Almaviva 2001

Medium+ garnet.

Medium+ nose. Black berry, leather, soil, tar, light butter, light smoky, light baked cookie, hints of bouquet and grass. Soy sauce pickled squash, pounded grass and leather on the glass top. Compare to the staidness and undertone of 2002, this vintage shows a bit active and stronger style in nose at the beginning. After 1 hr, shows mint and bouquet.

Medium to full body. Crisp medium-high acidity, and velvet high- tannin. Black chocolate, licorice, black currant, light raspberry jam, mint, cinnamon, pickled squash, leather, and clove note. Very lingering.

Almaviva 2002

Medium+ garnet.

Medium+ nose. Black berry, black cherry, chocolate chips, light mushroom, leather, and hazelnut hint. Bouquet and hints of vanilla and caramel on the glass top. After 1 hr, some prickly ash and fennel, let me think of braise beef noodles (紅燒牛肉麵).

Chocolate, ripe black berry, roasted beef note, green pepper, and light spices in the medium-full body. Medium-high acidity is lingering (but not as long as 2001). Tannin is not as much as 2001, but more velvet. Chocolate, mint and spices notes at the end. Between 2001 and 2002, personally prefer the nose of 2002, and the palate of 2001. Both vintage can be kept for 5 years from now, especially 2001.

Almaviva 2003

Medium-deep garnet, slightly ruby hum at the rim.
Medium+ nose. Ripe black berry, light smoky leather, old wood cask, chocolate, crushed grass, clove, fennel, light pickled vegetable and attractive bouquet. With beneath hazelnut. More spicy nose than 2004, especially after breathing.

Medium-high tannin, not fully matured, still coats the teeth and the gums. Black pepper spicy flavor, cinnamon, light bitterness, licorice, plum, chocolate, pickled vegetable. Crisp acidity (medium+) balances with the palate, shows up noticeably after the lingering palate, and enriches the saliva.

Can keep for 5 more years.

Almaviva 2004

Medium+ garnet.
Medium+ nose (2003 is stronger). Black cherry, black berry, creamy butter, eucalyptus hint, bouquet, wet soil with withered leaves, light caramel, vanilla hint, and light tar hint. Shows butter and bouquet style after 1 hr breathing.

Medium-high acidity (lasting long). Medium+ tannin, not matured. Black berry, chocolate, brewed coffee (a bit acid flavor), eucalyptus leaves, chocolate note, and bouquet. Full body. But the acidity is a bit unbalanced with the flavors in the palate.

Almaviva 2005

Medium+ garnet.
Medium+ nose. Grass, black currant, baked meat with smoky flavor, quince, and bouquet (light, but increasing). Wild impression at the beginning. Some volatility nose which decreases after swirling. After breathing, reveal its fruity character with black cherry jam nose, which goes with black pepper, light vanilla, and chocolate.

Medium+ acidity (lasting), medium+ tannin (not matured). Licorice, black berry, Chinese anise, and cocoa powder. The ending has a note just like the ending note of one shot espresso and chocolate. Very lingering. Need more aging (at least 3 yrs).

Almaviva 2006

Medium+ garnet.
Medium nose. Black berry, leather, black pepper, light bouquet, chocolate and old wet wood. After 1 hr breathing, shows some vanilla and light smoky notes (and increasing!). After 2hrs, rose bouquet. After 3 hrs, shows smoky and pickled plum.

Medium+ body, medium+ tannin (still young). Medium-high acidity. Black berry, plum, chocolate, licorice. Long length. Needs about 3 yrs aging to get its peak.

Almaviva 2007

Medium-deep garnet with ruby hue.
Medium+ nose. Bouquet, cranberry, light strawberry jam, light dust, light green pepper, and chocolate sauce. After 1 hr breathing, black berry and light hazelnut.

Medium-full body, high tannin (very young). High acidity. Distinct notes of jammy black fruits, cinnamon, pepper on the palate. Very lingering. High potential for aging.

