high acidity. Citrus, apricot, mineral, mango, white pepper, almond and acacia. Simple in palate flavor types but very concentrated.

Good and elegant, but I think it must be much better after 3-5 yrs.

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2006

Medium blonde.

Medium- nose. Orange, apricot, mineral, nuts, creamy, bouquet and white pepper.

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2007

Medium blonde with notable green hue.

Medium nose. Chestnut, light hone, pineapple, baked bread, light peach, light creamy butter, light orange and a bit gravel.

Dry fruit, apricot, wood, grapefruit and butter in the high acidity palate.

These two Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay are a bit similar to “Oaked” Chardonnay, but keep the mineral terroir and are not so over in the oak notes.

Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudevey 2006

Medium- blonde.

Medium- nose. Honey, mineral (light flint), orange, grapefruit skin.

Medium body. High acidity. Orange, apricot, lemon, light honey, light dry fruit.

This Chablis is lighter in both nose and palatel, comapre to preceding California Chardonnay wines.

登美の丘ワイナリー登美2004

神の雫酒款。表現很好，不過 7000 日幣的價格不太便宜，如果可以在 1500 台幣內的話會很殺… @@”
Medium- blonde.

Medium nose. Boiled popcorn, steel (金屬斷面), 豆沙, creamy, light savory note.

The palate contains barrel, cream, popcorn, mineral, nuts, and 豆沙. Very high in acidity and light savory.

[試菜] 品爵小館 PinJ

Phanix — Sat, 10 Sep 2011 00:47:57 +0000

WSET 課程同學 Ryan 在台中開的法國菜餐廳，最近開始試賣，2011/8/26去捧場試菜。感覺得出來還在磨合期，希望他們能夠趕快進步。

Chablis 浸漬橄欖。好吃!

麵包、小點、奶油、油醋醬
油醋醬跟麵包都好吃，小點心對我來說有點偏鹹。

冷前菜 – 新鮮干貝芒果酪梨沙拉佐紅椒醬汁 (Diver scallop marinated in vinaigrette & diced avocado, mango, red pepper coulis. Pairing with Domaine Andre et Michel Quenard 2009, Savoie, France)
搭的酒 Domaine Andre et Michel Quenard 2009, Savoie, France，很特殊的品種與產區。干貝新鮮美味，搭配紅椒醬汁時更彰顯鮮甜。芒果酪梨的調味在和搭配的餐酒一起享用時，會在口中爆出濃濃的芒果酪梨香氣。唯一的缺點是當入口的生菜太大口時，會被這款白酒引出草苦味道，不過這也是許多白酒跟生菜搭配時的問題。

Soup of the day – 奶油南瓜湯。creamy and yammy

熱前菜 – 加拿大鵝肝佐藍莓波特醬汁搭配白桃 (Canadian foie gras poached, served with blue berry port wine sauce & peach. Pairing with Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2009, Mosel, Germany)
不用吃就知道這個搭配很讚，略甜且帶適當酸度的酒來搭鵝肝以及略甜味的醬汁與白桃不太可能失敗。

熱前菜 – 新鮮波士頓龍蝦義大利麵佐奶油海膽醬汁松露卡布奇諾 (Maine Lobster poached in burre monte, uni ravioli with uni sauce & truffle foam. Pairing with Domaine de Cezin Rose 2009, Coteaux du Loire, France)
好吃，特別是義大利餃，不過可惜的是龍蝦略乾。搭配的餐酒 Domaine de Cezin Rose 2009 來自Coteaux du Loire, France，這個搭配也很好，充分引出海鮮的味道。

Sorbet
蜂蜜檸檬… <3

主菜 – 香煎安格斯無骨黑牛搭迷你洋蔥節瓜花 (Black Angus Beef seared, baby onion, courgette flower, dried tomato, dauphinoise potatoes & beef reduction. Pairing with Chateau Villa Bel Air 2005, Graves, Bordeaux, France)
牛排(其他的是配角所以跳過 XD)。個人不太滿意旁邊的牛排醬汁收得有點乾，以及海鹽與黑胡椒在盤上的位置，所以也直接跟 Ryan 說了…
牛肉為三分熟，跟酒的搭配很棒。另外，紅酒單喝也很好，Lynch Bages 家族的實力果然不容小覷。

