Bordeaux 老酒

2011/3/10 @孔雀。

未成年請勿飲酒,飲酒過量有礙身體健康。

Chateau Lynch Bages 1973

[column width=45% padding=5%] The long ageing makes some sediments in the medium+ brown. Old, but still splendid.

Bursting sugarcane sweetness and fully matured plum noses go with light vanilla, caramel and old wood hints. The typical black pepper and leather noses of Pauillac are more rounded and smoother after 30+ years ageing. Beneath smoky and tobacco noses elegantly decorate this old gentleman.

The palate is still well structure with medium acidity. The coffee and salty pickled prune flavors show in the early beginning with smoky tobacco and sugarcane hints. The fresh pepper aroma and flavors of dry berry and raisins still reminds me its potential of ageing. Fully matured medium tannin brings velvet mouthfeel in the lingering palate, with delicate licorice ending.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 長時間陳年的沈澱在中等的褐色酒液內。老,但仍閃閃發亮。

撲鼻而來的甘蔗甜味和成熟的李子香混著輕微的香草味道,還有焦糖跟老舊木頭的氣息。Pauillac區特有的黑胡椒和皮革味道經過長時間的陳年也變得更加溫潤。底層的煙燻及煙草味道將這瓶老酒襯托得更為優雅。

口感結構良好,酸度中等。咖啡與醃李子的味道和微弱的煙草與甘蔗首先出現。緊接著的新鮮胡椒類香味與乾燥莓類的味道似乎暗示著它依舊可以繼續陳放。完全成熟的單寧如絲絨般地呈現在悠長帶有甘草為的尾韻裡頭。
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Chateau Lalande-Borie 1978

In 1970, the owner of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugene Borie, bought a 30 hectare single plot vineyard from the other grand cru classe winery, Chateau Lagrange, to establish Chateau Lalande-Borie. Planting 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc on 25 hectare of this estate. The gravel surface with rough gravel and mud subsoil provides this vineyard with good drainage. High density planting (8500 plants/hectare) with good pruning and other technologies also contribute a lot to the wine quality.

Besides of Ducru-Beaucaillou and Lalande Borie, Jean-Eugene Borie really owned a huge wine empire, including Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Chateau Haut-Batailley and Chateau Ducluzeau. Among these wineries, Ducru-Beaucaillou also produced the second wine, La Croix de Beaucaillou, from 1995; Grand-Puy-Lacoste also had the second wine, Lacoste Borie.

François-Xavier Borie, the eldest child of Jean-Eugene Borie, inherited Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Haut-Batalley. He had a lot of wine making experiences as helping his father running Ducru-Beaucaillou; in fact, Xavier probably knew more about winery administration and wine making than his brother and sister. However, the other estates are now managed by his brother and sister, Bruno and Sabine, after Jean-Eugene's pass away in 1998. In 2002, Bruno change the wine label of Chateau Lalande Borie from white background to yellow background. Accordingly, the wine labels of Bruno's properties are all in yellow background style, and Xavier keeps the mono-style of white background on wine labels of Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Haut-Batalley.

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium+ brown color shows its old age.

Soy sauce pickled squash goes with cappuccino's espresso and cinnamon in the medium+ energetic nose. The wooden incense reminds me the Taiwanese traditional religion, the smoke of burning incense looks illusory but quite peaceful, just like the incense nose of this 30+ wine makes me feel comfortable. The brown sugar note shows up after breathing, goes with light caramel, green pepper and leather notes.

The medium-high acidity is crisp with orange flavors. Pickled plum, coffee, over ripe berries, caramel and licorice aromas are well balanced. Light ground sesame paste notes at the end of long length palate. Medium+ tannin and medium+ body.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 陳年後的褐色

充滿活力的香味,醬瓜、卡布奇諾、肉桂。燃燒的線香味道令人聯想台灣的傳統信仰,如同看著裊裊昇煙就讓人感到舒服安心。醒酒之後,粗紅糖與淡淡的焦糖、青椒、皮革味道。

略高的柳橙味酸度帶來清爽的口感。醃李子、咖啡、爛熟的莓類、焦糖還有甘草均衡地組合成口中香氣。悠長的尾韻裡頭有些芝麻醬的味道。
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Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1970

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium+ garnet with brown hue.

Medium smooth nose, still dense, no senescent hint, hard to believe it's 40 yrs old. Light licorice and active black pepper are beneath the ripe black berry and plum. These energetic noses make me hard to believe it's an 40 yrs old wine. Light leather, wet soil, spicy grasses and tar with hints of hazelnut, chocolate and tobacco. Shows some attractive caramel and coffee after 30 mins breathing.