Almaviva 2008

Medium-deep garnet/ruby.

Medium+ nose. Black cherry, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee, light leather and bouquet. With hint of vanilla, sandalwood, incense, and burned wood. The vanilla nose becomes denser after 1 hr, also the incense nose.

Medium+ body. Black berries, oak, chocolate, light bouquet. High acidity. Some licorice and over-ripe berries note at the lingering end. Medium+ tannin, not fully matured. Aging potential is a bit less than 06′, due to its body and tannin and acidity are weaker than 06′ vintage.

先從酒標說起，上頭的圓形圖案其實是 kultrum (Cultrun/Cultrún)，為安地斯山的印地安 Malpuche 族用在祭典與儀式中的鼓，圖案有許多的樣式，但大抵所代表的意義都是 – 宇宙/Universe/The whole world。

而 almaviva 可以拆開來成為兩個西班牙文字 alma 與 viva，意義分別為 活躍的/具生命力的 與 人/靈魂 ，所以在中國 Almaviva 的翻譯”活靈魂”會比起台灣用”智利王”要來的更貼切一點，不過我覺得還是講 almaviva 最好。

Almaviva 為 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 與 Concha y Toro 合作，前面我們已經知道這隻酒跟智利的關連，但跟法國的關連呢？事實上 Almaviva 為法國經典名劇”費加洛的婚禮(Le Nozze di Figaro)”中的伯爵的名字(Count Almaviva)，而在 Almaviva 官方網頁所使用的背景音樂也正是 Le Mariage de Figaro 的序曲音樂(Overture to the Marriage of Figaro)，此奏鳴曲為許多樂團演奏過，可以在 youtube 上找到許多版本，甚至還有很 high 的爵士鼓版本喔 (請看之前的介紹)

Le Mariage de Figaro 為 Beaumarchais (Pierre Beaumarchais, 全名為Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais)的名作費加洛三部曲的第二部，這三部作品完成於 1772, 1778 與 1792年。第一部的名稱為 Le Barbier de Séville (賽維亞的理髮師)，第三部為 La Mère coupable (有罪的母親)。

看完作品的介紹會覺得其實跟台灣的鄉土連續劇(比方說夜市人生或天下父母心)差不多，首部曲講白了就是 Figaro 幫偽裝成平民的 Count Almaviva 在西班牙 Seville 把妹，最後是成功把到這個醫生 (Bartolo) 的女兒 Rosina。

第二部中 Figaro 成為 Count Almaviva 的僕人，想要跟同在 Almaviva 家中服務的 Susanna 結婚，可是色老頭 Count Almaviva 卻想動用領主的「初夜權」來對 Susanna 下手，而原本 Bartolo 醫生的女管家 Marcellina 卻覬覦著 Figaro 年輕的肉體，而 Rosina 夫人可能也是吃幼齒顧眼睛所以跟家中的童僕 Cherubino 有著不正常的關係。最後才發現 Figaro 是當年 Bartolo 與 Marcellina 的私生子，而 Count Almaviva 想動用初夜權的壞主意也被 Rosina 破壞，Figaro 與 Susanna 終於順利結婚。不過童僕 Cherubino 卻因為事跡敗露被逐出伯爵家，而送去當兵打仗了。

Beaumarchais 因為這部極為諷刺封建制度中許多不合理的陋俗的劇本而飽受許多眼紅人士攻擊，1781 年的時候路易十六還很生氣的宣布禁演，直到 1784 才又開放公演。但是 Beaumarchais 的政敵持續攻擊他，後來 Beaumarchais 在報紙上寫了一篇文章回擊，其中有一句意思是「為了一出喜劇公演，我連獅子和老虎都克服了。在成功後，您還想強迫我像荷蘭女僕似的每天早晨用柳枝打臭蟲嗎？」結果就被政敵去打小報告，說獅子跟老虎是指路易十六與王后，所以 Beaumarchais 又被抓去坐牢(對！已經不是第一次了，先前他還被褫奪公民權過，透過援助美國獨立戰爭等特務工作才又拿回公民權)。