主菜 – 低溫烘烤鮭魚佐南瓜搭配甘藍與味噌醬 (Salmon seared unilateral on the skin, roasted pumpkin, Brussels sprout, miso sauce. Pairing with Torres Vina Esmeralda 2010, Penedes, Spain)
非常好吃的一道菜，尤其跟所搭配的酒 Torres Vina Esmeralda 2010 結合得很棒，Muscat 與 Gewurztraminer 的荔枝與玫瑰香氣以及柑橘口感整個跟食物融合在一起。

Cheese Plate

另外還有一個甜點法式蘋果塔，搭配的酒是 Domaine des Bernadine 2009, Muscat Beaurnes de Venise, France。這裡沒有正式的甜點師傅，所以都是跟外頭的甜點蛋糕店配合，所以在甜點這邊就弱掉，甚為可惜。

Macron 一個抹茶口味，略甜一些

另一個莓果口味(應該沒記錯吧?) Macron 與咖啡搭配起來很棒，烘焙造成的焦糖化香味整個突顯出來。

總結，每道餐都搭配酒的菜單非常的棒，是 Ryan 這邊的優勢，不過在餐點上仍須趕快加油(特別是甜點)！

Weinlaubenhof Kracher Tasting

Phanix — Sat, 13 Aug 2011 09:56:33 +0000

2010/12/30

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Kracher這家奧地利國寶級酒廠由Aloix Kracher Sr. 創立，在Aloix Kracher Jr.手上攀上高峰，目前由第三代 Gerhard 經營。

Aloix Kracher Sr. 慧眼獨具，早許多人之前在 Neusiedlersee 這個多霧、多水氣，上午冷涼下午炎熱的區域種植葡萄。Neusiedlersee 屬於Burgenland 產區，整個 Burgenland 現今也成為奧地利有名的貴腐酒產地。

出生於 1959 年的 Aloix Kracher Jr. 為酒廠最主要的靈魂人物，原本主攻化學，並在藥廠工作，閒暇時兼職幫忙家中酒廠的事務，直到 1989 年，30歲的 Aloix Jr. 才決定整個全職投入酒廠工作。當時奧地利的葡萄酒產業正處於 1980 年醜聞的恢復期(請參考奇怪產區品酒會 – 奧地利)，雖然奧地利官方在1985 年訂定了許多法規與建立分級制度，但整體環境並不是太好。然而在 Aloix Jr. 的努力之下，自 1991 年 Kracher 的TBA 的名氣開始提升，並在1993 年的倫敦品酒會中打敗 Chateau d’Yquem，頓時之間獲得全世界的注目。再加上各大酒評單位的加持，Kracher 的聲勢便一舉登上高峰。Aloix Kracher Jr. 受到後人尊崇，我想原因不只是他被 Wine Magazine 五次選為年度最佳釀酒師，更因為他對當時孱弱的奧地利葡萄酒業有著不可抹滅的振興功績。

2007年12月5日，Aloix Jr. 以48歲壯年死於胰臟癌(所以2006年為Aloix Jr.最後一個年份)，不僅是 Kracher 酒廠的損失，更是奧地利與全世界葡萄酒業的損失，特別是貴腐酒。現在酒廠為 Aloix Jr. 的獨子Gerhard 接手，自小耳濡目染的新主人應該可以跟父親一樣繼續交出亮眼迷人的 TBA。

Kracher 酒廠釀製 TBA 的方法主要分兩類，ZdS (Zwischen de Seen 意為 “湖之間”)與 NV (Nouvelle Vague 意為 “新潮”)。傳統的ZdS用不銹鋼槽或者大橡木桶(500~3000L)陳年，產生酒精度較低(7~10%)，帶有柑橘陳皮的貴腐香氣。NV 的方式則類似Sauternes的做法，使用225L的標準法國橡木桶培養，產生酒精度較高(13%)，以及來自烘烤木桶的奶油、焦糖與花香調性香味。這些釀造與陳年的方式有一說是因為 Alois Kracher Jr. 和Chateau d’Yquem的前釀酒師Pierre Meslier，以及德國知名酒莊Egon Muller熟識的緣故，所以舊派與新派的釀製方式 Kracher 酒廠都應用得爐火純青。

Kracher 的 TBA 酒款都匯在酒標上以數字編號區分糖度，數字越高糖分越高，某些年份最高可達到 15。

Chardonnay TBA NV 2000 #3

Medium+ amber gold.

The nose cue the French barrque is used. Butter, apricot, oak, spicy vanilla (slightly decreasing), hazelnut (increasing), light honey.

