Phanix's Blog » Nebbiolo

義大利 Barolo v.s. Barbaresco 品酒會

Phanix — Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:01:11 +0000

2011/3/15. Tasted 2011/7/17 and 2011/7/31.

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

中文的部分是文抄公… XD

La Spinetta Barbaresco Starderi 2004

Giuseppe Rivetti(小名Pin)是阿根廷的義大利移民的第二代，他回到故鄉買了葡萄園、建立了酒廠，與他的妻子在1977年創立了LA SPINETTA(意為「山丘頂」)酒莊，它位於義大利Piedmont的Castagnole Lanze村莊，這裡是Moscato d’Asti產區的中心地帶。他認為此地的Moscato有相當良好的潛力，因此1978首先開始生產的就是單一葡萄園Biancospino的Moscato白酒，這在義大利是首開先河的創舉。1985年開始陸續推出了多款膾炙人口的Piedmont好酒，如三款單一園的Barbaresco和一款Barolo。2001年Rivetti家族更跨區進軍Toscana生產紅酒。由於表現非常卓越，LA SPINETTA已經被譽為義大利未來的葡萄酒界巨星。

LA SPINETTA最頂尖的酒款中有三款單一葡萄園的Barbaresco紅酒，其中Starderi園是以均衡優雅著稱。面南的坡向，面積6.5公頃，園中平均樹齡35-45歲，這些老樹提供了葡萄酒優異的濃度和深度。人工採收葡萄，發酵後在全新法國橡木桶中陳年20到22個月，不經過濾和澄清處理以保有原味。

它聞起來是濃郁又優雅的香氣，如紅、黑色漿果，和些許紫羅蘭；口感複雜飽滿，單寧紮實但不生硬，香味豐富多層次，帶有迷人的漿果、香料和巧克力香味。適合搭配燒烤的料理、有醬汁的紅肉、野味、或是中等口味的乳酪。它有25到30年左右的陳年潛力。

Wine Spectator – 93分; Wine Advocate – 93分

Medium garnet.

Black berry, volatility nose, tar, smoky leather, wood, light chocolate, light caramel and ripe apple hint. Caramel nose increases after breathing. Besides, elegant bouquet.

Licorice, plum, black chocolate. High tannin and a bit unbalanced alcohol note, too young for now, 5 more yrs aging might be proper.

La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2003

2000年Rivetti家族買下了Grinzane Cavour村8公頃的Campè葡萄園，同時還建造了一座設計非常藝術感的Campè酒莊 (於2003年落成)，開始釀造頂級的Barolo Campè紅酒。此園坡面朝南，種著Nebbiolo葡萄，平均樹齡達到35至45年，產量非常低。釀成的酒經過全新法國橡木桶陳年24個月，接著在不鏽鋼槽中熟成9個月，裝瓶後再窖藏12個月才上市；酒液不經過濾和澄清處理以保持其最佳風味。它呈現深邃又有生氣的紅寶石色澤，溫暖而豐富的香氣，可以聞到黑色漿果和香料般的氣味；口感上兼有力道和圓潤的感覺，並表現出優雅的均衡感，香味多層次而複雜，悠長的餘味可以感受到怡人的漿果香。

Wine Spectator雜誌給予這款酒95分的高度評價，這是所有2003 Barolo紅酒在這個雜誌獲得最高分的一款酒。

Medium garnet.

Old wooden case, dust, soy sauce pickled squash, light fresh black berry, wet grass court, smoky, light bouquet. Restrained in nose. After breathing, dense black berry, chocolate, cinnamon and tangerine skin.

Tannin is also high, but smoother than Starderi 2004. Soy sauce pickled squash, light bitterness of spices, licorice, chocolate hint, and hints of orange and coffee at the lingering end.

La Spinetta Barolo Campe 2004

Medium garnet, light ruby hue.

Nose is quite similar to 2003, but fresher. Leather, grass, berry, soil, plastic pipe glue, bouquet (香水百合, turns into Yulan Magnolia after 1 hr), clove, quince note.

Tannin is high and young. Light bitterness and salty flavors in palate. Besides, light over ripe apple, plum, clove, licorice and light salted veg.

Although Wine Spectator rated both 03 and 04 vintages for 95, I personally think 04 is better due to it’s elegant bouquet nose.