Beaumarchais 被關進了聖拉撒監獄(專門關押盜竊犯和淫蕩少年)的消息一傳開，輿論大嘩。這種不滿情緒使封建朝廷慌了手腳，朝廷想把 Beaumarchais 偷偷放出來，可是 Beaumarchais 不答應，要求訴之法律。後來路易十六王室想盡了辦法平息輿論，並用「正常」的方式釋放了 Beaumarchais，出獄的第二天，各部大臣幾乎都觀看了 Le Mariage de Figaro 的演出。路易十六還下令在泰亞儂戲院上演《Le Barbier de Seville》。王后在劇中親自扮演 Rosina，阿多亞伯爵扮演 Figaro。國王路易十六還贈給 Beaumarchais 八十萬里佛，作為補償他在美國獨立戰爭時受到的損失。

不過大概是因為被關怕了(甚至在 1789 法國大革命前他還被關過)，或者是因為封建的制度已經在法國大革命中被推翻，Beaumarchais 的第三部作品 Le Mere coupable (1792)就沒那麼精彩，不過還是一樣很灑狗血。Rosina 夫人居然懷了 Cherubino 的種，之後生下男生 Leon。Cherubino 在戰爭受傷死前也寫了一封信給 Countress Rosina，這封信 Rosina 夫人找了個愛爾蘭工匠 Bégearss 做了個鎖盒保存起來，不想讓 Count Almaviva 發現這個秘密。雖然 Count Almaviva 沒有證據來戳破 Countress Rosina 的謊言，但一想到以後的繼承人可能是野種就讓 Count Almaviva 非常的生氣，所以想盡辦法把財產都轉到他自己在外頭的私生女 Florestine 身上。而知曉 Rosina 秘密的 Bégearss 也同時知道 Florestine 的身份，所以千方百計地想要跟他結婚。不過，天算不如人算，Leon 居然跟 Florestine 也搞在一起。在這回故事中，Figaro 和 Susanna 則成為拯救 Count Almaviva 家庭和諧幸福的救星。

看完這些介紹心裡頭只覺得，為什麼在法國平民百姓的鄉土劇，在台灣人的眼中就變得高貴起來？是否跟葡萄酒一樣，一旦飄洋過海就翻上數倍呢？戲劇、音樂、美食與酒類，都是在衣食無缺的庶民都會有的追逐目標，何以在法國是平價享受，在台灣就是奢華不已？期望在台灣美食與酒類都能漸漸變得更實惠近人。

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Vina Casablanca Blanc de Blancs NV Casablanca Valley

Small and mild bubble in the medium blonde-gold color. Yeast, baked nuts, citrus and fig flavors with a bit chewy texture (w/o bubbles).

Waimea Estates Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2009 New Zealand (得獎年份為 2010)

Light blonde. Typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Black currant leaves, lemon and light melon skin. Medium-high acidity.

Waimea Estates Spinyback Pinot Gris 2006 Waimea Plains, Nelson New Zealand (得獎年份為 2009)

Light+ blonde. Surprising Pinot Gris due to its distinct petrol/mineral nose, very different to those from Alsace and Italy. Good.

Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2010

Hand picked Riesling contributes the elegant flavors and acidity balance. Begin with the mineral and orange flavored acidity. Shows honey and bouquet while the temperature goes higher. Good.

De Bortoli Deen Vat 1 Durif 2008 South Eastern Australia Australia (得獎年份 2009)

Personally think this is the best one of today. This Durif/Petit Syrah shows deep ruby color with purple rim, and nose includes jammy fruit flavors, leather, and black pepper hint. Although the tannin is high and young, the mouth feel is still comfortable. The medium+ acidity, tannin and the dense fruity shows its aging potential (I think 5 yrs aging is not a problem). Good.