Plate is rich with great high acidity. Peach, light honey, plastic glue, tangerine, almond. Ends with ripe apple note. Chewy mouthfeel.

Traminer TBA NV 2005 #3

Medium amber gold, slightly green hue.

Honey, mineral, bouquet, acacia, rose, cream, and hints of smoke and ginger.

Sweet palate with medium+ body. Honey, sugar, litchi, pineapple and light white pepper.

Scheurebe TBA ZdS 2004 #4

Medium+ gold.

Fresh medium nose includes rose, lily, spices, fresh grass, petrol, plastic glue and honey hint.

High acidity with pineapple note. Bouquet, peach, ginger, caramel sweetness. The lingering and interesting ending shows dry black date flavor.

Grand Cuvee TBA NV 1999 #6

Medium amber.

Light oxidized and savory flavor. Vegetables, caramel, coffee, nuts, apricot, gravel, ripe citrues.

Chewy mouthfeel with light savory note. Coffee, caramel, honey, orange, dry starfruits, light butter, and light chocolate hint (at end).

Grand Cuvee TBA NV 2000 #6

Medium- amber, gold hue.

Honey, mineral, over-ripe tangerine, light but lovely acacia bouquet (increasing), light vanilla. But slightly volatility note.

Chewy and sweet with medium body. Palate includes honey, acacia, wood barrel, vanilla, light peach, white pepper, tangerine skin, chocolate hint and dry sugar pickled fruits. Crisp acidity is quite high and very lingering.

Chardonnay TBA NV 1999 #7

Medium+ amber.

Oxidized flavor, like old wine. Nuts, ripe tangerine and coffee.

High acidiy, chewy mouthfeel. Chocolate, caramel, nuts, and over-ripe starfruit. Ending pops up a mixing hint of chocolate and tangerine.

Chardonnay Welschriesling TBA NV 1998 #7

Medium amber and ornage.

Light oxidized nose. Almond, honey, hazelnut, coffee, caramel, hazelnut, palstic glue, petrol, and coconut (很像椰子奶酥).

Chewy. Tangerine juice, caramel, chocolate, apricot, honey, pear, pineapple. Crisp acidity (medium-high).

Welschriesling TBA ZdS 2006 #9

Medium blonde. 酒石酸沉澱

Honey, acacia bouquet, light spicy grass. Active and pronounced nose.

Palate includes honey, acacia, light cream, litchi, peach, caramelized pineapple. High in acidity and chewy in mouth.

Welschriesling TBA ZdS 1998 #11

Medium amber and orange color.

Light oxidized nose, old and savory. Baked nuts, light tobacco, bouquet, raisin, light honey, wooden, light plastic pipe, coffee, caramel.

Palate contains tangerine, vanilla, caramel, honey, chocolate, light mushroom. The mouthfeel is not as chewy as I expected.

Kracher ZdS 2002 #12

50 % Scheurebe, 50 % Welschriesling.

Medium amber color. Light oxidized nose, wood, caramel, honey, grass, 仙草蜜

Palate shows good acidity with apple, orange, lemon and honey.

I think this one is the typical style of ZdS, pure and fresh noses and flavors, not too much nuts and barrel effects.

Scheurebe TBA ZdS 2006 #12

酒石酸沉澱

Medium blonde. Butter toast, orange, honey, rose, sugarcane, and litchi.

Not so chewy. Peach, honey, bouquet, litchi, pear, pineapple. Comfortable, coating, and very sweet.

義大利 Barolo v.s. Barbaresco 品酒會

Phanix — Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:01:11 +0000

2011/3/15. Tasted 2011/7/17 and 2011/7/31.

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

中文的部分是文抄公… XD

La Spinetta Barbaresco Starderi 2004

Giuseppe Rivetti(小名Pin)是阿根廷的義大利移民的第二代，他回到故鄉買了葡萄園、建立了酒廠，與他的妻子在1977年創立了LA SPINETTA(意為「山丘頂」)酒莊，它位於義大利Piedmont的Castagnole Lanze村莊，這裡是Moscato d’Asti產區的中心地帶。他認為此地的Moscato有相當良好的潛力，因此1978首先開始生產的就是單一葡萄園Biancospino的Moscato白酒，這在義大利是首開先河的創舉。1985年開始陸續推出了多款膾炙人口的Piedmont好酒，如三款單一園的Barbaresco和一款Barolo。2001年Rivetti家族更跨區進軍Toscana生產紅酒。由於表現非常卓越，LA SPINETTA已經被譽為義大利未來的葡萄酒界巨星。