Fontanafredda Coste Rubin Barbaresco 2006

國王之泉酒莊(FontanaFredda)位於義大利西北部皮蒙區(Piemonte)，正好是蘭格(Langhe)地區的心臟位置。此地丘陵密佈，自古以來即是種植優質葡萄酒的重要區域，尤以濃郁豐厚的巴羅縷(Borolo)及巴巴瑞斯科(Barbaresco)著稱。1856年義大利的首任國王艾曼紐二世(Vittorio Emanele II)買下位於保護區內的國王之泉酒莊，釀造有「酒中之王‧王者之酒」之稱的巴羅縷紅酒，供皇家成員飲用。1878年國王駕崩後，嫡長子艾曼紐公爵(Count Emanuele di Mirafiore)及羅莎公爵夫人(Countess Rosa)繼承了這座莊園，決定除了為宮廷釀酒外，也同
時上市銷售。

土壤、氣候及單一的葡萄品種，為皮蒙地區打造出無一無二的風格，國王之泉酒莊佔地110公頃，多位於海拔200~400公尺間的山坡地帶，複雜的土壤成份，賦與葡萄酒絕佳的精緻質感與優雅氣質。此外，國王之泉酒莊相信唯有無污染的乾淨土壤，能栽培出純淨的葡萄，才能釀出精良的葡萄酒，因此進行了國王之泉天然有機計畫，葡萄園內不使用含化學成分的肥料、除草劑，並且在園區內設立生態保護區，以其永續生存。

被譽為皮蒙區最佳釀酒廠之ㄧ的國王之泉酒莊，是歷史與經典的代名詞，僅釀造DOC 及DOCG等級以上的葡萄酒，擁有傳統的宮殿房舍，以及自家經營的2間餐廳，周圍遍佈蓬勃發展的葡萄園及森林保育區，旗下酒款各具特色，是
不容錯過的義大利美酒。

義大利國王之泉魯賓‧巴巴瑞斯科紅葡萄酒選自Treiso、Neive及Barbaresco陽光最為充足的葡萄園，園區坐落朝南方或西南方的中等山坡上，海拔200到300公尺，土壤是中、新世紀地質層的含鈣泥灰質土。當成熟的葡萄送抵酒廠厚，立即去梗、破皮，使用精選酵母菌，在30 oC~32 oC的環境下發酵，同時不斷進行淋汁攪桶，以優化色澤與單寧的萃取。浸泡約10~12天左右，在冬季結束前進行乳酸發酵。而後倒入2000及3000公升的Allier橡木桶中熟成約12個月，有5~10年以上的陳年潛力。

Medium garnet, light ruby hue.

Wet rot leaves and soil, very low tone nose. Tar, a hint of bouquet, light berry. Soy sauce and anise flavored stewed seaweed (滷昆布) or salted veg (梅干菜).

The tannin is not as strong as La Spinetta. Velvet mouthfeel, even the tannin is still high. Coffee, chocolate, black berry, salted veg. Very lingering.

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2005

義大利國王之泉塞拉倫加‧阿爾巴‧巴羅縷紅葡萄酒是以葡萄園所在的村莊而命名。長久以來Serralunga d’Alba村內所生產的紅葡萄酒，因土壤、陽光等自然因素而具有獨特的品質，許多著名的巴羅縷紅酒皆產自於本村。葡萄採收後以傳統發酵方式釀造，在攝氏30 ~31度的不鏽鋼槽中進行15天的發酵期，在此期間內不斷淋汁以確保色素及單寧的萃取。而後放入225公升的小型橡木桶與2000公升的型橡木桶中各陳年12個月，裝瓶後持續熟成8~10個月。巴羅縷紅酒的酒精含量高，結構良好，酒體濃郁且厚重，禁得起時間的考驗，本款酒陳放6~8年後始進入試飲期，可陳放10~15年。

Medium garnet, some sediments.

Black cherry jam, tar, tobacco, light bouquet, wet old wood case, light vanilla, and ripe quince hint.

High acidity in palate, and the medium-high tannin is matured but still energetic. Licorice, black cherry, clove, black pepper, and light bouquet note. A bit bitterness at end.