VinEcol Mendoza 2010 Oak Reserve Malbec (得獎年份為2009)

Although I think the viticulture style of this winery is a bit over, this long maceration Malbec do show the charming bouquet. Nose also includes over-ripe black berries, vanilla, and leather. The tannin mouth feel is a bit rough.

Bird in Hand Shiraz Two in the Bush 2010 Mt. Lofty Ranges, South Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2009)

Similar to the 2008 Durif, but this Shiraz shows bigger structure, fuller body and denser nose. Leather, berry jams, bouquet and light butter. Too early to drink, need at least 3 yrs aging.

Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Margaret River, Western Australia Australia (得獎年份為 2007)

Not as energetic and active as other Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, this one shows a implicit and undertone style. Leather, light green pepper, berries, oak barrel. The palate is very lingering… Good.

未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Chapel Down Tenterden England NV Sparkling Rose

Chateau Paveil de Luze 1998

Holy cow Riesling 2006

Schramsberg Cremant 1988 Demi-sec

The name, Chardonnay, probably comes from “Chardonnay” village in Maconnais region of Bourgogne. Actually, this variety is a crossing of Gouais Blanc and Pinot (the parent of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc). The viticulture record of Chardonnay can be tracked back to the 1st or 2nd century. Chardonnay is the 2nd widest planted variety all over the world. The 1st variety, Airen, mostly planted in Spain, is usually used for making spirits and low quality wines.

The origination of Chardonnay variety does not comes from “Chardonnay” village, and the very beginning planting area of this variety may not be in this village. Though, the viticulture of Chardonnay became common after the 6th or 7th century, and the name “Chardonnay” was not common until 19th century. The “burst” of planting Chardonnay is from 1980-1990, and this “burst” is majorly in USA and Australia. This burst also makes USA is the #1 largest planting area of Chardonnay, and Australia takes the 2nd place (France is #3). The planting area of Chardonnay in USA comes from 7200 ha in 1980 to 40000 ha in 2005 (overpass France in 1988).

Chardonnay is an early bud and quick maturing variety, so the great regions of this variety are usually in colder areas. Skin is thin, so mold can more easily affect it. Besides, Chardonnay also has more Millerandage (berry size differs a lot, due to the blooming time difference) problems than other variety. However, Millerandage sometimes provides wine makers small berry full of flavors to making great wine.

Chardonnay also contains more diacetyl (丁二酮，屬二酮類), so it is also a good candidate variety for making noble wines. Diacetyl can contributes smooth/chewy mouthfeel and flavors into the wines. The best soils for Chardonnay is chalk soil, clay, and limestone. Chalk soil contains more carbonic acid, which is good for producing the acidity of grapes. Clay is usually not a good soil for vines, due to its high density. However, the roots of Chardonnay is more “powerful/mighty” than other varieties, so clay can help Chardonnay to construct the flavors and improve the density of flavors. Limestone soil has the advantages of clay and chalk soil.

Chardonnay is a high yield variety. 8000 L/ha can still provide normal quality, although great Chardonnay wines are usually from vineyards of about 5000 L/ha. (For other varieties, 5000 L/ha is high yield). When the weather gets warmer and berries get into the maturing period, the acidity decreasing speed and the sugar increasing speed of Chardonnay are faster than other varieties. Thus, many wine makers do not use “full mature” berries. In colder regions, the Chardonnay usually contributes green fruits, such as green apple and green lemon. In warmer region, pineapple, peach, banana, and other tropical fruit flavors are more common.

In Chile, Sauvignon Blanc is probably a more famous variety, but Chardonnay is actually the #1 planted variety, which occupies more than 7500 ha vineyards. Chile Chardonnay was similar to USA style before, but turns into less oak barrel style in these years. High acidity and green citrus flavors are the major style of Chile Chardonnay.

Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet are two major communes in Cote de Beaune. Chassagne-Montrachet borders on the south of Puligny-Montrachet. Chassagne-Montrachet Chardonnay usually gives higher-tone and more oak barrel effects than Puligny-Montrachet. Puligny-Montrachet usually gives undertone image and green citrus.

