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	<title>Phanix's Blog &#187; white wine</title>
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		<title>Viognier &#8212; 1</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2012/02/05/1013/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 03:23:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 2010/10/31, this memorial-worthy wine tasting event is what I hosted in public. Viognier 為一古老的葡萄品種，在舊世界中著名的產區為隆河的 Condrieu，而怎麼傳入Rhone的，則有很多未經證實（也很難證實）的說法，同時其名稱的由來也是眾說紛紜。 有相傳是羅馬帝王普羅布斯(Marcus Aurelius Probus)在西元 281 年經由帝國擴張從Dalmatia傳入Rhone區，然後再流傳到其他地區與新世界國家。另一個說法是這個葡萄品種早年跟著Syrah一起被沿著 Rhone river 逆流運送，原本是打算送到 Beaujolais 去，但行經 Condrieu 時被 Culs de Piaux 這群盜匪劫走而留了下來。 至於名稱的由來，比較公認的說法是因為 Vienne 這個都市的關係。另一個說法是，在羅馬帝國時期這個葡萄品種叫做 Gehennae，而羅馬語的發音近似 Viognier，而 Gehennae 的意思是 &#8220;road to hell&#8221;，意指這個葡萄品種在種植照顧上難度不低。 2004年，UC Davis利用DNA檢定的方式，發現Viognier跟Freisa葡萄(主要在義大利 Piedmont)相近，而和Nebbiolo是遠親關係。 Viognier是不太容易種植照顧的品種，因為容易滋生粉狀霉菌，所以需要比較通風、乾燥的區域。另外，需要較長的熟成期，所以在太過溫暖的地方種植則難以發展出良好的香氣。另外採收的時間也很重要，太早採收則香氣不足，太晚採收則有容易產生油膩的口感的問題。 目前主要產區在北隆河，屬於舊式的風格Condrieu。而新式風格的，可在加州、澳洲，還有Languedoc-Roussillon找到。Viognier葡萄藤約在15~20年就可以達到很好的品質，而在北隆河有些葡萄園保有70年以上的老藤。 北隆河產區除Condrieu外，還有Chateau Grillet，此產區為獨佔(跟Romanee Conti一樣…)。另外南隆河也有種植，但是因為南隆河的酒（即便是白酒）多為混釀，所以要找到100% Viognier的葡萄酒較為困難。Condrieu的土壤主要為石灰岩，有些地方裡頭還含有雲母、水晶。 因為Viognier難以照顧，所以原本種植的面積並不大，但在米其林三星餐廳 LaPyramide 的主廚 Fernand [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
2010/10/31, this memorial-worthy wine tasting event is what I hosted in public.<br />
<img src="http://www.yalumba.com/library/grapes_viognier_pdf.jpg"><br />
<span id="more-1013"></span><br />
Viognier 為一古老的葡萄品種，在舊世界中著名的產區為隆河的 Condrieu，而怎麼傳入Rhone的，則有很多未經證實（也很難證實）的說法，同時其名稱的由來也是眾說紛紜。</p>
<p>有相傳是羅馬帝王普羅布斯(Marcus Aurelius Probus)在西元 281 年經由帝國擴張從Dalmatia傳入Rhone區，然後再流傳到其他地區與新世界國家。另一個說法是這個葡萄品種早年跟著Syrah一起被沿著 Rhone river 逆流運送，原本是打算送到 Beaujolais 去，但行經 Condrieu 時被 Culs de Piaux 這群盜匪劫走而留了下來。</p>
<p>至於名稱的由來，比較公認的說法是因為 <a href="http://g.co/maps/chryp" target="_blank">Vienne</a> 這個都市的關係。另一個說法是，在羅馬帝國時期這個葡萄品種叫做 Gehennae，而羅馬語的發音近似 Viognier，而 Gehennae 的意思是 &#8220;road to hell&#8221;，意指這個葡萄品種在種植照顧上難度不低。</p>
<p>2004年，UC Davis利用DNA檢定的方式，發現Viognier跟Freisa葡萄(主要在義大利 Piedmont)相近，而和Nebbiolo是遠親關係。</p>
<p>Viognier是不太容易種植照顧的品種，因為容易滋生粉狀霉菌，所以需要比較通風、乾燥的區域。另外，需要較長的熟成期，所以在太過溫暖的地方種植則難以發展出良好的香氣。另外採收的時間也很重要，太早採收則香氣不足，太晚採收則有容易產生油膩的口感的問題。</p>
<p>目前主要產區在北隆河，屬於舊式的風格Condrieu。而新式風格的，可在加州、澳洲，還有Languedoc-Roussillon找到。Viognier葡萄藤約在15~20年就可以達到很好的品質，而在北隆河有些葡萄園保有70年以上的老藤。</p>
<p>北隆河產區除Condrieu外，還有Chateau Grillet，此產區為獨佔(跟Romanee Conti一樣…)。另外南隆河也有種植，但是因為南隆河的酒（即便是白酒）多為混釀，所以要找到100% Viognier的葡萄酒較為困難。Condrieu的土壤主要為石灰岩，有些地方裡頭還含有雲母、水晶。</p>
<p>因為Viognier難以照顧，所以原本種植的面積並不大，但在米其林三星餐廳 LaPyramide 的主廚 Fernand Point（1897-1955，二十世紀最具影響力的法國料理大廚）大力提倡之下，一些著名餐廳也起而跟隨使用 Viognier 的酒款來佐餐。隨著 Condrieu 受到歡迎，種植者在 80 年代中期大舉擴張葡萄園的舉動使得管轄單位INAO不得不出面制止。這些事件使得這個原本幾乎被遺忘的產區獲得了重生。</p>
<p>在北美洲，1980年代美、加種植的面積增加很快，但目前主要都是在加州，特別是在Central Coast一帶。在澳洲的話，Yalumba是最大的Viognier釀製酒莊，主要產區為 Eden Valley，土地特色為黏土。</p>
<p>Viognier釀製出來的酒有很大的差異性，可以很像Muscat充滿荔枝的甜香，也可以有 Riesling一樣有花香、礦物味道，也會有像Chadonnay一樣的白桃、杏桃香味，也可以放入木桶中染上奶油、木頭香氣。</p>
<p>在新世界使用高比例新橡木桶來陳放 Viognier 的並不多，這樣的陳年方式似乎是延續了法國的陳放處理方式，但在 Condrieu 有一些所謂「新派」的酒莊與釀酒師(如 Yves Cuilleron)開始使用較多的新木桶來陳放 Viognier，雖然在木桶中的時間平均來說並不長（與 Chardonnay 相比），但是也為傳統果香花調為主的 Viognier 帶來不一樣的風味。</p>
<p>但不論釀酒或陳年的處理方式為何，一般來說 Viognier 的陳放實力是比較弱的，這主要是因為酸度通常比較不夠的關係，一般來說，超過10年的 Viognier 通常都已經開始走下坡，所以這個葡萄品種的酒還是趁新鮮快快殺掉吧。</p>
<p>由於香氣和口感都經常厚重濃郁，除了可以單獨作為開胃酒飲用之外，在搭配食物部分，也比其他白酒更適合伴隨濃厚醬料的菜式，比方帶有香料的印度烤雞、奶油醬料風味的螃蟹、龍蝦、干貝等。另外又因為酸度偏低又帶有香甜氣息，也適合搭配微辣的食物，例如泰國菜。</p>
<h2>Dyson GPR Viognier, 2004, McLaren, Australia</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://www.dysonwines.com/images/viognier_large.jpg" alt=""/><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium blond.</p>
<p>Medium+ nose with butter, oak and cream. Very similar to a oak-style Chardonnay.</p>
<p>Medium body. The palate contains oak wood, citrus, butter. Medium+ acidity. Maturing on lees contributes the creamy flavors indeed.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Dyson 酒莊葡萄園的土壤上有一層乾草覆蓋，這些是葡萄園除草時所遺留下來，藉以增加養分與保護土壤免於流失，以及避免土壤溫度過熱或過低的問題，使得葡萄藤根部不至於受創以及增加有利葡萄熟成的條件。<br />
Our Viognier grapes are grown with a thick straw mulch covering the floor of the vineyard. The natural breakdown of the straw increases the fertility and productiveness of the soil, cooling and nurturing the vine roots and enhancing<br />
the natural intense flavours of this variety.</p>
<p>全部手工疏果與摘採，另外利用棚子來控制陽光的曝曬程度，讓葡萄免於太快熟成而造成香氣風味不足。<br />
The vines are hand-pruned and hand-picked. The canopy is held up to shade the fruit and allow even ripening with limited exposure to the sun. We have developed this canopy management to allow the rich flavours of the Viognier to<br />
develop slowly.</p>
<p>三月底才採收以求最佳的熟成。在10度低溫環境下做榨汁，同時75%在小法國木桶中發酵，剩下的在不鏽鋼桶中發酵，發酵時間約3~4週。<br />
Harvesting takes place in late March at optimum ripeness and flavour. The fruit is then chilled to 10° centigrade before crushing and basket-pressing. The juice is cold settled with 75% fermented in mature French oak Barriques, with the balance fermented in stainless steel tanks. The pressings are fermented separately and then blended back to the free-run when fermentation is finished (the controlled fermentation takes 3 to 4 weeks to complete).</p>
<p>發酵完成後跟著酵母一起在木桶中熟成，以增添風味。<br />
After fermentation the wine is allowed to settle and start to mature on yeast whilst the unique Viognier flavours develop. Maturation takes place in French oak Barriques prior to bottling. Minimal handling and filtration are practised to ensure that the delicate Viognier flavours are protected at all times.</p>
<p>此款 Viognier 是非常特殊的單一品種酒款，具有熱帶水果、杏桃的風味，還有柑橘以及平衡的酸度。<br />
The Grande Privilege Reserve Viognier is a unique varietal wine, with stone fruit, tropical fruit and subtle apricot flavours, along with citrus characters and balanced acid on the palate.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Domaine de la Janasse, 2008, Vin de Pays de la Principaute d&#8217;Orange Viognier</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://www.lalandonne.oxatis.com/Files/28256/Img/07/photos-juillet-vin-300.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Some grapes are not from Condrieu, so this wine labeled with &#8220;Vin de Pays&#8221;.</p>
<p>Medium- blond.</p>
<p>Medium nose. lychee, longan, bouquet. But the nose can only sustain for about 45 mins.</p>
<p>White peach and light barrel note go with light chewy mouthfeel. Medium- acidity. Personally think this is a good deal, considering the quality and price (<US$20). Good with spicy pickled vegetable.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
建立於1967年, Aime Sabon至今仍在酒廠指導一切, 不過主要工作是由他畢業於釀酒科系的兒子Christophe Sabon處理, Christophe於1991年畢業便回家裡從事家族企業, 現在Christophe的妹妹在讀完釀酒科系後也回到家裡幫忙, 主要負責訂單以及銷售事務.</p>
<p>酒莊擁有55 ha葡萄園, 產量不算小, 其中15 ha屬於Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cotes-du-Rhone除了紅白酒, 粉紅酒外, 還有Villages Terre d’Argile以及Cuvee Les Garrigues, 在Vin-de-Pays中甚至有100% Viognier酒款. Chateauneuf-du-Pape紅酒有Chaupin以及老藤VV兩的Cuvee, 其中Chaupin是由100% Grenache釀製, 其中包括近百年的老藤, Parker評其2001年份時說這支酒有勃根地Grand Cru的感覺, 煞是驚人.</p>
<p>100% Viognier – Condrieu selection - boxes harvest - pneumatic pressing - elevage : on lees with stirring during 6 months including 25% of new barrels, 5000 bottles per year.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Yalumba 2008 Viognier, Eden Valley, Australia</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1051818x.jpg"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
medium- straw with green hue.</p>
<p>Medium+ nose. Lychee, lemon, peach, apricot, mineral, sugarcane, light vanilla. Shows a bright, active and tropical image.</p>
<p>Medium+ acidity, with light honey, apricot, nuts and stony mineral in the chewy palate. Good.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
約 60% 在木桶中，其餘在不銹鋼槽中進行發酵，酵母為葡萄本身所附著或來自周遭環境，沒有額外添加其他的酵母。在木桶中熟成十個月，期間有攪桶來增加風味的複雜度以及奶油風味和口感。Yalumba 另有一款較高階的 Viognier 叫 Virgilius，而沒有拿去裝瓶 Virgilius 的 Viognier 酒也會一起混在這一個等級的 Viognier 裝瓶。<br />
After harvest about 60% of the fruit was gently pressed directly to barrels, the rest to a stainless steel tank. The juice was handled with passive oxidation, allowing the wine to ferment with indigenous yeasts, natural to the vineyard. The wine was left on lees, which with regular batonnage for 10 months, increased the complexity and creaminess of the wine and further heightened the palate weight. At blending, the barrels of wine that have not made The Virgilius blend, here also included in the assemblage.</p>
<p>2008年份風格細緻且香味濃郁，顏色淡金黃帶有綠色色澤。杏桃、忍冬、柳橙精油香氣，口感濃郁豐富且攸長，有白桃、與杏桃味道以及柑橘類尾韻。陳年之後可以期待出現更濃郁的杏桃與香料氣味，以及蜂蜜及烤土司香。<br />
The 2008 vintage has created delicate and aromatic Viognier wines. The colour is pale gold with green highlights, with a nose of pure aromas displaying apricot nectar, lifted honeysuckle and orange oil perfume. The palate is long, rich and luscious, with intense stone fruit &#8211; particularly white peach and apricot flavours, finishing with an aromatic citrus freshness. This wine will continue to grow and develop in the bottle, firstly showing enhanced apricots and spice, then after a couple of years, honey flavours and toast.</p></blockquote>
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Ironstone 2007 Viognier, Sierra Foothill, CA, USA</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://www.ironstonevineyards.com/assets/images/wines//pictures/CA_Viognier_NV.jpg"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Pale straw.</p>
<p>Lychee, green mango, bouquet.</p>
<p>Medium body, peach, lychee and grape fruit skin. Good with squid.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Tasting Notes:<br />
Our classic yet refined Viognier has a tropical bouquet of white peaches with a hint of honeysuckle. Its intriguing aroma gives way to rich mango with subtle notes of lychee fruit. This refreshing white lingers on the palate with its long, full finish.</p>
<p>Vineyard Notes:<br />
The Viognier grape has flourished in Lodi, California with a classic Mediterranean climate of warm, dry summers amid rich fertile soil. These grapes exhibit intense varietal character due to modern trellis systems combined with deficit irrigation practices.</p>
<p>Production Notes:<br />
During crush, these hand-picked grapes arrived at the winery in the early morning hours where a combination of old and new reductive winemaking techniques were used to create this flavorful wine. This technique preserves the naturally abundant exotic aromas that Viognier is known for. To preserve these aromas, the juice was then cold fermented and maintained in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.</p>
<p>Winemaker Notes:<br />