Fontanafredda Serralunga d’Alba Barolo 2004

義大利國王之泉酒莊維拉莊園‧巴羅縷紅葡萄酒是本酒莊最富聲望的葡萄園之一，生產新式風格，有良好保存潛力的巴羅縷紅酒。葡萄園位於巴羅縷村(Barolo)內占地3.19公頃的La Villa葡萄園，坐落於面朝東/東南方的山坡中段(海拔320~370公尺)，園內土壤佈滿石灰石，並含有豐富的磷、銅等礦物質。葡萄去梗破皮後，在32oC~33oC的溫度下進行發酵，並不停淋汁以確保單寧與色澤的萃取。隨著酒精含量的增加，可將溫度降至25oC，浸泡約20~30天，讓酒香更清新雅致。酒精發酵結束後，立即在20oC的環境下進行乳酸發酵。而後將葡萄酒置於225公升的橡木桶中陳放12個月(50%為新桶)，接著換桶，倒入2000和3000公伸的大行向木桶中繼續熟成12個月，讓酒箱與木桶風格能達到均衡協調。

Medium garnet, light brick hue.

Chocolate, leather, black berry, light pickled squash, violet (different to the bouquet nose of the 2005 vintage), and BBQ meat hint.

Palate is quit consistent to the nose, but not so dense and strong (why?). Black berry, violet, wooden spices, and a note of chocolate paste. Medium-high acidity, more matured tannin.

Sum-up comment: Personally think La Spinetta is better in general…

義大利 La Spinetta, Nebbiolo 大集合

Phanix — Sun, 10 Apr 2011 07:55:23 +0000

被薛大姊點名了，所以趕快來寫 ~”~

2011/4/7, @孔雀.

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Vigneto Campe 2001 Reserva

Medium+ garnet with beautiful bloody red rim.

Pronounced nose starts with sugarcane sweetness flavor, and follows up with black cherry, light smoky nose, chocolate, black pepper, and light volatility note. After breathing, the nose turns into plant tone with dry woods, incense, and light bouquet. More breathing, about 2 hours, ink and light ammonia. Compare to the non-Reserva Campe tasted a few months ago, this Riserva Lion is not so delightful.

High tannin coats the whole palate as just drinking, though the mouthfeel is not so harsh as a young Barolo. (Well, anyhow, this is a 10 yrs old Barolo) The black berry and exuberant vanilla and coffee aromas are delightful, with the medium+ body and balanced medium-high acidity. Lingering palate, very good.

中等石榴紅，邊緣則帶有漂亮的寫紅色澤

一開始是明顯的甘蔗田香，接著是黑櫻桃、些微的煙燻、巧克力、黑胡椒，以及輕微的揮發溶液氣味。醒酒之後轉為植物性香氣，有乾木頭、些微花香。醒酒約兩個鐘頭後出現墨水和輕微的阿摩尼亞味道。跟之前喝非 Riserva 版本的 Campe 比起來，這頭 Riserva 的獅子比較不討喜一點。

大量的單寧在入口後就鋪天蓋地佔滿嘴巴，不過單寧的口感在10年陳年下已經沒有新釀的 Barolo 那樣咬舌了。黑莓、濃郁的香草與咖啡香氣。尾韻很長，偏高的酸度非常平衡，營造出很好的口感。

Vigneto Starderi 2003 Riserva

Medium garnet, very light coffee brown hue. Some floating sediment.

Concentrated nose. Exuberant sugarcane and Yulan Magnolia bouquet. Hints of tar, vegetables, grass, ripe black cherry. After breathing, the floral nose is denser and also shows light honey note. Besides, the fresh vegetable nose turns into buttery stir fried vegetable style.

Medium+ body, high tannin and medium+ acidity. The palate is not as abundant and complex as the preceding Barolo, but the sugarcane, tea leaves and cocoa aromas are still attractive. This Barbaresco is anticipatively not as strong as Barolo in palate, but the nose is really beyond my expectation. Excellent.