LA SPINETTA最頂尖的酒款中有三款單一葡萄園的Barbaresco紅酒，其中Starderi園是以均衡優雅著稱。面南的坡向，面積6.5公頃，園中平均樹齡35-45歲，這些老樹提供了葡萄酒優異的濃度和深度。人工採收葡萄，發酵後在全新法國橡木桶中陳年20到22個月，不經過濾和澄清處理以保有原味。

它聞起來是濃郁又優雅的香氣，如紅、黑色漿果，和些許紫羅蘭；口感複雜飽滿，單寧紮實但不生硬，香味豐富多層次，帶有迷人的漿果、香料和巧克力香味。適合搭配燒烤的料理、有醬汁的紅肉、野味、或是中等口味的乳酪。它有25到30年左右的陳年潛力。

Wine Spectator – 93分; Wine Advocate – 93分

Medium garnet.

Black berry, volatility nose, tar, smoky leather, wood, light chocolate, light caramel and ripe apple hint. Caramel nose increases after breathing. Besides, elegant bouquet.

Licorice, plum, black chocolate. High tannin and a bit unbalanced alcohol note, too young for now, 5 more yrs aging might be proper.

La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2003

2000年Rivetti家族買下了Grinzane Cavour村8公頃的Campè葡萄園，同時還建造了一座設計非常藝術感的Campè酒莊 (於2003年落成)，開始釀造頂級的Barolo Campè紅酒。此園坡面朝南，種著Nebbiolo葡萄，平均樹齡達到35至45年，產量非常低。釀成的酒經過全新法國橡木桶陳年24個月，接著在不鏽鋼槽中熟成9個月，裝瓶後再窖藏12個月才上市；酒液不經過濾和澄清處理以保持其最佳風味。它呈現深邃又有生氣的紅寶石色澤，溫暖而豐富的香氣，可以聞到黑色漿果和香料般的氣味；口感上兼有力道和圓潤的感覺，並表現出優雅的均衡感，香味多層次而複雜，悠長的餘味可以感受到怡人的漿果香。

Wine Spectator雜誌給予這款酒95分的高度評價，這是所有2003 Barolo紅酒在這個雜誌獲得最高分的一款酒。

Medium garnet.

Old wooden case, dust, soy sauce pickled squash, light fresh black berry, wet grass court, smoky, light bouquet. Restrained in nose. After breathing, dense black berry, chocolate, cinnamon and tangerine skin.

Tannin is also high, but smoother than Starderi 2004. Soy sauce pickled squash, light bitterness of spices, licorice, chocolate hint, and hints of orange and coffee at the lingering end.

La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2004

Medium garnet, light ruby hue.

Nose is quite similar to 2003, but fresher. Leather, grass, berry, soil, plastic pipe glue, bouquet (香水百合, turns into Yulan Magnolia after 1 hr), clove, quince note.

Tannin is high and young. Light bitterness and salty flavors in palate. Besides, light over ripe apple, plum, clove, licorice and light salted veg.

Although Wine Spectator rated both 03 and 04 vintages for 95, I personally think 04 is better due to it’s elegant bouquet nose.

Fontanafredda Coste Rubin Barbaresco 2006

國王之泉酒莊(FontanaFredda)位於義大利西北部皮蒙區(Piemonte)，正好是蘭格(Langhe)地區的心臟位置。此地丘陵密佈，自古以來即是種植優質葡萄酒的重要區域，尤以濃郁豐厚的巴羅縷(Borolo)及巴巴瑞斯科(Barbaresco)著稱。1856年義大利的首任國王艾曼紐二世(Vittorio Emanele II)買下位於保護區內的國王之泉酒莊，釀造有「酒中之王‧王者之酒」之稱的巴羅縷紅酒，供皇家成員飲用。1878年國王駕崩後，嫡長子艾曼紐公爵(Count Emanuele di Mirafiore)及羅莎公爵夫人(Countess Rosa)繼承了這座莊園，決定除了為宮廷釀酒外，也同
時上市銷售。