Our classic yet refined Viognier has a tropical bouquet of white peaches with a hint of honeysuckle. Its intriguing aroma gives way to rich mango with subtle notes of lychee fruit. This refreshing white lingers on the palate with its long, full finish.</p>
<p>Food Pairing:<br />
Executive Chef James Lehman Recommends ~ The crisp fruitiness and acidity in this wine make it a delightful aperitif with an avocado and grapefruit salad or fried risotto cakes and lemon aioli. In addition, Viognier has more body than most white wines and is an excellent pairing to grilled thyme rubbed pork tenderloin and citrus chicken.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Yalumba 2007 Virgilius Viognier, Eden Valley, Australia</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://static3.wine-searcher.net/images/labels/54/33/yalumba-the-virgilius-viognier-eden-valley-australia-10155433.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium- straw with green hue.</p>
<p>Medium nose (increasing). Lychee, vanilla, oak, grass, nut, fig, wet curb/sidewalk.</p>
<p>Medium+ body and acidity. Mineral, citrus, candy, apricot, pear, lemon skin, and light spicy note of grass. Can obviously distinguish the difference between this and the entry level Viognier.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Hand picked grapes were whole-bunch pressed directly to barrels, and the juice handled with passive oxidation. The wine was fermented in mostly mature French oak barriques, by a population of naturally occurring and differing species of yeast indigenous to the environment of the vineyard. In these &#8220;wild&#8221; or &#8220;feral&#8221; ferments each yeast played a small and subtly different part in the development of the wine, creating layers of richness, complexity, fine textures and flavours. After fermentation the wine was aged on lees with regular batonnage for 11 months to further heighten the palate weight and increase the complexity and flavour generosity. At blending only the finest barrels were chosen.</p>
<p>The 2007 season created a wine with both finesse and opulence, with layers of complexity and lusciousness. On the nose the aroma is intense with white peaches, apricots and ginger. The palate is lifted with ginger spice, layered mineral texture and complex apricots along with white stone fruit flavours. The trademark Viognier lusciousness of the palate is clearly evident in this wine which is unctuous and complex while at the same time showing restraint that should ensure good cellaring for at least 3-4 years.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Tardieu-Laurent, 2004, Condrieu</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://7.blog.xuite.net/7/d/e/b/18307279/blog_975947/txt/27137967/9.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Pronounced nose. Creamy, oak, lemon skin, vanilla, bouquet. A bit similar to the Dyson, but much more elegant.</p>
<p>Medium+ acidity. Pear, grapefruit, ripe apple, creamy, light vanilla, and light fir tree. Very elegant.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Terroir : Sant Pierre de Boeuf<br />
Age of vines : Over 40 years<br />
Alcohol : 13.5 %<br />
Livestock : new Allier barrels and trunks<br />
Bottling : A hand with a slight filtration</p>
<p>Comment by Michel Tardieu: We are very pleased to be able to increase quantities this wine without lowering quality. The wine is equal to itself very well expressing his land without the exuberance of Viognier often tiresome after a few sips, justified criticism made by many lovers of great white wines.</p>
<p>酒商Tardieu-Laurent設立於創辦人Michel Tardieu的故鄉普羅旺斯區，一個名叫Loumarin的小鎮。他放下優渥的公職投身釀酒事業，對葡萄酒沒有高度的熱忱是辦不到的。另一位創辦人是大名鼎鼎的布根地酒商 Dominique Laurent，他對木桶培養的獨特見解早已遠近馳名，日本人稱他為「木桶的魔術師」。儘管現已很少參與酒廠事務，在釀造與風格上多少留有他的影響。釀酒顧問Philippe Cambie的加入使得風格更加濃郁而耐久藏。</p>
<p>1997年才成立的酒商，短短的十年間能夠名揚國際，主要歸功於Michel Tardieu對隆河谷地區的全盤掌握與熱忱。旗下酒款涵蓋全區，雖然自家沒有葡萄園，卻與當地最佳的酒農合作，購得優質葡萄園的收成與原酒。因為長期的配合，直接給予伙伴們種植、採收與釀造上的建議與期望，從最源頭就開始掌控品質。<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Yves Cuilleron, 2008, Les Chaillets, Condrieu</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://1.blog.xuite.net/1/8/f/d/21168735/blog_1283431/txt/32184856/22.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Pronounced nose. Over ripe pomelo, candy, lychee, straw, light honey, and jasmine bouquet.</p>
<p>Medium body. Lemon, mineral, over ripe pomelo, peach, grapefruit skin. Medium+ acidity. Lingering.</p>
<p>Personally consider this is the best of the day.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Origin : the best and oldest vineyards in the area.Steep, exposed south / southeast, located on terraces above the town of Chavanay. &#8220;The Chaillet&#8221; is not a place name, but said local name comes from the terraces.<br />
‧ Soils : muscovite granite.<br />
‧ Grape varieties : Viognier.<br />
‧ Viticulture : Vines planted in high density, 8000 / 10000 feet per hectare. Without insecticide or pesticide, the number of treatments is limited depending on the weather, very little fertilizer is exclusively organic, respect for the balance of soil and plant. Control of force and yields, thinning, green harvest for better ripening.<br />
‧ Vinification : the grapes are harvested at full maturity and sorted manually. Pressing, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in barrels, with natural yeasts.<br />
‧ Livestock : 9 months in barrels, on lees, no racking, with regular stirring.<br />
‧ Degree of Alcohol : 13.5% Vol.<br />
‧ Production : approx. 1800 bottles.<br />
‧ Agreement : shellfish, scallops brochette Jacques lemongrass.</p>
<p>Les Chaillets is the local name for the steepest terraces behind Chavanay, their vines old, needless to say, and their soil made up of something known as Muscovite granite. Aging in barrel for nine months, and 30% of the barrels are new.</p>
<p>WS 93 : Superbright and high-toned, this is pure and driven, with enticing Cavaillon melon, lemon verbena, star fruit, Jonagold apple and fennel notes, giving way to a quinine- and mineral-filled finish that brings you back for more. Drink now through 2012.</p>
<p>JR 17 : Scented spicy white fruits, broad in the mouth, creamy but with an attractive savoury mineral depth and length.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Renaissance 2002 Viognier, North Yuba, CA, USA</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://ei.isnooth.com/wine/Renaissance-Viognier-1998.f_e_8.wine_360559_detail.jpeg"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium+ gold.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Honey, apricot, mineral, starfruit, honey, light petrol hint, sugar-pickled fruits.</p>
<p>Medium+ acidity. Dry. Citrus, starfruit, licorice hint, grapefruit, sugar-pickled fruit.</p>
<p>A bit pass the peak.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
Location<br />
Planted between 1975-82, the Renaissance vineyard is located in the Sierra Nevada foothills at altitudes of 1700-2350 feet (Yuba County). This is a real mountain vineyard: the vines are planted on slopes with gradations that vary from gentle to breathtaking; the complex topography offers all possible sun exposures and a myriad of micro-climates. The basic quality and character of our Estate Bottled wines distinctly express this terroir.</p>
<p>Soil<br />
The red top soil layer (“Dobbins Loam” and decomposed granite) is very shallow, rich in iron, and poor in organic matter. The subsoil is very rocky Gabbro/Diorite from volcanic/ocean-floor origin, mixed with quartz, multiple mineral-rich variations of clay, and volcanic ash.</p>
<p>Climate<br />
Continental, with cold, rainy winters (51” yearly average), very dry summers with hot days and cool nights caused by cool air that wafts down from the higher Sierras, and long, dry falls that usually extend into late November, early December.</p>
<p>Viticulture<br />
Unusually for California, our vines are “own-rooted” (i.e.not grafted onto any rootstock). Varieties are planted in carefully selected micro-climates and soil combinations to maximize their potential. We practice organic viticulture, and use no pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides other than elemental sulfur. The combination of poor soils and old vines limits our yields to 1.0-1.5 tons per acre on average. (In comparison, Napa Valley averages 5 tons per acre – see http://www.napanow.com/wine.statistics.html .)</p>
<p>Character<br />
Our unique terroir leaves its unmistakable signature in each of our wines. Regardless of the variety, all tend to be concentrated, intensely flavored, with pure fruit aromas, a marked spicy/minerally side, and a powerful structure. Consequently, Renaissance wines have outstanding aging potential, and increase in complexity and harmony over the course of many years in the bottle. Even our white wines age exceedingly well, developing rich honeyed, nutty flavors with extended cellaring.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Hobbs 2006 Viognier, Barossa Valley, Australia</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://0.blog.xuite.net/0/d/7/2/20914398/blog_2289813/txt/44192812/6.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Honey, mango skin, mineral, plastic pipe, and bouquet.</p>
<p>Light sweet. pineapple, citrus, honey, sugarcane, and bouquet.<br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-one-half wpcol-last">
酒莊主人Gregg Hobbs與Allison Hobbs，與現任釀酒師Peter Schell，現在已經是澳洲膜拜酒明星，雖僅有用小小的15公頃葡萄園，但卻握有Barossa Valley最老的幾個Shiraz葡萄園，其中有些還是19世紀末左右所種植，葡萄園採用Biodynamic自然動力法，葡萄數量較少，酒廠有能力以人工整枝以及採收，讓生長期的葡萄可以獲得最多的日照。</p>
<p>澳洲Barossa Valley總是給人過於炎熱的印象，太多的陽光，太多的糖分，太少的酸度，但哈柏斯Hobbs酒莊卻恰好位在Barossa最涼爽的 區域，土層屬於粘土與岩石腐土的混合，易於保存水份，這對陽光強烈的Barossa是一件再好不過的事，你可以說他的葡萄酒很不Barossa，不肥不膩，展現此區前所未有的複雜細緻，但充足陽光與恰當剪枝卻又讓酒體集中濃郁，非常有架構，這就是哈柏斯Hobbs酒莊得以被酒評家冠上膜拜酒莊的秘密。</p>
<p>使用法國北隆河產區最特別的Viognier白葡萄，酒莊在手工採收Viognier葡萄後，將葡萄自然風乾，去除部分葡萄的水份，讓Viognier葡萄的杏桃、辛香料與花香更為集中，酒體飽滿醇厚，酒莊原本產量就不多，風乾的動作讓葡萄汁數量更少，是獨特手法出產Viognier甜酒，極為特別，風味迷人多變，甘美多汁的金黃色Viognier甜酒，滿載蜂蜜與杏桃香氣，細緻刻劃的甜美酒體，有非常好的平衡度與層次感，為375ml瓶裝，年產量僅有2000瓶，是膜拜酒莊Hobbs的得意作品，值得細細品嚐。</p>
<p>Winemaker&#8217;s Notes:<br />
Picked from a 1.5 acre patch of our own Viognier planted in 1988. All of our dessert wines are made the same way. We do not use Botrytis infected fruit or fortification in any of our dessert wines. After hand picking the grapes are placed into trays and semi dried. This drying process highlights and intensifies natural flavours and aromas. Giving a very long clean and crisp finish combined with wonderful fruit.</p>
<p>Wine Tasting Notes:<br />
Deep burnished gold colour. Lively complexity of aromas in this wine. Bursting of citrus blossom, green limes and pineapple, cumquats and marmalade following through on the palate. Silky smooth mouthfeel with an enduring finish. This great variety is rich and complex with subtle jasmin and citrus blossom aromas. The palate is crisp clean and inviting with rich flavours of limes, pineapple and tangelos. Great mouth-fill and luscious extended flavours.</p>