Aloxe commune is the renowned commune producing Chardonnay in Cote de Nuits, and Corton-Chalemagne is the Grand cru in this commune. More smoky, acidity, strong and firm.

Shaw+Smith M3 Chardonnay 2009

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2009

Concha y Toro Amelia Chardonnay 2008

B. Defaix Chablis 1er Vaillon 2008

Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrieres 2000

Vincent Girardin Corton-Chalemagne 2009

F. Gagnard Criot-Batard-Montrachet 2006

Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet 2003

先給 python 程式…

import socket

host = YOUR_HOST_ADDRESS # ‘localhost’ or ’127.0.0.1′ for local machine, IP_ADDRESS for remote machine
port = YOUR_PORT_NUMBER_OF_MAYA

maya = socket.socket(socket.AF_INET, socket.SOCK_STREAM)
maya.connect( (host, port) )

message = ‘sphere()’
maya.send(message)
maya.close()

C# 用 socket connection

Socket s = new Socket(AddressFamily.InterNetwork, SocketType.Stream, ProtocolType.Tcp);
s.Connect(YOUR_HOST_ADDRESS, YOUR_PORT_NUMBER_OF_MAYA);

string strCmd = “sphere()”;
byte[] buf = System.Text.Encoding.Default.GetBytes(strCmd);

NetworkStream ns = new NetworkStream(s);

ns.Write(buf, 0, buf.Length);
ns.Flush();
ns.Close();

s.Close();

C# 用 Tcp client connection 的話也差不多

TcpClient tc = new TcpClient();
tc.Connect(YOUR_HOST_ADDRESS, YOUR_PORT_NUMBER_OF_MAYA);

string strCmd = “sphere()”;
byte[] buf = System.Text.Encoding.Default.GetBytes(strCmd);

NetworkStream ns = tc.GetStream();

ns.Write(buf, 0, buf.Length);
ns.Flush();
ns.Close();

tc.Close();

比較需要注意的大概是 commandPort 命令的用法。

如果是使用

commandPort -echoOutput -n “:6000″;

則會會開 port 6000 並 bind 在 127.0.0.1 上，這時候如果是要從 remote 機器上來控制就會 connection refused。

如果是使用

commandPort -echoOutput -n “YOUR_IP_ADDRESS:6000″;

則會會開 port 6000 並 bind 在 YOUR_IP_ADDRESS 上，這時候如果從本機用 localhost 來控制會 connection refused，但是用 YOUR_IP_ADDRESS 則不會有問題。

最簡單的解決方式是

commandPort -echoOutput -n “0.0.0.0:6000″;

這樣不論是本機或者 remote 機器來控制 Maya 做事情都可以很順利。

StringBuilder sb = new StringBuilder();
XmlWriter writer = XmlWriter.Create(sb);

writer.WriteStartDocument();
//補上 xml 內容, 用 writer.WriteStartElement() 等完成
writer.WriteEndDocument();

writer.Flush();

XmlDocument xmlDocument = new XmlDocument();
xmlDocument.LoadXml(sb.ToString());

但是可以發現到這樣子所輸出的 XML 文件是變成 UTF-16 encoding。雖然有 XmlWriterSettings 這東西可以去設定 XMLWriter 的編碼，不過看起來好像是有些問題，輸出的 XML 結果依舊是 UTF-16。

解決的方法是用 MemoryStream 與 XMLTextWriter。

MemoryStream stream = new MemoryStream();
XmlWriter writer = new XmlTextWriter(stream, Encoding.UTF8);

writer.WriteStartDocument();
//補上 xml 內容, 用 writer.WriteStartElement() 等完成
writer.WriteEndDocument();

writer.Flush();

StreamReader reader = new StreamReader(stream, Encoding.UTF8, true);
stream.Seek(0, SeekOrigin.Begin);
string result = reader.ReadToEnd();

XmlDocument xmlDocument = new XmlDocument();
xmlDocument.LoadXml(result);