土壤、氣候及單一的葡萄品種，為皮蒙地區打造出無一無二的風格，國王之泉酒莊佔地110公頃，多位於海拔200~400公尺間的山坡地帶，複雜的土壤成份，賦與葡萄酒絕佳的精緻質感與優雅氣質。此外，國王之泉酒莊相信唯有無污染的乾淨土壤，能栽培出純淨的葡萄，才能釀出精良的葡萄酒，因此進行了國王之泉天然有機計畫，葡萄園內不使用含化學成分的肥料、除草劑，並且在園區內設立生態保護區，以其永續生存。

被譽為皮蒙區最佳釀酒廠之ㄧ的國王之泉酒莊，是歷史與經典的代名詞，僅釀造DOC 及DOCG等級以上的葡萄酒，擁有傳統的宮殿房舍，以及自家經營的2間餐廳，周圍遍佈蓬勃發展的葡萄園及森林保育區，旗下酒款各具特色，是
不容錯過的義大利美酒。

義大利國王之泉魯賓‧巴巴瑞斯科紅葡萄酒選自Treiso、Neive及Barbaresco陽光最為充足的葡萄園，園區坐落朝南方或西南方的中等山坡上，海拔200到300公尺，土壤是中、新世紀地質層的含鈣泥灰質土。當成熟的葡萄送抵酒廠厚，立即去梗、破皮，使用精選酵母菌，在30 oC~32 oC的環境下發酵，同時不斷進行淋汁攪桶，以優化色澤與單寧的萃取。浸泡約10~12天左右，在冬季結束前進行乳酸發酵。而後倒入2000及3000公升的Allier橡木桶中熟成約12個月，有5~10年以上的陳年潛力。

Medium garnet, light ruby hue.

Wet rot leaves and soil, very low tone nose. Tar, a hint of bouquet, light berry. Soy sauce and anise flavored stewed seaweed (滷昆布) or salted veg (梅干菜).

The tannin is not as strong as La Spinetta. Velvet mouthfeel, even the tannin is still high. Coffee, chocolate, black berry, salted veg. Very lingering.

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2005

義大利國王之泉塞拉倫加‧阿爾巴‧巴羅縷紅葡萄酒是以葡萄園所在的村莊而命名。長久以來Serralunga d’Alba村內所生產的紅葡萄酒，因土壤、陽光等自然因素而具有獨特的品質，許多著名的巴羅縷紅酒皆產自於本村。葡萄採收後以傳統發酵方式釀造，在攝氏30 ~31度的不鏽鋼槽中進行15天的發酵期，在此期間內不斷淋汁以確保色素及單寧的萃取。而後放入225公升的小型橡木桶與2000公升的型橡木桶中各陳年12個月，裝瓶後持續熟成8~10個月。巴羅縷紅酒的酒精含量高，結構良好，酒體濃郁且厚重，禁得起時間的考驗，本款酒陳放6~8年後始進入試飲期，可陳放10~15年。

Medium garnet, some sediments.

Black cherry jam, tar, tobacco, light bouquet, wet old wood case, light vanilla, and ripe quince hint.

High acidity in palate, and the medium-high tannin is matured but still energetic. Licorice, black cherry, clove, black pepper, and light bouquet note. A bit bitterness at end.

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2004

義大利國王之泉酒莊維拉莊園‧巴羅縷紅葡萄酒是本酒莊最富聲望的葡萄園之一，生產新式風格，有良好保存潛力的巴羅縷紅酒。葡萄園位於巴羅縷村(Barolo)內占地3.19公頃的La Villa葡萄園，坐落於面朝東/東南方的山坡中段(海拔320~370公尺)，園內土壤佈滿石灰石，並含有豐富的磷、銅等礦物質。葡萄去梗破皮後，在32oC~33oC的溫度下進行發酵，並不停淋汁以確保單寧與色澤的萃取。隨著酒精含量的增加，可將溫度降至25oC，浸泡約20~30天，讓酒香更清新雅致。酒精發酵結束後，立即在20oC的環境下進行乳酸發酵。而後將葡萄酒置於225公升的橡木桶中陳放12個月(50%為新桶)，接著換桶，倒入2000和3000公伸的大行向木桶中繼續熟成12個月，讓酒箱與木桶風格能達到均衡協調。

Medium garnet, light brick hue.

Chocolate, leather, black berry, light pickled squash, violet (different to the bouquet nose of the 2005 vintage), and BBQ meat hint.

Palate is quit consistent to the nose, but not so dense and strong (why?). Black berry, violet, wooden spices, and a note of chocolate paste. Medium-high acidity, more matured tannin.

Sum-up comment: Personally think La Spinetta is better in general…