石榴紅，帶著很淡的咖啡褐色，有些懸浮的酒渣。

明顯且集中的甘蔗與玉蘭花，此外還有一些焦油、蔬菜、成熟黑櫻桃的味道。醒酒後花香變得更加明顯，同時出現淡淡的蜂蜜味道，還有新鮮蔬菜味道轉變成炒蔬菜，有了一些油脂的香氣。

口感不像前一款的Barolo紮實，但是甘蔗、茶葉、可可的香氣依然很迷人。雖然口感沒那麼好，但這款Riserva Barbaresco呈現的香氣真的是令人驚異！

Vigneto Gallina 2004

Medium garnet, light coffee brown hue.

Light mushroom, volatile plastic glue nose, cocoa, cranberry, slightly oxidization nose (just 7 yrs old, quite interesting.), skins of banana and honeydew melon, and cinnamon. After breathing, the cinnamon nose turns into mandarin medicine and then the mixture of tea leaves and bouquet. Besides, some pickled Chinese cabbage nose after 2 hours.

Tannin is high but sort of smooth. Light sugarcane and sweet flavors of dry berry, dry prune and raisin in palate. Light bitterness and licorice at the lingering ending.

石榴紅，帶著淡咖啡褐色

些許磨菇與揮發塑膠黏著劑味道，還有可可、蔓越莓、香蕉皮與香瓜皮，還有肉桂。有點奇怪的是，才七年的陳年時間居然跑出了一點點陳年氧化的味道出來。醒酒之後，肉桂味道漸漸轉變為中藥，再轉變為茶葉與花香混合的氣息。此外，醒酒約兩小時之後還出現了醃酸菜味。

單寧高，但已經可以算是柔順了。口中還有一些甘蔗與乾燥莓果的味道。尾韻悠長帶點苦味以及甘草香氣。

Vigneto Valeirano 2005

Medium- garnet, light coffee brown hue.

Black pepper, volatility nose of plastic glue (decreasing quickly), black berry, light tar. Shows caramel and light vanilla with a hint of oxidization (weird) after about 30 mins breathing. After 1 hour breathing, pencil black lead, candy of sarsi drink. After 2 hours, distinct ink nose.

Anticipatively high tannin and medium-high acidity. In general, the palate is consistent with the nose, and the palate also has light soy sauce. This consistency makes this wine delightful, comfortable and cozy from smelling to drinking.

中等偏淡石榴紅，帶著淡咖啡褐色

黑胡椒，塑膠黏著劑味道（很快消散），黑莓，一些焦油味。約30分鐘後出現焦糖與淡香草，也很詭異的出現淡淡氧化的味道。約一小時之後出現筆芯石墨味以及沙士糖。兩小時之後很明顯的墨水味。

整體來說口中表現跟聞到的氣味很一致，還多了一點醬油香。這種好氣味的一致性讓品飲這款酒的過程都很舒服愉悅。

Vigneto Bordini Barbaresco 2006

Medium- garnet, light coffee brown hue.

Wooden and vegetal spices. Wooden covers anise and clove; vegetal covers stalk and stem. As time goes by, vegetal nose turns into eucalyptus and then black currant leaves and finally soften with some creamy nuts; and wooden nose turns into bouquet and sandalwood. Some red bean paste after 2 hrs.

High tannin mouthfeel, especially at the end. Sugarcane sweetness flavor, wood, black currant leaves and light bitterness at end. Needs more time for maturing.

中等偏淡石榴紅，帶著淡咖啡褐色

木質與植物類味道。木質有八角與丁香，後轉為花香與檀香。植物味道一開始是梗味，然後變成尤加利葉，再變成黑醋栗葉子，然後柔化混了一些奶油核果香。另外有一些紅豆沙味道。

高單寧口感，特別是在尾韻更是感受強烈。甘蔗甜香，木頭與黑醋栗葉子，還有稍微的苦味尾韻。現在對這款酒來說太早了，需要更多時間成熟。

Vigneto Stardevi 2007

Medium- garnet, light ruby hue.

Baked cookie(lavender cookie), light smoky, creamy, raspberry, green pepper (turns into eucalyptus), citrus skin hint, and vanilla.

Tannin is dense but a little rough in the berry, eucalyptus and smoky tobacco palate. Not matured, need more ageing.