<p>Wine Advocate：90 points.<br />
The 2006 Viognier is light gold-colored with a slightly muted nose of apricot and peach. It is fat and ripe in the mouth with layered moderately sweet flavors. Greg and Allison Hobbs vineyards are contiguous with Chris Ringlands Three Rivers vineyards; furthermore, Ringland is a consultant to winemaker Peter Schell. The Hobbs sweet wines are made with minimal intervention and are bottled unfined and unfiltered.</p>
<p>James Halliday：94 points.<br />
Deep gold less luscious than the Semillon, but does have apricot and honey varietal nuances and arguably better balance 9.4% to 2012.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
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		<title>Decanter 2011 World Wine Award Tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2012/01/04/1011/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2012/01/04/1011/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Jan 2012 01:39:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cabernet Sauvignon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chile]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Decanter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Durif]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Malbec]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Petit Syrah]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pinot Gris]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Riesling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sauvignon Blanc]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sparkling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sparkling wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrah]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[智利]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[氣泡酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[澳洲]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[紅酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[紐西蘭]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[阿根廷]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=1011</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2011/12/30, 當天很忙，所以只有速記 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 Vina Casablanca Blanc de Blancs NV Casablanca Valley Small and mild bubble in the medium blonde-gold color. Yeast, baked nuts, citrus and fig flavors with a bit chewy texture (w/o bubbles). Waimea Estates Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2009 New Zealand (得獎年份為 2010) Light blonde. Typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Black currant leaves, lemon [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2011/12/30, 當天很忙，所以只有速記</p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-1011"></span><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891575/" title="382804_10150438926961058_642506057_9046942_1531113778_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6626891575_708ecaf953_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="382804_10150438926961058_642506057_9046942_1531113778_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891631/" title="396070_10150438927476058_642506057_9046944_710691332_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6626891631_844df28567_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="396070_10150438927476058_642506057_9046944_710691332_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891689/" title="408997_10150438927686058_642506057_9046946_160058931_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/6626891689_bf3efd47d7_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="408997_10150438927686058_642506057_9046946_160058931_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891733/" title="409248_10150438959636058_642506057_9047040_551961946_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6626891733_7bcf4a1789_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="409248_10150438959636058_642506057_9047040_551961946_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891771/" title="401573_10150438928326058_642506057_9046952_261854573_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/6626891771_12378265d9_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="401573_10150438928326058_642506057_9046952_261854573_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891811/" title="388600_10150438928911058_642506057_9046954_198188501_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/6626891811_9fbd6b06d0_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="388600_10150438928911058_642506057_9046954_198188501_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891865/" title="380563_10150438959121058_642506057_9047039_2129383864_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7018/6626891865_ca04792f0b_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="380563_10150438959121058_642506057_9047039_2129383864_n"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6626891917/" title="397168_10150438958701058_642506057_9047037_2037618670_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7147/6626891917_d532a4d131_m.jpg" width="180" height="240" alt="397168_10150438958701058_642506057_9047037_2037618670_n"></a></p>
<h2>Vina Casablanca Blanc de Blancs NV Casablanca Valley</h2>
<p>Small and mild bubble in the medium blonde-gold color. Yeast, baked nuts, citrus and fig flavors with a bit chewy texture (w/o bubbles).</p>
<h2>Waimea Estates Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2009 New Zealand (得獎年份為 2010)</h2>
<p>Light blonde. Typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Black currant leaves, lemon and light melon skin. Medium-high acidity.</p>
<h2>Waimea Estates Spinyback Pinot Gris 2006 Waimea Plains, Nelson New Zealand (得獎年份為 2009)</h2>
<p>Light+ blonde. Surprising Pinot Gris due to its distinct petrol/mineral nose, very different to those from Alsace and Italy. Good.</p>
<h2>Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2010</h2>
<p>Hand picked Riesling contributes the elegant flavors and acidity balance. Begin with the mineral and orange flavored acidity. Shows honey and bouquet while the temperature goes higher. Good.</p>
<h2>De Bortoli Deen Vat 1 Durif 2008 South Eastern Australia Australia (得獎年份 2009)</h2>
<p>Personally think this is the best one of today. This Durif/Petit Syrah shows deep ruby color with purple rim, and nose includes jammy fruit flavors, leather, and black pepper hint. Although the tannin is high and young, the mouth feel is still comfortable. The medium+ acidity, tannin and the dense fruity shows its aging potential (I think 5 yrs aging is not a problem). Good.</p>
<h2>VinEcol Mendoza 2010 Oak Reserve Malbec (得獎年份為2009)</h2>
<p>Although I think the viticulture style of this winery is a bit over, this long maceration Malbec do show the charming bouquet. Nose also includes over-ripe black berries, vanilla, and leather. The tannin mouth feel is a bit rough.</p>
<h2>Bird in Hand Shiraz Two in the Bush 2010 Mt. Lofty Ranges, South Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2009)</h2>
<p>Similar to the 2008 Durif, but this Shiraz shows bigger structure, fuller body and denser nose. Leather, berry jams, bouquet and light butter. Too early to drink, need at least 3 yrs aging.</p>
<h2>Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Margaret River, Western Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2007)</h2>
<p>Not as energetic and active as other Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, this one shows a implicit and undertone style. Leather, light green pepper, berries, oak barrel. The palate is very lingering&#8230; Good. </p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>吃飯閒聊品酒會</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2012/01/03/1010/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2012/01/03/1010/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 05:47:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bordeaux]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[California]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Flora]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gewurztraminer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Margaux]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Napa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Riesling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sparkling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sparkling wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[USA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Washington]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[加州]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[氣泡酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[紅酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[美國]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[英國]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[華盛頓州]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=1010</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2010/10/9 忘記是為什麼四五個人聚在一起吃飯喝酒，地點是令人緬懷的孔雀 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 Chapel Down Tenterden England NV Sparkling Rose Chateau Paveil de Luze 1998 Holy cow Riesling 2006 Schramsberg Cremant 1988 Demi-sec]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2010/10/9<br />
忘記是為什麼四五個人聚在一起吃飯喝酒，地點是令人緬懷的孔雀</p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-1010"></span></p>
<h2>Chapel Down Tenterden England NV Sparkling Rose</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://www.herculeswines.co.uk/images/wine_full_photo/_MG_5378.jpg" width="220"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-three-quarter wpcol-last">
Very Light pink color. Lots of active bubbles, and lasting for more than 1 hr.</p>
<p>Nose is light. Flower, egg white, black cherry.</p>
<p>Orange acidity flavor, light candy. The mouth feel of bubbles is a bit sharp. High acidity.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Chateau Paveil de Luze 1998</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_cCsxFM8cg78/SxqgSKAF0JI/AAAAAAAAA3I/mQAIY8PKbxM/s320/Ch+Paveil+De+Luze.jpg"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-three-quarter wpcol-last">
Cru Bourgeois, Margaux.</p>
<p>Deep ruby with garnet hue. Can&#8217;t believe this is a 12 yrs old.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Pickled squash (decreasing), wet soil (decreasing), vegetable (decreasing), rotten leaves (decreasing), with chocolate, black currant. After about 0.5-1 hr breathing, shows sweet black cherry and flower noses, just like typical Margaux.</p>