當天去華山看 Geisai 展覽，絕大部分都是攝影或繪畫類，全部就屬我拍的照片中那幾個作品比較特殊，包含那個泡茶器、壓克力板重疊的作品。但其中最特殊的就是朋友李姿玲的發票鵝卵石，乍看之下真的很像白色鵝卵石，拿起來卻是相當的輕盈。每一個發票石都是來自同一個發票捐贈人的發票，煮成紙漿之後再經過多道手續塑型與研磨，一兩個月的生活軌跡就變成了一個輕盈無比的鵝卵石，拿第一名當之無愧。

BTW，有些參展者感覺起來不是來參展，而是來賣商品的，令人感覺有點奇怪。 =___=

related news: 村上隆GEISAI TAIWAN 發票石奪金獎, 發票鵝卵石 李姿玲獲GEISAI金獎

感謝 Lance 大廚精心設計的菜單

(↑設計對白：我考慮考慮…)

(↓設計對白：我可以搞定的!)

剩下的直接看 slideshow 好了…

雖然 R 牌跟 Z 牌還有 S 牌的機器杯評價都不錯，但是在價格上確實比較不親民；C 牌雖然有著堅固耐用的特性，但是對於他們的杯型總是不太喜愛；另外還有兩個 R 牌與一個 B 牌價格雖然也不貴，但是以之前使用過的經驗卻覺得不如較昂貴的 R 牌來的好用；還有個 O 牌，基本上我們是直接打槍它。找杯子的過程一直到遇上了 Lucaris 之後才讓人覺得柳暗花明！

Lucaris 有較昂貴的上海系列，以及平價的東京與曼谷系列。透過精密的機器研磨技術，整個杯子幾乎沒有接痕，會讓人有手工杯的錯覺，而且重量雖然不似 R 牌輕巧，但是也算得上是輕薄好用。上海系列的杯型真的很漂亮，但是考慮到較長的杯腳可能在大量使用與清洗的時候折損率比較高，所以我們就只考慮平價的兩個系列。為了要決定哪一類的杯子要用哪一個系列，所以先後跟小高還有 Jasmine 去試過 Bordeaux、Bourgogne、Champagne、Chardonnay這四種杯子。

還記得第一次去挑 Bordeaux 杯的時候帶了款 Languedoc 的紅酒(Cabernet Sauvignon + Merlot)去試，還很殘忍地帶了 R 牌的機器杯去做比較。新年份的紅酒在 R 牌的杯子中有較明顯的皮革與香料味道，可是該有的新鮮莓果香氣卻比 Lucaris 東京系列要來的弱，而曼谷系列的杯子則讓香氣有一些悶住。其實原本只有期待不要輸給 R 牌太明顯就好，沒想到表現卻是出乎意料。

後來又去試了一次杯子，則是一口氣 Bourgogne、Champagne、Chardonnay 三種… Bourgogne 很明顯地曼谷系列贏了，大概是杯子底部比較大、圓的關係；Chardonnay 杯其實曼谷系列把木桶奶油的香氣表現得很好，但是東京系列更能表現出加州Chardonnay隨著時間與溫度改變而呈現的不同風貌。最令人猶豫的是 Champagne 杯了，其實東京跟曼谷系列的表現在仲伯之間，但杯口略微內縮的設計有助於香氣的聚集，所以我們最後選擇了曼谷系列。

或許是英雄所見略同，代理商那邊也說，其實對這四種杯型我們挑選的系列確實也賣得比較好，而且抓著老闆一起試杯子的時候，老闆也說確實如同我們所說的那樣，不同的杯子有不同的表現。

此外，Lucaris 在過幾天(2011/11/6起)要舉辦的 HK Wine Future 葡萄酒展裡，被 Robert Parker 選擇為酒展使用杯子。雖然我自己對 Robert Parker 是沒有很喜歡，但是，老話一句，英雄所見略同。




好東西逃不過精明的眼光