Medium+ body. Chocolate and light black cherry palate. Light savory oxidization note. Dry leaves and dry soil. Licorice and light bouquet. Light black pepper spicy and light over ripe water melon note. Almost at the end of peak.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅帶點褐色色澤。

柔順但依舊紮實的香氣,沒有衰老的跡象,很難想像是陳放40年的老酒。在成熟的黑莓與李子香味之外還可以聞到淡淡的甘草與黑胡椒香,非常充滿活力。另外還有皮革、濕土壤、辛香草類、焦油與些微的榛果、巧克力與菸草味道。經過30分鐘的醒酒之後,出現了迷人的咖啡與焦糖香味。

中等酒體。喝起來有巧克力與黑櫻桃味道,另外帶有一點鹹鹹的氧化風味。乾樹葉與土壤,甘草以及淡淡的花香,還有淡淡的黑胡椒以及過熟西瓜水水的味道。個人覺得這支酒已經在巔峰期的尾端。
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Chateau Lafon-Rochet 1970

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Caramel, vanilla and bouquet. Pickled plum, light smoky leather, nuts and light volatility smell, light oxidized noses. Might be aged for too long time, the nose is not so dense, but a little loose instead.

Light salty savory flavors in the medium body palate. Medium+ acidity with over ripe tangerine flavor. Chocolate, caramel and over ripe berries (with light rotten note). The structure is still well at the beginning, but can not keeps very long. Flavors and aromas of palate drops quickly, so that I think its peak is just passed.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色

焦糖、香草與花香。醃李子、煙燻皮革、核果、些微的揮發性溶液味道、些微的氧化味道。也許是陳放太久,香氣有點鬆散不是那麼紮實。

入口也有些微鹹鹹的氧化風味,適中的酸度有著過熟橘子的味道。另外有巧克力、焦糖、過熟有點腐爛的莓類味道。口感的結構還是很好,只可惜入口後維持的時間不長,口中香氣維持的時間也是如此。個人覺得已經過了巔峰期。
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Chateau Montrose 1975

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Medium noses of pickled plum, chocolate, leather, and fur. Elegant wooden nose and light wet nose of melon skin are very impressive. However, the most surprising is the light rose with very light incense aromas. After breathing, caramel and creamy chocolate with burned wood and smoky leather aromas. After more breathing (about 1.5 hrs), light roasted sliced lean meat, light dry mushroom, light fresh wood, and ROSE ROSE ROSE. The rose nose is the most impressive and surprising, indeed "Mont"-"Rose".

Medium+ body with medium acidity and medium+ tannin. Over ripe plum, cinnamon, light coffee, light nuts and light bouquet. Medium+ length with licorice and light unripe guava note ending. The palate is good, but not as wonderful as the nose.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色

醃李子、巧克力、皮革與毛皮味道。優雅的木質香味,還有濕濕的瓜皮味道。但最令人驚訝的是淡淡的玫瑰花香與淡淡的線香味道。稍微醒酒之後,有焦糖跟奶油巧克力醬香氣,混著燃燒煙燻的木頭與皮革味道出現。經過1.5小時的醒酒之後,有燻肉乾、香菇味道,還有變得非常明顯的玫瑰花香。真不愧是 Mont"rose"

入口是過熟的李子、肉桂、些許巧克力與核果、花香。尾韻帶有甘草與一點不夠成熟的番石榴味道。喝起來其實也不錯,但沒有像香氣那麼迷人。
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Chateau Canon 1975

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Saint-Emilion premier grand cru classe, and its history can be traced back to 1716. The noses is not as strong as Montrose, and the aromas are also quite different. Medium- nose. The beginning is like a cup of light American coffee with brown sugar, with hints of cinnamon and leather. Some almond, flowers(light rose nose and others), pear and black pepper notes also appear, but not in a very strong manner. This one shows a "legeres" (means light and casual) style.

Medium body with medium acidity and medium velvet tannin. Light chocolate, light wooden spices, dry prunes, pickled prunes, light over ripe berries, light floral, peppers (black and chili). Medium length with licorice note ending.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色

Saint Emilion 的特級園 (premier grand cru classe),建立於1716年。香氣不像 Montrose 那麼強壯,且調性有些差異。開頭是淡美式咖啡混著粗紅糖的味道,還有一些肉桂與皮革。之後有興仁與花香(淡淡的玫瑰味道跟其他花類),不是很濃的梨子香味。呈現較為清淡的風格。

入口有淡淡巧克力、木質香料、乾梅子、醃梅子、淡淡的成熟莓果、淡淡的花香、黑胡椒、辣椒。尾韻有甘草味。
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