<p>Medium- body with medium- acidity and tannin (matured and velvet). Dry but with a bit fruity sweetness. Chocolate, black berry, light flowers. Medium length. At its peak!!<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Holy cow Riesling 2006</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://pic.pimg.tw/wineschool/4a66b560ab5c7.jpg" width="250"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-three-quarter wpcol-last">
Light blond.</p>
<p>Medium mineral (decreasing), honey (increasing), lemon, and peach. Some petrol nose is light and decreasing.</p>
<p>Palate has citrus, light green apple, and petrol flavors. Medium- acidity and body. Off-dry and medium- length.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div></p>
<h2>Schramsberg Cremant 1988 Demi-sec</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-quarter">
<img src="http://ww1.bn-image.com/images/bn/160/148234.jpg" alt="" /><br />
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<div class="wpcol-three-quarter wpcol-last">
Schramsberg is a sparkling wine winery in Calistoga (northwest of Napa, belongs to Napa AVA), and it was founded by a Germany family. This sparkling wine house follows the traditional Champenoise method to produce great wines, especially for their vintage sparklings. This Cremant is made by Flora (a cross of Sémillon and Gewürztraminer developed at UC Davis) with a small portion of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.</p>
<p>Deep tawny color.</p>
<p>Medium to pronounced nose. Caramel sauce, cake, coffee, milk, chocolate. All relate to desserts.</p>
<p>The body is medium to full, still keeps its structure (well, no bubbles after 20+ yrs). Low to medium acidity. Ripe apple, apple pie, citrus, chocolate, caramel and coffee.</p>
<p>Very Brilliant.<br />
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		<title>Chardonnay Tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/12/29/1004/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/12/29/1004/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 10:19:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[勃根地 Grand Cru]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bourgogne]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[California]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chablis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chile]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Montrachet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[USA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[勃根地]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[智利]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[法國]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[澳洲]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[美國]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=1004</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2011/12/19, @品集生活 燈光偏昏暗，外觀顏色部分或許不準確 / Light is not so good for a tasting event, so the appearance might be incorrect. 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 The name, Chardonnay, probably comes from &#8220;Chardonnay&#8221; village in Maconnais region of Bourgogne. Actually, this variety is a crossing of Gouais Blanc and Pinot (the parent of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc). The viticulture record [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2011/12/19, @品集生活<br />
燈光偏昏暗，外觀顏色部分或許不準確 / Light is not so good for a tasting event, so the appearance might be incorrect.<br />
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/Chardonnay_Moldova.JPG" width="800"><br />
未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-1004"></span></p>
<p>The name, Chardonnay, probably comes from &#8220;Chardonnay&#8221; village in Maconnais region of Bourgogne. Actually, this variety is a crossing of Gouais Blanc and Pinot (the parent of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc). The viticulture record of Chardonnay can be tracked back to the 1st or 2nd century. Chardonnay is the 2nd widest planted variety all over the world. The 1st variety, Airen, mostly planted in Spain, is usually used for making spirits and low quality wines.</p>
<p>The origination of Chardonnay variety does not comes from &#8220;Chardonnay&#8221; village, and the very beginning planting area of this variety may not be in this village. Though, the viticulture of Chardonnay became common after the 6th or 7th century, and the name &#8220;Chardonnay&#8221; was not common until 19th century. The &#8220;burst&#8221; of planting Chardonnay is from 1980-1990, and this &#8220;burst&#8221; is majorly in USA and Australia. This burst also makes USA is the #1 largest planting area of Chardonnay, and Australia takes the 2nd place (France is #3). The planting area of Chardonnay in USA comes from 7200 ha in 1980 to 40000 ha in 2005 (overpass France in 1988).</p>
<p>Chardonnay is an early bud and quick maturing variety, so the great regions of this variety are usually in colder areas. Skin is thin, so mold can more easily affect it. Besides, Chardonnay also has more Millerandage (berry size differs a lot, due to the blooming time difference) problems than other variety. However, Millerandage sometimes provides wine makers small berry full of flavors to making great wine.</p>
<p>Chardonnay also contains more diacetyl (丁二酮，屬二酮類), so it is also a good candidate variety for making noble wines. Diacetyl can contributes smooth/chewy mouthfeel and flavors into the wines. The best soils for Chardonnay is chalk soil, clay, and limestone. Chalk soil contains more carbonic acid, which is good for producing the acidity of grapes. Clay is usually not a good soil for vines, due to its high density. However, the roots of Chardonnay is more &#8220;powerful/mighty&#8221; than other varieties, so clay can help Chardonnay to construct the flavors and improve the density of flavors. Limestone soil has the advantages of clay and chalk soil.</p>
<p><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/ff/ChardHarvest.jpg" width="800"></p>
<p>Chardonnay is a high yield variety. 8000 L/ha can still provide normal quality, although great Chardonnay wines are usually from vineyards of about 5000 L/ha. (For other varieties, 5000 L/ha is high yield). When the weather gets warmer and berries get into the maturing period, the acidity decreasing speed and the sugar increasing speed of Chardonnay are faster than other varieties. Thus, many wine makers do not use &#8220;full mature&#8221; berries. In colder regions, the Chardonnay usually contributes green fruits, such as green apple and green lemon. In warmer region, pineapple, peach, banana, and other tropical fruit flavors are more common.</p>
<p>In Chile, Sauvignon Blanc is probably a more famous variety, but Chardonnay is actually the #1 planted variety, which occupies more than 7500 ha vineyards. Chile Chardonnay was similar to USA style before, but turns into less oak barrel style in these years. High acidity and green citrus flavors are the major style of Chile Chardonnay.</p>
<p>Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are two major communes in Cote de Beaune. Chassagne-Montrachet borders on the south of Puligny-Montrachet. Chassagne-Montrachet Chardonnay usually gives higher-tone and more oak barrel effects than Puligny-Montrachet. Puligny-Montrachet usually gives undertone image and green citrus.</p>
<p><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/Chassagne-Montrachet_%28C%C3%B4te-d%27Or%2C_Fr%29_%C3%A9glise.JPG" width="800"></p>
<p>Aloxe commune is the renowned commune producing Chardonnay in Cote de Nuits, and Corton-Chalemagne is the Grand cru in this commune. More smoky, acidity, strong and firm.</p>
<h2>Shaw+Smith M3 Chardonnay 2009</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593157823/" title="IMG_20111220_003916 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6593157823_92b88e9d59.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_003916"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Light straw.</p>
<p>Light oak nose, cedar, light cream, lemon, green apple, mineral and dry grass nose.</p>
<p>Medium- body. Grass, green lemon, grapefruit skin, light cedar, and mineral palate. High acidity and lingering.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2009</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593157945/" title="IMG_20111220_004202 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6593157945_d41d83a830.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_004202"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Light straw with blonde hue.</p>
<p>More wood nose than Shaw+Smith. Orange, light hazelnut, wood,mineral, butter, apple, light bouquet and honey, vanilla hint, light eucalyptus, pickled peach, and light flint.</p>
<p>Medium body. Grapefruit skin, orange, pineapple, and clove hint. More barrel. Citrus skin bitterness at the end. Medium-high acidity.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Concha y Toro Amelia Chardonnay 2008</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158047/" title="IMG_20111220_004240 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7147/6593158047_5c8b150ea2.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_004240"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium- blond.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Wet grass, light black currant leaves, light smoky, wet wood, light nuts, almond, light pineapple, bouquet perfume, butter and vanilla (increasing).</p>
<p>Medium body. Green lemon, butter. Medium-high acidity. The palate is not as interesting as the nose.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>B. Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon 2008</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158151/" title="IMG_20111220_004941 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7035/6593158151_c653600369.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_004941"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium blond.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Light toast, light honey, green lemon, sidewalk, and caramel red bean sauce.</p>
<p>Medium- body. Green lemon, yogurt, grass, mineral, citrus skin, unripe orange juice. High acidity, firm and sharp mouth feel.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrieres 2000</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158313/" title="IMG_20111220_005035 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6593158313_3c49b41db7.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_005035"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium- gold-blond.</p>
<p>Pickled prune, light oxidized nose (decreasing), light savory (decreasing), coconut cheese bread, baked chestnut, light caramel, and vanilla (increasing). Old wine nose at the beginning, but shows some young energy after breathing.</p>