中等偏淡石榴紅，帶著淡紅寶石色澤

烤薰衣草餅乾、淡煙燻、奶油、覆盆子、青椒（轉為尤加利葉）、柑橘皮還有香草。

單寧紮實但有點粗糙。莓類、尤加利葉、煙草。很明顯的還沒成熟。

Wine Tasting @ Evergreen Laurel Collection (2009/08)

Phanix — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 10:50:45 +0000

After back to Taiwan, fewer wine tasting occassions I can join, that is not a good news for keeping my nose and cultivating this interest. However, Evergreen Laurel Collection co. provides wine tasting activities monthly, and this is my 2nd time. The first time is in the last month, but my tasting notes must lost in some mystery places, so I start writing down my tasting notes from the 2nd wine tasting at Evergreen Laurel Collection.

The main topic of this month is Ceretto, which is one of the largest wineries in Italy. They majorly produce so-called “3-B” wines, Barbera, Barolo and Barbaresco. Actually, Barbera is a grape variety, but Barolo and Barbaresco are regions. Ceretto is in the famous area “Piedmont (Piemonte)”, northwest of Italy, founded in 1930s and bursted their business in 1980s.

Italian wines (especially the reds) usually need longer maturing time, even though new wine making technologies are applied, we still need 4 or 5 years for mature. So, most wines today are still too young. For better mouthfeel, all bottles are opened 3~4 hours before tasting.

2008 Ceretto Barbera d’Alba Piana

100% Barbera, and the vineyard is in Alba Piana. Alba is one major town in Piemonte region, and Barbera is the most common variety in Piemonte region.

This wine provides rich aromas in nose, including plum, cherry and a little bit sweet flavor. After swirling, you can find the smell of raspberries. About 30 mins later, mineral is exposed in the glass.

Deep black and red. A little bit sweet at the beginning, and ends with beautiful after acid. Young body brings a lot of tannins but not velvet.

Need more decanting time before drink (I think 5 hrs maybe OK), need more patient to wait its maturation.

2005 Ceretto Barbaresco Asij

100% Nebbiolo, which is a common variety for Barbaresco and Barolo.

Barbaresco is at the northeast of Alba, and Barolo is at the southwest of Alba. The wines from these two DOCG areas have similar noses and palates. Some people said the difference is that Barbaresco is lighter and thinner, and Barolo gives stronger tannins and body. However, I think it depends on the terrior and the vinification process.

This wine brings a higher tone aroma in the glass (compare to the preceeding one), like flowers, dark chocolate and blackberry. As time goes by, the nose turns from higher tone to lower tone, the chocolate flavor becomes more obvious.

The color is red, with slight brick hue. Good body, begins with acid and ends with sweet. Palates include blackberry and black pepper. A lot of tannins but still young.

2004 Ceretto Barolo Zonchera

Also, 100% Nebbiolo. Interesting flavor, like melt chocolate mixed with cream. Black cherry, wet grass and white pepper in mouth.

Still too young, hold.

2000 Barolo Bricco Rocche PRAPO

This one is the most tasty red today. Licorice, blackberry and bright mums (Chrysanthemum) bouquet.

Apparent brick hue, especially at the rim.

Palates are blackberry, maple sugar, white pepper, spices and orange.

Good tannins and smooth mouthfeel, can still keep for a couple of years.

2005 Monsordo Langhe Rosso DOC

It’s a Bordeaux style red, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Nebbiolo (about 10%). The famous comic, 神之雫, mentioned this wine, and that makes this wine become popular in Japan and Taiwan. The black bottle also becomes one brand mark.

This wine is definitely not a standard Italian wine. Because the Italian wines need a long time to mature, Ceretto has some financial problem to pay their employees. So, they make this early matured, easy to drink and popular style wine.

Black currant, vanilla, chocolate and green bell pepper. For me, this one is good while comparing to other Bordeaux, but a little bit weird while tasting it with typical Italian wines.

2008 Ceretto I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano Moscato d’Asti DOCG

Litchi, litchi and litchi!!! Small and lasting bubbles (but not too much). The bubbles comes from the low temperature fermentation.

BTW, Taiwan is the best selling region of this wine. The reason is 茹絲葵 restaurant uses this wine, and you kwow this is a well-known dating restaurant. Besides, this wine has a nickname in Taiwan — 把妹酒. XD

However, for me, I think Korbel Moscato desert sparkling and 2007 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese are better than this one.