<p>Medium body. Over ripe pineapple, mineral, walnut, and cream.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Vincent Girardin Corton-Chalemagne 2009</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158435/" title="IMG_20111220_005108 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/6593158435_df00218321.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_005108"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium- blond.</p>
<p>Mineral, mint, peach, flower, dry grass, cedar, green apple, light orange, vanilla, and charming bouquet (like rose!) in nose.</p>
<p>Medium body. Dry grass, mineral, citrus. High acidity.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>F. Gagnard Criot-Batard-Montrachet 2006</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158577/" title="IMG_20111220_005137 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6593158577_170fb0f420.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_005137"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium blond with gold hue.</p>
<p>Bouquet, light walnut,butter, baked sliced meat, mineral, light banana, peanuts, light animal fur, and burned rosemary.</p>
<p>High acidity and medium+ body. Orange, citrus, wood. The palate is not as complex as the nose, but still good and very concentrated.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
<h2>Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet 2003</h2>
<p><div class="wpcol-one-third">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/6593158679/" title="IMG_20111220_005229 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6593158679_f5e53d8d3a.jpg" width="200" alt="IMG_20111220_005229"></a><br />
</div><br />
<div class="wpcol-two-third wpcol-last">
Medium blond with gold hue.</p>
<p>BUTTER!!!!, buttery toast, peach, hazelnut.</p>
<p>Very lingering palate. Grass, butter, oak barrel, flower.<br />
</div><div class="wpcol-divider"></div> </p>
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		<title>Wine Spectator Top 100 California Chardonnay Tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/09/18/977/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/09/18/977/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:35:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[California]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chardonnay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Top100]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[USA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wine Spectator]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WS]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[加州]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[美國]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=977</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2011/5/27 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康。 Wine Spectator 每年都會選出當年度上市酒款的 Top 100，評選標準除了品質之外，還包含了是否容易取得。所以，名列 Top 100 的酒款不見得是分數 95+ 的怪物，但至少有一定品質，同時很容易就能買到，我個人認為這是個不錯的選酒指南，而且品質都有其水準。不過，台灣的葡萄酒界常拿這個話題來炒作，被選入的酒款常常瞬間價格水漲船高，而失去了 Wine Spectator 原本挑選 Top 100 的美意。(比方說這次品飲的某款 Chardonnay，國外售價差不多在30米金，但在台灣價格卻近乎2000新台票，進口商也賺太大了&#8230;) 加州的 Chardonnay 也有許多酒款入選過 WS Top 100，且水準不遜於 Bourgogne 與 Chablis。說到加州的 Chardonnay，通常大家先聯想到的是 Napa Valley AVA，但因為在加州當了將近一年的酒鬼交換研究人員，反而覺得 Santa Cruz Mountains AVA 的 Chardonnay 更是令人驚艷。 Santa Cruz Mountains 雖然比 Napa Valley 要更南邊，但以其較高的海拔與靠海的條件，所以在較長的日曬時間之外還能夠擁有較冷涼的氣候，提供 Chardonnay 一個可以有高糖分與酸度與香氣的成長環境。高品質的 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 在木桶的使用上很類似 Bourgogne Grand [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2011/5/27</p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康。<br />
<span id="more-977"></span></p>
<p>Wine Spectator 每年都會選出當年度上市酒款的 Top 100，評選標準除了品質之外，還包含了是否容易取得。所以，名列 Top 100 的酒款不見得是分數 95+ 的怪物，但至少有一定品質，同時很容易就能買到，我個人認為這是個不錯的選酒指南，而且品質都有其水準。不過，台灣的葡萄酒界常拿這個話題來炒作，被選入的酒款常常瞬間價格水漲船高，而失去了 Wine Spectator 原本挑選 Top 100 的美意。(比方說這次品飲的某款 Chardonnay，國外售價差不多在30米金，但在台灣價格卻近乎2000新台票，進口商也賺太大了&#8230;)</p>
<p>加州的 Chardonnay 也有許多酒款入選過 WS Top 100，且水準不遜於 Bourgogne 與 Chablis。說到加州的 Chardonnay，通常大家先聯想到的是 Napa Valley AVA，但因為在加州當了將近一年的<del style="color:red;">酒鬼</del>交換研究人員，反而覺得 Santa Cruz Mountains AVA 的 Chardonnay 更是令人驚艷。</p>
<p>Santa Cruz Mountains 雖然比 Napa Valley 要更南邊，但以其較高的海拔與靠海的條件，所以在較長的日曬時間之外還能夠擁有較冷涼的氣候，提供 Chardonnay 一個可以有高糖分與酸度與香氣的成長環境。高品質的 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 在木桶的使用上很類似 Bourgogne Grand Cru 的風格，而不會像 &#8220;Oaked&#8221; Chardonnay 那樣過於濃郁，所以可以在木桶創造的風味之外讓人感受到礦石、果香與花香的豐富性。</p>
<p>這次的品酒會主要的重點在加州的 Chardonnay，特別是 Santa Cruz Mountains 產區的酒款，此外，為了做比較，另外有一瓶 Chablis 來做為冷冽 Chardonnay 的對照以及一瓶來自日本的酒款來做為比較。</p>
<h2>Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2005</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1041994x.jpg"><br />
Medium+ blonde, green hue.</p>
<p>Medium+ nose. Light spicy, barrel, light acacia, light fruit candy (increasing), orange, honey, mineral and flint. After breathing, aspalagus, maple sugar and light black currant leaves.</p>
<p>Medium body with high acidity. Citrus, light apricot, light honey and coffee.</p>
<h2>Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2006</h2>
<p><img src="http://wine.findthebest.com/sites/default/files/811/media/images/mount_eden_vineyards_chardonnay_2006.jpg"><br />
Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Butter, light dry fruit and fresh mint at the beginning of the medium+ nose. Grape fruit, light cream and distinct mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note after breathing, the same to the 05 vintage, this probably is the character of Mount Eden.</p>
<p>High acidity. Apricot, pineapple, light spices and light mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note. (grapefruit, cream cheese, spices, eucalyptus leaves. licorice@end)</p>
<p>Personally dislike the black currant leaves note, but I have to say these two vintages are good from a wine tasting view.</p>
<h2>Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay 2007</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1046999x.jpg"><br />
Medium- Blonde with green hue.</p>
<p>Medium- nose. Pineapple, beneath light honey, light peach, and increasing noses of vanilla, smoke, flint and light cream. (fresh oak barrel, spicy grasses, light petrol)</p>
<p>High acidity and medium+ body in palate. Mineral, pineapple, light cream and increasing smoke note. Interesting anise note at the end. (barrel, veg, light dry fruit)</p>
<h2>Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Home Ranch Chardonnay 2005</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1041918x.jpg"><br />
For more stories of &#8220;Home Ranch&#8221;, plz check my past tasting note.</p>
<p>Medium blonde with green hue.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Distinct honey, hazelnut, light citrus, 甜豆沙, 黑糖紅豆漿汁, mineral (sidewalk), light chocolate, beneath chocolate. After breathing, toast, 冬瓜茶, 仙草蜜, spicy vanilla. Attractive, charming, sweet and elegant flavors and aromas. (citrus, and plastic pipe)</p>
<p>Honey, light spicy, 水煮竹筍, 豆沙, light ripe orange(, dry fruits, white pepper, roasted nuts, walnut) in the palate. High acidity. So good, just like a Bourgogne Grand Cru.</p>
<p>個人認為這款 Home Ranch 跟下一款的 Mount Bello 是這天最好的&#8230; <img src='http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif' alt=':D' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<h2>Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Mount Bello Chardonnay 2006</h2>
<p><img src="http://static3.wine-searcher.net/images/labels/13/03/ridge-vineyards-monte-bello-chardonnay-santa-cruz-mountains-usa-10141303.jpg"><br />
(沒有 06 的照片，拿 07 的&#8230; )<br />
Medium- blonde with green hue.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Light lemon, ornage, light acacia, light wood cask, and toast.</p>
<p>Lingering high acidity. Citrus, apricot, mineral, mango, white pepper, almond and acacia. Simple in palate flavor types but very concentrated.</p>
<p>Good and elegant, but I think it must be much better after 3-5 yrs.</p>
<h2>Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2006</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1036261x.jpg"><br />
Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Medium- nose. Orange, apricot, mineral, nuts, creamy, bouquet and white pepper.</p>
<h2>Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2007</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.klwines.com/images/skus/1045022x.jpg"><br />
Medium blonde with notable green hue.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Chestnut, light hone, pineapple, baked bread, light peach, light creamy butter, light orange and a bit gravel.</p>
<p>Dry fruit, apricot, wood, grapefruit and butter in the high acidity palate.</p>
<p>These two Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay are a bit similar to &#8220;Oaked&#8221; Chardonnay, but keep the mineral terroir and are not so over in the oak notes.</p>
<h2>Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudevey 2006</h2>
<p><img src="http://www.domaine-laroche.fr/an/images/vaudevey_max.jpg"><br />
Medium- blonde.</p>
<p>Medium- nose. Honey, mineral (light flint), orange, grapefruit skin.</p>
<p>Medium body. High acidity. Orange, apricot, lemon, light honey, light dry fruit.</p>
<p>This Chablis is lighter in both nose and palatel, comapre to preceding California Chardonnay wines.</p>
<h2>登美の丘ワイナリー登美2004</h2>
<p><img height="400" src="http://thumbnail.image.rakuten.co.jp/@0_mall/wine-takamura/cabinet/ikou_20100319_009/img10343896265.jpg"><br />
神の雫酒款。表現很好，不過 7000 日幣的價格不太便宜，如果可以在 1500 台幣內的話會很殺&#8230; @@&#8221;<br />
Medium- blonde.</p>
<p>Medium nose. Boiled popcorn, steel (金屬斷面), 豆沙, creamy, light savory note.</p>
<p>The palate contains barrel, cream, popcorn, mineral, nuts, and 豆沙. Very high in acidity and light savory.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>奇怪產區品酒會 &#8211; 白色才情‧紅色熱情</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/08/04/925/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/08/04/925/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Aug 2011 16:50:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[好吧，我用了張雨生的梗 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 台灣葡萄酒與樹生酒莊 在二次世界大戰結束日本撤離台灣之前，日本人已經有飲用葡萄酒的習慣，中華民國政府也想藉此來賺一些錢，同時讓土壤相對較貧瘠的后里外埔一帶可以有農業產出，所以從民國42年開始，引進葡萄開始種植。民國46年起，公賣局開始跟葡萄農打契約來收購葡萄，並委託農會推廣。目前酒莊主人洪吉倍的祖父洪樹生在當年是擔任農會理事，也身體力行帶頭種植。每年葡萄農所收成的葡萄都送至台北酒廠(即後來的華山藝文特區，現今的華山1914文創園區)釀酒，民國 66 後，釀酒的業務轉至南投酒廠(62年開始籌建試生產)。 民國85年，南投酒廠收購完與農民契約的最後一批葡萄之後，葡萄農與公賣局的合作正式劃下句點，當時有許多葡萄農便放棄葡萄種植，改種植食用葡萄或其他水果，但當時已經接手家中大業的洪吉倍因為不捨所以將葡萄藤繼續留下。但在民國91年廢止菸酒專賣制度前，這些原本種植釀酒葡萄的葡萄農私下釀酒就變成了只能做不能說的事情，如同台灣其他的果農私自釀酒一樣。 所幸，民國87年立法院開始審查菸酒管理法，讓民間釀酒合法化露出一線曙光。後來88年發生921大地震之後，政府為了改善受災農民的經濟情況，同時為民間釀酒產業鋪路，於是透過行政院九二一震災災後重建委員會之農業振興計畫專案補助，由行政院農委會農村酒莊輔導小組在各地選定補助對象，以各地農特產品釀酒為主，開始輔導成立農村酒莊，而樹生酒莊也是當初被選定的其中一個。雖然時至今日，被輔導成立的農村酒莊不完全都是以各地的農特產品來釀酒，但這都是後話。 民國90年，樹生酒莊的酒莊建築與設備初步完工，開始申請使用營運，但這過程也歷經波折，直至92年才通過使用執照，正式營運。而睜一眼閉一眼的政府也從95年開始嚴加取締沒有執照的私釀酒莊，但其實台灣對於葡萄酒的法規仍和國外有一段差距。比方說，台灣法規規定葡萄酒的酒標任何的更動都視為一款不同產品的標示，必須經過申請才能上市販售，這也意味著一段耗時的過程。所以除了早期生產的酒款有在酒標上標示年份之外，樹生酒莊目前的酒款都只有在背標上標示裝瓶日期。 特級紅酒 從背標上的裝瓶日期(2010/12/15)看來，應該是2010或2009年份。 葡萄的品種是黑后葡萄(Black Queen)，為 1927 年在日本所研發出來的新品種，1937 年發表，為 Bailey 與 Golden Queen 混種而成，除了適合製酒之外也可以食用，在台灣主要種植在台中后里與外埔一帶，另外在彰化二林也有種植。 將黑后葡萄以正統葡萄酒釀法製作，並不像一般台灣的葡萄酒在發酵過程加入糖份。呈現略微偏淡的石榴石色澤，香氣並不是很濃烈，有著黑莓、梅子、綠茶，另有些微的生肉野味。入口帶著淡淡的甜度，並沒有太多的單寧，所以很容易入口，就這點上還是有些台灣葡萄酒的在地風格。口中有著梅子酸甜的味道，另外夾有一點點的青椒氣息。整體來說跟一般新舊世界的紅葡萄酒都不太一樣，有著台灣本土的「酸、甘、甜」的風格。 原本樹生酒莊還有生產一款「頂級紅酒」，名為「蒲桃（葡萄的古名）酒」。但因台灣法規規定酒類（蒸餾酒與葡萄酒）的甲醇含量必須在2000ppm（對乙醇）以下，而這款頂級紅酒無法達到這樣的標準，所以就無緣在市面上出現，或許需要再幾年的努力才有機會吧。（按：台灣法規對於除了葡萄之外的釀造酒類甲醇含量標準是 4000ppm） 冰釀甜酒 品種為金香葡萄（Golden Muscat）。此品種為1915年由康乃爾大學(Cornell University)與紐約州農改場合作，將 Muscat Hamburg 與 Diamond 這兩個品種混種而得。 在製作這款酒之前，先把採收的葡萄冷凍再榨汁，以提高糖份與濃縮香氣。顏色呈現淡稻稈色。香氣有冬瓜糖、黃金糖、蜂蜜、鳳梨醬，還有淡淡的柑橘與類似芥末的植物味道。入口略甜，蘋果、桃子、黃金糖，酸度偏低。 舞月天 也是金香葡萄釀製，和前者不一樣的是，這款酒採用了波特酒(Port)的作法，在尚未完全發酵完成前，就加入烈酒來殺死酵母菌，以保留糖份。烈酒的部分是尚未進木桶的白蘭地，所以並沒有改變原本白酒的顏色。 中等偏淡金黃色。桃子、荔枝、西瓜香氣，還有淡淡的香菇、花生味道。口中亦出現荔枝香氣，淡淡的蜂蜜與核果味道，因為烈酒帶來的辛辣感則讓人聯想到黑胡椒與辣椒。 巴卡斯 Bacchus 以白蘭地作法製成，然後進木桶熟成。 中等偏淡的茶色。焦糖、蜂蜜、醃燻、烘烤核果類香氣。入口除了蜂蜜、烘烤核果、類似辣椒的辛辣感之外，還有很奇妙的人蔘與八角香味。 約旦 Zumot winery 葡萄酒源起高加索山區，然後往南傳往中東地區，後來經腓尼基人由海路傳入歐洲，所以嚴格來說，位處中東的約旦應該有著相當久遠的葡萄酒歷史。 Zumot Group 是約旦的一個酒業與食品集團，最早是從 1954 年開始，不過那時候 Zumot 家族的主人 Bulos 只是以種植葡萄，然後賣給別人當作主業。 直到1987年，Zumot家族才開始酒類的生產與販售，不過這時候仍然是以蒸餾酒類為主。直到1995年，Zumot家族才開始在 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>好吧，我用了張雨生的梗</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/5678776299/" title="R0018915 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5101/5678776299_afd49b0fdc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="R0018915"></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/5937052421/" title="R0019017 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6025/5937052421_f544b87d71_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="R0019017"></a></p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-925"></span></p>
<h2>台灣葡萄酒與樹生酒莊</h2>
<p>在二次世界大戰結束日本撤離台灣之前，日本人已經有飲用葡萄酒的習慣，中華民國政府也想藉此來賺一些錢，同時讓土壤相對較貧瘠的后里外埔一帶可以有農業產出，所以從民國42年開始，引進葡萄開始種植。民國46年起，公賣局開始跟葡萄農打契約來收購葡萄，並委託農會推廣。目前酒莊主人洪吉倍的祖父洪樹生在當年是擔任農會理事，也身體力行帶頭種植。每年葡萄農所收成的葡萄都送至台北酒廠(即後來的華山藝文特區，現今的華山1914文創園區)釀酒，民國 66 後，釀酒的業務轉至南投酒廠(62年開始籌建試生產)。</p>
<p>民國85年，南投酒廠收購完與農民契約的最後一批葡萄之後，葡萄農與公賣局的合作正式劃下句點，當時有許多葡萄農便放棄葡萄種植，改種植食用葡萄或其他水果，但當時已經接手家中大業的洪吉倍因為不捨所以將葡萄藤繼續留下。但在民國91年廢止菸酒專賣制度前，這些原本種植釀酒葡萄的葡萄農私下釀酒就變成了只能做不能說的事情，如同台灣其他的果農私自釀酒一樣。</p>
<p>所幸，民國87年立法院開始審查菸酒管理法，讓民間釀酒合法化露出一線曙光。後來88年發生921大地震之後，政府為了改善受災農民的經濟情況，同時為民間釀酒產業鋪路，於是透過行政院九二一震災災後重建委員會之農業振興計畫專案補助，由行政院農委會農村酒莊輔導小組在各地選定補助對象，以各地農特產品釀酒為主，開始輔導成立農村酒莊，而樹生酒莊也是當初被選定的其中一個。雖然時至今日，被輔導成立的農村酒莊不完全都是以各地的農特產品來釀酒，但這都是後話。</p>
<p>民國90年，樹生酒莊的酒莊建築與設備初步完工，開始申請使用營運，但這過程也歷經波折，直至92年才通過使用執照，正式營運。而睜一眼閉一眼的政府也從95年開始嚴加取締沒有執照的私釀酒莊，但其實台灣對於葡萄酒的法規仍和國外有一段差距。比方說，台灣法規規定葡萄酒的酒標任何的更動都視為一款不同產品的標示，必須經過申請才能上市販售，這也意味著一段耗時的過程。所以除了早期生產的酒款有在酒標上標示年份之外，樹生酒莊目前的酒款都只有在背標上標示裝瓶日期。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>特級紅酒</h2>
<p>從背標上的裝瓶日期(2010/12/15)看來，應該是2010或2009年份。</p>
<p>葡萄的品種是黑后葡萄(Black Queen)，為 1927 年在日本所研發出來的新品種，1937 年發表，為 Bailey 與 Golden Queen 混種而成，除了適合製酒之外也可以食用，在台灣主要種植在台中后里與外埔一帶，另外在彰化二林也有種植。</p>
<p>將黑后葡萄以正統葡萄酒釀法製作，並不像一般台灣的葡萄酒在發酵過程加入糖份。呈現略微偏淡的石榴石色澤，香氣並不是很濃烈，有著黑莓、梅子、綠茶，另有些微的生肉野味。入口帶著淡淡的甜度，並沒有太多的單寧，所以很容易入口，就這點上還是有些台灣葡萄酒的在地風格。口中有著梅子酸甜的味道，另外夾有一點點的青椒氣息。整體來說跟一般新舊世界的紅葡萄酒都不太一樣，有著台灣本土的「酸、甘、甜」的風格。</p>
<p>原本樹生酒莊還有生產一款「頂級紅酒」，名為「蒲桃（葡萄的古名）酒」。但因台灣法規規定酒類（蒸餾酒與葡萄酒）的甲醇含量必須在2000ppm（對乙醇）以下，而這款頂級紅酒無法達到這樣的標準，所以就無緣在市面上出現，或許需要再幾年的努力才有機會吧。（按：台灣法規對於除了葡萄之外的釀造酒類甲醇含量標準是 4000ppm）</p>
<h2>冰釀甜酒</h2>
<p>品種為金香葡萄（Golden Muscat）。此品種為1915年由康乃爾大學(Cornell University)與紐約州農改場合作，將 Muscat Hamburg 與 Diamond 這兩個品種混種而得。</p>
<p>在製作這款酒之前，先把採收的葡萄冷凍再榨汁，以提高糖份與濃縮香氣。顏色呈現淡稻稈色。香氣有冬瓜糖、黃金糖、蜂蜜、鳳梨醬，還有淡淡的柑橘與類似芥末的植物味道。入口略甜，蘋果、桃子、黃金糖，酸度偏低。</p>
<h2>舞月天</h2>
<p>也是金香葡萄釀製，和前者不一樣的是，這款酒採用了波特酒(Port)的作法，在尚未完全發酵完成前，就加入烈酒來殺死酵母菌，以保留糖份。烈酒的部分是尚未進木桶的白蘭地，所以並沒有改變原本白酒的顏色。</p>
<p>中等偏淡金黃色。桃子、荔枝、西瓜香氣，還有淡淡的香菇、花生味道。口中亦出現荔枝香氣，淡淡的蜂蜜與核果味道，因為烈酒帶來的辛辣感則讓人聯想到黑胡椒與辣椒。</p>
<h2>巴卡斯 Bacchus</h2>
<p>以白蘭地作法製成，然後進木桶熟成。</p>
<p>中等偏淡的茶色。焦糖、蜂蜜、醃燻、烘烤核果類香氣。入口除了蜂蜜、烘烤核果、類似辣椒的辛辣感之外，還有很奇妙的人蔘與八角香味。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>約旦 Zumot winery</h2>
<p>葡萄酒源起高加索山區，然後往南傳往中東地區，後來經腓尼基人由海路傳入歐洲，所以嚴格來說，位處中東的約旦應該有著相當久遠的葡萄酒歷史。</p>
<p>Zumot Group 是約旦的一個酒業與食品集團，最早是從 1954 年開始，不過那時候 Zumot 家族的主人 Bulos 只是以種植葡萄，然後賣給別人當作主業。</p>
<p>直到1987年，Zumot家族才開始酒類的生產與販售，不過這時候仍然是以蒸餾酒類為主。直到1995年，Zumot家族才開始在 Madaba 區種植專門拿來釀酒的國際葡萄品種。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Zumot Saint George Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir 2008 Madaba Vineyard</h2>
<p>蠻奇特的混調品種，即便在新世界充滿大量實驗作品的地方也很少見到這樣的組合。</p>
<p>酒色中等，呈現紅寶石與石榴石的顏色。</p>
<p>有著藍莓、草莓、覆盆子的新鮮莓果味道。隨著時間經過，莓果味道變得更佳的明顯，也出現了一些花香，不過淡淡的青椒味道並沒有較為散去。</p>
<p>入口有覆盆子、黑胡椒、香料與些許花香。酒體與香氣不甚厚實，或許跟熟成時間或者跟葡萄藤的年紀有關。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>泰國的葡萄酒產業</h2>
<p>一般而言，適合生產葡萄酒的緯度大約是在 30~50 度之間，但泰國卻推翻了這個規則，開始生產起葡萄酒來，同時泰國人也把他們這種不在緯度 30~50 度之間生產的葡萄酒稱作 &#8220;new latitude wine&#8221;。為了避免葡萄成熟後風味不足的問題，所以葡萄園多半在山上或者河湖邊，希望藉由水氣或者高度來調節過熱的氣溫。雖然如此，但在泰國的葡萄依舊可以達到一年兩熟的程度，這應該是泰國的葡萄酒生產者所需要面對的嚴苛問題。</p>
<p>泰國目前所生產的酒類，大約只有20%屬於葡萄酒(約110萬瓶/年)，而其中的80%都是紅酒。所生產的葡萄酒當中，約有1/3都外銷，主要銷往德國、斯堪地維尼亞、香港、中國與台灣，其中 Siam winery 的酒大概有 70% 都是外銷到其他各國去。在泰國酒稅非常的重，國內生產的要課200%，國外進口的要課360%。但因為澳洲酒是主要泰國國人消費的進口葡萄酒(約佔35%)，所以泰國政府在2005年跟澳洲簽訂FTA時，便將澳洲酒的進口關稅從原本跟其他各國一樣的51%以每年4%的幅度逐步調降，預計在2015年將會變為0關稅。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Chateau de Phayayen Shiraz 2009</h2>
<p>Chateau de Phayayen 位處曼谷的東北方約兩百公里的山上，海拔約有 400m 以上。</p>
<p>很遺憾地這款酒應該是保存不佳，開瓶倒出之後可以發現酒液混濁，還有衝鼻的俗豔氣味，像是熟爛的芭樂、廉價的香料巧克力、壞掉的梅果類香味，還有著不舒服的植物葉子嗆鼻味道與硫化物氣息。入口更有如一場災難，讓人難以下嚥，這大概是第一次這麼明顯感受到葡萄酒壞掉的樣子，與其豔麗帶有粉紅色調的紅寶石色澤相當不搭調。</p>
<p>雖然放到第二天之後，可怕的氣味變得比較弱，也出現了仙楂的味道，但還是令人難以接受。</p>
<h2>Siam Winery Monsoon Valley Shiraz 2004 Hua Hin Hills Vineyard</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.monsoonvalleywine.com/" target="_blank">Siam Winery</a>的葡萄園都在 Hua Hin Hills 的 Monsoon Valley，此地位在曼谷西南方約一百多公里處，海拔約 200~300 公尺左右，另外在東南方有個湖泊可以稍微調節溫度。Siam酒莊前應該使泰國最為首屈一指的酒莊。</p>
<p>雖然相較於 Chateau de Phayayen 處在比較南邊，但是這款酒明顯地做得比前者好(或許應該是Chateau de Phayayen 那瓶酒有點問題的關係)。中等酒色，稍稍偏淡，石榴石與紅寶石色澤。黑莓、黑櫻桃、黑胡椒，另外還有香草與焦糖氣味；放在1000~2000公升的大桶中熟成，所以也沒有太過度的木桶味道。入口的感覺沒有一般 Syrah 那樣的強勁，新鮮的草莓與覆盆子莓類香味，還有黑胡椒味道。還滿容易入口，可惜的是尾韻不夠長。</p>
<p>喝過這款酒也就不難想像為什麼歐洲人會願意進口泰國酒了，不似澳洲那樣的重口味，但又能帶來不同於隆河區的感受。</p></blockquote>
<h2>日本</h2>
<p>相傳日本在繩文時期就有飲用葡萄發酵飲料的習慣，但這個論點一直缺乏確切的物證。而目前有確切證據顯示種植葡萄與釀酒的紀錄應可追朔到西元718年，在甲州勝沼一帶，不過這時後釀酒是否拿來飲用則不得而知。開始有飲用葡萄酒的紀錄則要到西元16世紀，但對日本人來說，把葡萄酒漸漸融入生活中則是到明治維新之後的事情了。</p>
<p>因為明治維新之故，再加上日本地處緯度剛好適合種植釀酒葡萄，所以日本在明治維新之後也開始種植葡萄與釀酒的事業，目前最為有名的區域大概就屬甲州一帶，而最有名的葡萄品種應屬 Muscat Bailey A (為川上善兵衛將 Bailey 與 Muscat Hamburg 混種而成)以及甲州特有種葡萄兩者。甲州葡萄因為漫畫的關係所以在台灣的知名度反而不低，這次也很幸運地可以託Tomo桑帶了兩瓶來。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Sapporo 長野 Merlot Cabernet 2004</h2>
<p>Sapporo 成名是因為啤酒，不過近年來他們也開始跨足葡萄酒事業，在北海道、山梨、岡山、長野都有葡萄園。</p>
<p>中等石榴石色澤。黑醋栗、皮革、橡木桶、線香與花香氣味。入口有黑櫻桃、黑胡椒、皮革風味。酒體中等、單寧明顯略為偏高、酸度中等。相當平衡的一款酒，不論是品飲、搭餐都很適合，不過總覺得缺少些驚奇感，就跟日本人的中規中矩一樣。</p>
<h2>Chateau Mercian 2009 甲州きいろ香</h2>
<p>因為漫畫而大名鼎鼎的<a href="http://www.chateaumercian.com/wine/koshu/kiiroka_2007.html" target="_blank">甲州黃色香</a>。這款酒是用富永敬俊博士(2008/6/8過世)改良的甲州葡萄所釀製，和一般甲州葡萄的差異在於有更明顯的柑橘類香味，第一個年份為2004。</p>
<p>Chateau Mercian 算是日本最早的酒莊，於1877年開始種植葡萄，1949該酒莊第一款酒問世，1998年的時候還找來了Chateau Margaux 的manager指導。</p>
<p>偏淡的金黃色帶有綠色色澤。香氣也稍稍偏淡，除了礦石味道之外，柑橘、桃子與蜂蜜的味道偏淡，雖然可以感受到其優雅的風格，但夾雜著一些潮溼布料的味道有點衝突。</p>
<p>高酸度，鳳梨、柳橙與些微的礦石味道。口中香氣延續性不錯。</p>
<h2>勝沼醸造株式会社 御坂 MISAKA 甲州樽発酵 2008</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.katsunuma-winery.com/" target="_blank">勝沼醸造株式会社</a>位在甲州市勝沼町，主要有三片葡萄園，以種植國際葡萄品種為主，另外還跟當地的葡萄農簽約種植甲州葡萄(約 2.7 公頃)。使用木桶是這款白酒的特色，且用得非常適當，保有甲州葡萄的風味與風土的特色。</p>
<p>中等金黃色。香氣中等，主要呈現木桶香氣風格，另有鳳梨與一些礦石與煙燻味道。後來還出現一些乾果、梅子香味。</p>
<p>口中香氣沒有嗅聞時那麼濃烈，但酒體仍屬中上。鳳梨、木桶、淡淡的香草與礦石味道。尾韻有一些奶油味。尾韻的酸度稍微太過銳利，這大概是比較遺憾的地方。</p>
<p>但整體而言，同樣是甲州葡萄所釀製，我個人覺得這款做得比前者的甲州黃色香來得好。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>奧地利</h2>
<p>奧地利以生產白葡萄酒為主，其風格跟鄰近的德國、匈牙利很接近，唯獨所種植的葡萄品種不太一樣。奧地利約有四千年的葡萄種植歷史，但釀製葡萄酒的技術與飲用葡萄酒的習慣則可能是在羅馬帝國擴張的時候才被帶入這塊土地。或許因為過去技術貧乏的關係(不太確定)，一直到16世紀之後釀酒與飲酒的風氣才開始有明顯的成長。</p>
<p>不幸的是十七世紀先因戰亂與重稅的關係，再到十九世紀黴菌的感染影響，奧地利的葡萄酒工業一直沒辦法在世界舞台上好好表現。1872年的葡萄根瘤蚜蟲病(phylloxera)更是重創奧地利，這也使得奧地利種植的葡萄品種大洗牌，讓Grüner Veltliner這種比較容易照顧的品種成為主流，也因此奧地利的葡萄酒工業轉向大量生產便宜葡萄酒，然後輸出到以德國為主的其他國家，第一次世界大戰之後，奧地利因為這樣的方針而成為世界第三大的葡萄酒生產國。</p>
<p>不過這樣的方針後來也讓奧地利自食惡果，因為Grüner Veltliner品種雖然容易種植，但要有好品質卻不容易。當兩次的世界大戰過去，四海昇平的時代來臨，消費者開始從便宜大碗逐漸轉變成對品質越來越要求。所以不肖的酒商就在酒中加入二甘醇來讓酒喝起來更加厚實，而且因為同樣是醇類(酒精=乙醇)，所以也很難檢驗出來，不過夜路走多總是會遇到鬼，1980年就爆發了葡萄酒防凍劑醜聞(二甘醇常用來做為防凍劑)，又是重創奧地利的葡萄酒工業。(怎麼聽起來很像台灣的塑化劑事件&#8230; 囧rz)</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Weingut Gesellmann Opus Eximium Cuvee No.7 1994</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/5678792809/" title="R0018934 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5678792809_c74f0c373e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="R0018934"></a><br />
Gesellmann 這家酒莊相當古老，最早的紀錄可以回推至1767年。而在1988年推出 Opus Eximium 系列，與1992年推出Bela Rex後名聲更是響亮，儼然成為奧地利的膜拜酒款(cult wine)。Bela Rex 為國際品種所釀製，而 Opus Eximium 以及後來推出也很有名的 G 系列卻都是用當地品種釀製，充分展現奧地利不但可以做出絕佳的國際品種紅酒，同時也具有將當地品種推上國際舞台的實力。</p>
<p>Opus Eximium 系列後頭的編號即代表這款酒為第幾個製作年分，比方說 1988 年就是 Cuvee No.1，而這次品飲的 1994 年分就是 No.7。</p>
<p>石榴石顏色，略帶有茶色。木質氣味、老舊煙燻皮革、醃李子與許多的陳年風味。入口非常的平衡且結構平穩，沒有因為 16 年的時光流逝而衰敗，口中風味與鼻子所聞到的相當一致，且口中餘韻悠長。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>英國</h2>
<p>早在羅馬帝國時期，葡萄種植就已經傳入英國，但葡萄的產量以及釀酒的產量與品質卻因氣候關係而一直起起落落。然而，拜近年來地球暖化之賜，歐洲適合種植葡萄釀酒的區域越來越往北擴張，使得英國釀酒產業得以更蓬勃發展。事實上早在近年地球暖化問題出現的很久很久之前，英國就開始有種植葡萄的紀錄，當然，這也是因為羅馬帝國擴張之故，使得在現今的林肯郡(Lincolnshire)也有葡萄種植。因為葡萄園稀少且產量不穩定之故，所以在二十世紀前英國的葡萄酒給自己的國民喝都不夠，這也促使英國在當時變成葡萄酒最大進口國。</p>
<p>不過在1860，英國皇室大砍進口稅金(83%)之後，重創了英國的葡萄酒生產業，因為優質的法國(或其他國家)葡萄酒根本就把英國產葡萄酒打趴在地上，再加上第一次世界大戰爆發，許多葡萄園便改種麥子，並且糖也改為配給(在當時因為葡萄經常不夠成熟之故，所以英國葡萄酒在釀製過程中允許加糖)，使得英國的葡萄酒產業鏈日落西山。</p>
<p>到20世紀後期，約1970年代，因為德國甜白酒的興起才讓英國的葡萄種植與釀酒開始有所起色，雖然因為氣候關係，平均的品質仍然很難跟其他國家相比。進入21世紀後，因為暖化、食物里程(food miles)觀念的興起，再加上種植葡萄的經濟效益(每英畝約可收益三四千英鎊，和種植麥子的三四百英鎊差距甚大)，有越來越多的葡萄園產生。此外，英國的葡萄酒也開始在國際市場上發光，在2004年的歐洲氣泡酒大賽中，英國拿下前十名中不少的名次，更是激勵英國酒莊往氣泡酒的方向發展。</p>
<p>目前英國主要種植釀酒葡萄的區域是在東南邊靠近海邊的區域，或許這塊區域在很久很久之前跟法國香檳區是相連在一起－所以土質相當 類似，同屬白堊土，也因此英國的氣泡酒也隨之相當有名。</p>
<blockquote><h2>Nyetimber Blanc de Blanc 2001</h2>
<p>淡稻草顏色，稍帶綠色色澤。氣泡細小且充滿活力，維持時間超過一個小時以上。</p>
<p>香氣中等。梨子、蘋果、梅子、奶油、淡淡的蜜香、石頭，還有一些酵母味道。<br />
入口有檸檬、淡淡的酵母、蘋果、鳳梨、石頭。酸度很高且跟香氣一樣持續很久，但不會令人感到不舒服。當氣泡沒了之後也可以打趴一堆Chardonnay白酒。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>美國東北部</h2>
<p>講到美國葡萄酒，第一個反應可能是加州，然後是奧勒岡跟華盛頓。但實際上美國許多地方都有生產葡萄酒，只是在西岸的這三個聯邦州較為得天獨厚。在東北部因為大西洋洋流之故，所以天氣較同樣緯度的西岸較為酷寒，冬天來個幾場暴風雪都有如家常便飯。</p>
<p>這次品飲的兩款紐約州的白酒，都是來自Finger Lakes區。Finger Lakes 位在紐約州的西北邊，原本為多條由南往北注入Lake Ontario的河流，後來在約一百萬年前的冰河時期，由現今加拿大Hudson Bay的冰河大舉擴張南下侵入這些河川谷地，冰河退縮之後卻也把這些河川堵死而變成現今的 Finger Lakes。Finger Lakes 夏季高溫可達28度，比起紐約州中部要來得溫暖，夜晚也能保有16度的低溫，適合葡萄生長。此AVA比較大的問題大概就是土質，因為冰河推積的關係，帶來多種類的土質，但同時也有許多黏土，多少影響了排水。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Casa Larga Finger Lakes Viognier Reserve Limited Release 2006</h2>
<p>中等金黃色。香氣略為明顯，洋槐花、蜂蜜、忍冬、杏桃、淡淡的甘蔗甜味。</p>
<p>入口的味道稍淡一些。洋槐花、未熟的杏桃、白胡椒、淡淡的蜂蜜味道。酸度中上，但尾韻出現一些柑橘類果皮的苦味，略為可惜。</p>
<h2>Casa Larga Finger Lakes Riesling 2009</h2>
<p>淡金黃色。香氣中等但令人感覺鬆散，鳳梨、蜂蜜，以及淡淡的花香、礦石與汽油味道。</p>
<p>高酸度。口中有柳橙、蜂蜜、礦石與汽油味道。有點類似德國 Riesling 的風格，或許是土壤的關係，所以沒有像德國那樣的濃郁複雜。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>加拿大 Osoyoos Larose</h2>
<p>提到加拿大葡萄酒，可能大家都會先想到有名的冰酒。加拿大以混種的 vidal 葡萄釀製了許多物美價廉的冰酒行銷全世界，另外也有一些高品質的Riesling所做成的冰酒，但加拿大的紅酒實力也不容小覷。Okanagan Valley 地處內陸，遠離海邊約有200公里以上的距離，類似大陸型氣候外加有湖水調節營造出適合種植葡萄的條件，降雨不多，夏天高溫可逼近攝氏30度，夜晚也只有約15度不到的氣溫，讓葡萄足以成熟，同時兼具不錯的酸度。</p>
<p>Osoyoos Larose位在 Osoyoos Lake (跨美加兩國) 北邊的 Oliver 鎮上，為波爾多的 Groupe Taillan 與加拿大的 Vincor International 兩個集團一起創立，vincor International 最早的歷史可以推至1874年(<a href="http://www.winesofcanada.com/vincor_history.html" target="_blank">ref 1</a>, <a href="http://www.winesofcanada.com/vincor.html" target="_blank">ref 2</a>, <a href="http://www.vincorinternational.com/" target="_blank">ref 3</a>)，目前為 Constellation 這個全球最大的葡萄酒集團所擁有；而 Groupe Taillan 則是擁有 Gruaud-Larose 這個波爾多評級酒莊的母企業。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2006</h2>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/5678794617/" title="R0018936 by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/5678794617_14a99c98dc_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="R0018936"></a></p>
<p>表現非常好的一款酒，外觀是略深的石榴石顏色。奶油、黑莓、溼草地、巧克力、香草、松露、奶香、花香非常豐富，尤其隨著醒酒時間拉長，更能聞到越來越明顯的花香。入口單寧感明顯，非常大量且紮實。有黑莓、些微青椒，以及濕土壤的氣味。
</p></blockquote>
<h2>葡萄酒的發源地&#8211;喬治亞</h2>
<p>喬治亞位在高加索山區域，當地人種植葡萄的紀錄約在西元前9000~7000年間，而在西元前6000~5000年就有釀製葡萄酒的紀錄。Saperavi為當地高加索山的原生葡萄品種，也有可能是全世界現存最古老的葡萄品種之一。然而因未釀酒技術的落後以及過去未開放之故，喬治亞的葡萄酒一直難登大雅之堂。但隨著蘇聯瓦解與對國際開放，導入新的釀酒技術後，喬治亞的葡萄酒也開始迎頭趕上。前些日子Nina帶了幾位喬治亞的酒莊代表來台灣，藉由品酒會來推廣喬治亞的葡萄酒，雖然不少的品像仍然落後於其他國家，但也可發現酒莊的用心，不過，依舊是先前喝過的 Georgian Legend 最令人印象深刻，所以這回仍然是拿它來展現喬治亞的葡萄酒實力。</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Georgian Legend 2003</h2>
<p>偏深的紅寶石色。巧克力、老茶葉、焦糖、八角、濕土壤、溼葉子、花香、菸草氣味。入口的單寧感依然感受明顯，黑莓、師土壤、木頭與濕草地味道。跟前幾次的經驗差不多，很紮實且有特色。
</p></blockquote>
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		<title>Moscato 品酒會</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/31/971/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/31/971/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jul 2011 17:43:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moscato]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Muscat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=971</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2011/6/22@孔雀 One of the renowned region of Muscat/Moscato is Asti (in Piedmont, Italy). &#8220;Asti DOCG (or Asti Spumante DOCG)&#8221; means the spumante (sparkling wine) in Asti region, this DOCG is decreed in 1977. Besides, &#8220;Moscato d&#8217;Asti&#8221; is the other DOCG named after &#8220;Asti&#8221;. &#8220;Moscato d&#8217;Asti&#8221; is classified as a DOC in July 9, 1967, and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2011/6/22@孔雀<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/phanix/5989133035/" title="267510_222565734445073_100000749448450_726251_7074547_n by Phanix, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6134/5989133035_3f25605f35_b.jpg" width="720" height="540" alt="267510_222565734445073_100000749448450_726251_7074547_n"></a><br />
<span id="more-971"></span></p>
<p>One of the renowned region of Muscat/Moscato is Asti (in Piedmont, Italy). &#8220;Asti DOCG (or Asti Spumante DOCG)&#8221; means the spumante (sparkling wine) in Asti region, this DOCG is decreed in 1977. Besides, &#8220;Moscato d&#8217;Asti&#8221; is the other DOCG named after &#8220;Asti&#8221;. &#8220;Moscato d&#8217;Asti&#8221; is classified as a DOC in July 9, 1967, and then is upgraded to DOCG in Nov. 28, 1993 [<a href="http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moscato_d'Asti" target="_blank">ref</a>]. &#8220;Moscato d&#8217;Asti&#8221; includes still wine and frizzanto (semi-sparkling) of Moscato.</p>
<h2>The Eyrie Vineyards 2002</h2>
<p>Pale straw and blonde color.</p>
<p>Honey, dry rose bouquet, peach, light mineral, rot onion, light medicine liquid, light bitterness at the palate end. Dry, light chewy mouthfeel, high acidity.</p>
<h2>Domaine Bohn Muscat Rose 2009</h2>
<p>Pale salmon pink color.</p>
<p>Fresh rose and litchi in nose and palate. High acidity. Concentrated and good.</p>
<h2>Les Vignobles de La Couronne d&#8217;Or (Laugel) 2007</h2>
<p>Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Medicine liquid, light nuts, light bouquet. High acidity, and clove note and bitterness at palate end.</p>
<h2>Darting Muskateller Pfalz 2007</h2>
<p>Medium+ blonde and gold. Grass, mineral, light bubbles in mouth, and dry rose. High in acidity. Good.</p>
<h2>Asti Santero</h2>
<p>Yeast, light litchi, light citrus, longan, light unripe mango, caramel and nut shell.</p>
<h2>Moscato Dolce Mionetto</h2>
<p>Pale straw. Litchi and bouquet. An easy wine. Personally think this one should be served earlier.</p>
<h2>Petalo Il Vino dell&#8217;Amore Moscato</h2>
<p>Pale- straw, light green hue. Rose, wet cloth, medium acidity. This one is good if just drink it along, but is pale in comparing to others.</p>
<h2>MO 2010</h2>
<p>Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Ripe pear, litchi, nuts and light mango. Good.</p>
<h2>Castello del Poggio Moscato d&#8217;Asti</h2>
<p>Pale straw with green hue.</p>
<p>Mineral, peach, light longan. The acidity is low, but provides an elegant style in the fresh flavors.</p>
<h2>Moscato Spumante Cantico</h2>
<p>Pale straw, green hue.</p>
<p>Almond, litchi, dry longan. Pure, light and consistent in nose and palate.</p>
<h2>La Puerta Torrontes</h2>
<p>Torrontes is the crossing of Alexandria Muscat and Mission varieties. Gain the fresh fruity from Muscat and high acidity from Mission.</p>
<p>Pale blonde.</p>
<p>Distinct nuts, lime, grapefruit skin, pineapple, and light bitterness of citrus skin. Good</p>
<h2>Rocca Cerrina Asti</h2>
<p>Pale straw with green hue.</p>
<p>Nuts, butter creamy notes with the fresh peach.</p>
<h2>Abbazia Moscato Puglia IGT</h2>
<p>Abbey made moscato.</p>
<p>Grass, light litchi, light nuts, litchi and lemon. The sweetness in palate is not too over. Good.</p>
<h2>Il Giaj Plemonte Moscato 2010</h2>
<p>Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Dry fruit, brown sugar, guava, walnuts, dry longan(light but lingering), litchi, light dry date, citrus. Good.</p>
<h2>Prunotto Moscato d&#8217;Asti 2009</h2>
<p>Pale blonde.</p>
<p>Fresh green apple, light mineral, light citrus, peach. Good.</p>
<h2>Le Fronde Moscato d&#8217;Asti 2009</h2>
<p>Pale straw, green hue.</p>
<p>Litchi, mangon skin, hazelnut. Active nose and palate.</p>
<h2>La Morandina Moscato d&#8217;Asti 2010</h2>
<p>Pale straw.</p>
<p>Mongo skin, light mineral, litchi, good acidity.</p>
<h2>Moscatel ORO</h2>
<p>Fortified muscat, from Spain. Spices, light anise, bouquet, daisy, light medicine liquid, dry black mushroom.</p>
<h2>Quady Winery Muscat</h2>
<p>Red muscat. Medium- ruby.</p>
<p>Dry roselle blooming tea, mulberry, wet grass, violet, cherry. A bit too flamboyance.</p>
<h2>Tokaji Sargamuskotaly 2008</h2>
<p>Like BeerenAusleses wines from Germany.</p>
<p>Sweet nose and palate. Honey, nuts, dry fruits, daisy, clove, grapefruit. Lingering high acidity goes well with the sweetness in the chewy palate.</p>
<h2></h2>
<h2></h2>
<h2></h2>
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		<title>Louis Latour Grand Cru Tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/20/964/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/20/964/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:31:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[勃根地 Grand Cru]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bourgogne]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grand Cru]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[勃根地]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[法國]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[紅酒]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=964</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2011.07.19 @ 孔雀 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 Louis Latour Bartard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005 Medium blonde. Medium+ nose. Obvious oak barrel, mineral, sidewalk, pineapple, ginger, spicies and butter. Palate also shows wood note. Orange, gravel mineral, nuts. The crisp high acidity has a bit pickled plum flavors. Besides, light dry fruits hint shows at the lingering end. Very good. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2011.07.19 @ 孔雀</p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-964"></span></p>
<h2>Louis Latour Bartard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005</h2>
<p>Medium blonde.</p>
<p>Medium+ nose. Obvious oak barrel, mineral, sidewalk, pineapple, ginger, spicies and butter.</p>
<p>Palate also shows wood note. Orange, gravel mineral, nuts. The crisp high acidity has a bit pickled plum flavors. Besides, light dry fruits hint shows at the lingering end.</p>
<p>Very good. Compare to the next Corton Charlemagne, this one is stronger, and more buttery nose.</p>
<h2>Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2005</h2>
<p>Medium- blonde.</p>
<p>Medium nose in fresh style. Mineral, steel, grass, citrus. After breathing, shows hazelnut, light honey, and caramelized pineapple. Besides, interesting seaweed snack candy (昆布糖) nose.</p>
<p>Lighter in palate, compare to Bartard-Montrachet. Pineapple, light spicy white pepper.</p>
<p>Very good.</p>
<h2>Louis Latour Chambertin Grand Cru 2003 Cuvee Heritiers Latour</h2>
<p>Medium+ ruby and light garnet.</p>
<p>Strawberry at the beginning of medium+ nose. Light cream, grass, light pepper, leather. More cream nose and some pomegranate nose after breathing.</p>
<p>Black berry and black cherry break out in the palate. With light eucalyptus and light cinnamon note. Concentrated and velvet.</p>
<p>Hard to believe this is a 2003 vintage, still very powerful, active and energetic. At the beginning of peak, very good.</p>
<h2>Louis Latour Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2007</h2>
<p>Medium ruby and light garnet.</p>
<p>Soil, anise, leather, beneath bouquet, light butter, black cherry and white pepper. After breathing, anise nose turns into incense, and the black cherry nose is denser.</p>
<p>Medium body. Leather, black berry. Medium+ tannin is still young. Light tangerine note in the medium+ acidity.</p>
<p>Clos Vougeot has a big and good annual production, and the price is not cheap due to the demand. However, this one tonight is a bit boring and not so brilliant as comparing to previous Chambertine.</p>
<h2>Louis Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 2006 Les Quatre Journaux</h2>
<p>Romanee-Saint-Vivant is next to Romanee-Conti. This single vineyard, Les Quatre Journaux, is about 3.2 ha. Quatre means four, and Journaux is an ancient measurement unit in Bourgogne, it means the area that a vinegot can work in one day, about 0.8 ha.</p>
<p>Medium- ruby.</p>
<p>Ripe black cherry, grass, light bouquet, light vanilla, leathr, eucalyptus, creamy butter, and clove. More spice style at the beginning. After breathing, shows fruity berries and pomegranate. Beside, the bouquet nose is denser and more attractive.</p>
<p>Medium body. Leather, black berry, light clove, light black pepper, and veg hint.</p>
<p>Good.</p>
<h2>Louis Latour Corton Grand Cru 1999</h2>
<p>Medium- garnet.</p>
<p>Soil, nuts, leather, light pickled squash, and light ripe berries and red fruits.</p>
<p>Light pickled squash hint in the palate. Black berry, plum, light clove.</p>
<p>At the end of its peak period.</p>
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		<title>Bordeaux White Tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/07/952/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/07/07/952/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Jul 2011 15:52:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bordeaux]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[France]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grave]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pessac-Leognan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sauvignon Blanc]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Semillon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[法國]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[波爾多]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=952</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[20110706@孔雀 (這篇又懶惰不想寫中文了&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;) 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 Bordeaux is famous of the red wines, but there are great white wines in this region. The most common variety for making white wine in Bordeaux is Semillon, about 58%, and others are Sauvignon Blanc, 21%, Muscadelle, 10%, 9% Ugni Blanc, and some Colombard (might has larger plant area in America nowadays). [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>20110706@孔雀<br />
(這篇又懶惰不想寫中文了&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;)<br />
未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-952"></span></p>
<p>Bordeaux is famous of the red wines, but there are great white wines in this region. The most common variety for making white wine in Bordeaux is Semillon, about 58%, and others are Sauvignon Blanc, 21%, Muscadelle, 10%, 9% Ugni Blanc, and some Colombard (might has larger plant area in America nowadays).</p>
<p>The total area for those white grapes is about 14584 ha, quite small compare to 82495 ha red grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, etc.) vineyard. However, due to the berry size and the wine making process, the gap between the quantities of red wines and white wines is not so large, 575 million and 139 million, respectively.</p>
<p>In general, the bouquet, fresh fruity, grass, and crisp acidity are contributed by Sauvignon Blanc. The round mouthfeel and delicately scented noses and palates are from Semillon. Muscadelle contributes the low acidity (compare to Sauvignon Blanc) and aromas. Sometimes you can sense the mineral note in Bordeaux white, that usually comes form Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, just like what we usually sense in Loire Valley white wines.</p>
<p>For most wine consumers, the noble wines from Sauterne and Barsac are the most impressive. But, in fact, the noble wines from these two renowned regions are just a small portion of the whole Bordeaux white wine market. Besides Sauterne and Barsac, you can still find some good noble wines or late harvest wines from Loupiac and Cadillac.</p>
<p>Bordeaux white wines usually have barrel aging, which balance and smooth the strong and sharp noses, such as the eucalyptus, black currant leaves and rot egg, which are usually comes from Sauvignon Blanc. That&#8217;s one main reason why Bordeaux white wines are different from Sauvignon Blanc of New Zealand, Chile, and other new world countries. In these new world countries, Sauvignon Blanc wines are seldom aged in barrel, so it&#8217;s better to drink them at young age for enjoying the patient fruit, guava, light veg nose and fresh citrus flavored acidity. In contrast, Bordeaux white wines can be kept longer, and it is proved in this wine tasting. In addition, this barrel aging process also adds the cream flavors and chewy mouthfeel in Bordeaux white.</p>
<h2>Chateau Berthenon Sauvignon</h2>
<p>Medium blonde, light green hue.</p>
<p>Fig, light melon skin, lemon, light nuts, light mango. After breathing, shows sweet flavors of honey and litchi. Pineapple and light cream palate with vegetable and light walnut hint.</p>
<p>Good.</p>
<h2>Chateau Mayne Pargade 2009</h2>
<p>Medium lemon color. Asparagus, eucalyptus, light pineapple, light grapefruit palate. Very dry and high acidity.</p>
<h2>De Luze 2007</h2>
<p>Medium- blonde, with light green hue.</p>
<p>Flint, baked almond (beneath), citrus and light cream. The flavors and aromas in palate and nose are not complex, but are quite concentrated, especially the flint nose, very attractive.</p>
<h2>Graves De Luze 2008</h2>
<p>Medium blonde, green hue.<br />
Eucalyptus, light black currant leaves, green onion, grapefruit skin, and pineapple.</p>
<h2>Chateau Baret 2004</h2>
<p>Medium+ gold. Savory flavors of oxidization. Over ripe peach, watery honey, watery coffee, nuts, old wood case, taro(芋頭).</p>
<h2>Chateau Bouscaut Grand Cru Classe de Graves 2004</h2>
<p>Medium gold with green hue.</p>
<p>Mineral, pineapple, pistachio nut(開心果), vanilla, hazelnut, savory style.</p>
<h2>Chateau de Fieuzal 2007</h2>
<p>Medium- blonde with green hue.</p>
<p>Light savory style of pickled fruits and nuts. Flint, gun powder, lime, lemon, very high acidity.</p>
<h2>Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2004</h2>
<p>Very good. Mineral and light ocean coast nose. Grapefruit in nose and palate, and in the crisp acidity. The citrus and mineral palate is well balanced. The light hazelnut and vanilla are great decorations. After 30 mins breathing, ripe patient fruit and light bouquet, make this wine from good to great.</p>
<h2>Chateau Carbonnieux 2006</h2>
<p>Medium gold with green hue.</p>
<p>Fur wood, light honey (beneath), lemon, light smoky, hazelnut, and pineapple. Palate has light spicy, tropical and citrus fruits, and light vanilla.</p>
<p>Quite a good Bordeaux white, but it&#8217;s not so brilliant if comparing with the previous Smith Haut Lafitte and the following Haut-Brion white.</p>
<h2>Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion 2006</h2>
<p>Medium- blonde, with green hue.</p>
<p>Peach, light mineral, citrus nose of grapefruit, impressively elegant floral nose, light vanilla and mint. Very dry.</p>
<p>At the beginning, this Haut-Brion white is not so charming. However, after 15 minutes breathing, the floral makes me stick around it.</p>
<h2>Domaine de la Solitude 1993</h2>
<p>This estate is managed by Domaine de Chavelier from 1993. So, this is the first vintage of Olivier Bernard&#8217;s management.</p>
<p>Super good. Diluted caramel macchiato, stir fried vegetables (celery), fermented beans (豆豉), creamy popcorn. The caramel nose becomes denser and denser with breathing (just like Werther&#8217;s Original caramel candy).</p>
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		<title>Cycles Gladiator quick tasting</title>
		<link>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/05/22/935/</link>
		<comments>http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/archives/2011/05/22/935/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 May 2011 15:01:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Phanix</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[酒神 Bacchus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[California]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rose]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[USA]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[white wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wine tasting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[加州]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[品酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[白酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[粉紅酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[紅酒]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[美國]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.phanix.idv.tw/?p=935</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Pinot Grigio2009 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Zinfandel Rose 2009 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Pinot Nior2008 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康 Not have too much time for this tasting event, so just memo some notes. Probably not very correct, but I am sure the Pinot Noir is the best [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Pinot Grigio2009<br />
Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Zinfandel Rose 2009<br />
Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Pinot Nior2008<br />
Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2009</p>
<p>未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康<br />
<span id="more-935"></span><br />
Not have too much time for this tasting event, so just memo some notes. Probably not very correct, but I am sure the Pinot Noir is the best one. BTW, the Cycles Gladiator Chardonnay is not tasted in this event, I think it&#8217;s the best according my tasting experience, because the 11% viognier enriches the flavors.</p>
<p>Pinot Grigio 2009: pale straw. Medium- nose, appeals green apple, light honey and light muskmelon. A bit light body, easy to drink with medium acidity. The palate notes are quite similar to the nose. Length in palate is good.</p>
<p>Zinfandel Rose 2009: medium pink. Strawberry dominates the medium- nose and the light body. Also an easy to drink wine. I think good to pair with BBQ pork.</p>
<p>Pinot Noir 2008: Honestly, the best among these 4 wines. Black cherry and leather in the medium+ nose and palate. Tannin is smooth enough, but can be more velvet after more aging.</p>
<p>Cabernet Sauvignon 2009: Need more aging. The palate is a bit short, and the mouthfeel is a bit tannic as expected. Black berry, leather, and light green pepper.</p>
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		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

