Wine Spectator Top 100 California Chardonnay Tasting

2011/5/27

未成年請勿飲酒,飲酒過量有礙身體健康。

Wine Spectator 每年都會選出當年度上市酒款的 Top 100,評選標準除了品質之外,還包含了是否容易取得。所以,名列 Top 100 的酒款不見得是分數 95+ 的怪物,但至少有一定品質,同時很容易就能買到,我個人認為這是個不錯的選酒指南,而且品質都有其水準。不過,台灣的葡萄酒界常拿這個話題來炒作,被選入的酒款常常瞬間價格水漲船高,而失去了 Wine Spectator 原本挑選 Top 100 的美意。(比方說這次品飲的某款 Chardonnay,國外售價差不多在30米金,但在台灣價格卻近乎2000新台票,進口商也賺太大了...)

加州的 Chardonnay 也有許多酒款入選過 WS Top 100,且水準不遜於 Bourgogne 與 Chablis。說到加州的 Chardonnay,通常大家先聯想到的是 Napa Valley AVA,但因為在加州當了將近一年的酒鬼交換研究人員,反而覺得 Santa Cruz Mountains AVA 的 Chardonnay 更是令人驚艷。

Santa Cruz Mountains 雖然比 Napa Valley 要更南邊,但以其較高的海拔與靠海的條件,所以在較長的日曬時間之外還能夠擁有較冷涼的氣候,提供 Chardonnay 一個可以有高糖分與酸度與香氣的成長環境。高品質的 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 在木桶的使用上很類似 Bourgogne Grand Cru 的風格,而不會像 "Oaked" Chardonnay 那樣過於濃郁,所以可以在木桶創造的風味之外讓人感受到礦石、果香與花香的豐富性。

這次的品酒會主要的重點在加州的 Chardonnay,特別是 Santa Cruz Mountains 產區的酒款,此外,為了做比較,另外有一瓶 Chablis 來做為冷冽 Chardonnay 的對照以及一瓶來自日本的酒款來做為比較。

Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2005


Medium+ blonde, green hue.

Medium+ nose. Light spicy, barrel, light acacia, light fruit candy (increasing), orange, honey, mineral and flint. After breathing, aspalagus, maple sugar and light black currant leaves.

Medium body with high acidity. Citrus, light apricot, light honey and coffee.

Mount Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2006


Medium blonde.

Butter, light dry fruit and fresh mint at the beginning of the medium+ nose. Grape fruit, light cream and distinct mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note after breathing, the same to the 05 vintage, this probably is the character of Mount Eden.

High acidity. Apricot, pineapple, light spices and light mineral. Shows some black currant leaves note. (grapefruit, cream cheese, spices, eucalyptus leaves. licorice@end)

Personally dislike the black currant leaves note, but I have to say these two vintages are good from a wine tasting view.

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Chardonnay 2007


Medium- Blonde with green hue.

Medium- nose. Pineapple, beneath light honey, light peach, and increasing noses of vanilla, smoke, flint and light cream. (fresh oak barrel, spicy grasses, light petrol)

High acidity and medium+ body in palate. Mineral, pineapple, light cream and increasing smoke note. Interesting anise note at the end. (barrel, veg, light dry fruit)

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Home Ranch Chardonnay 2005


For more stories of "Home Ranch", plz check my past tasting note.

Medium blonde with green hue.

Medium nose. Distinct honey, hazelnut, light citrus, 甜豆沙, 黑糖紅豆漿汁, mineral (sidewalk), light chocolate, beneath chocolate. After breathing, toast, 冬瓜茶, 仙草蜜, spicy vanilla. Attractive, charming, sweet and elegant flavors and aromas. (citrus, and plastic pipe)

Honey, light spicy, 水煮竹筍, 豆沙, light ripe orange(, dry fruits, white pepper, roasted nuts, walnut) in the palate. High acidity. So good, just like a Bourgogne Grand Cru.

個人認為這款 Home Ranch 跟下一款的 Mount Bello 是這天最好的... 😀

Ridge Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Mount Bello Chardonnay 2006


(沒有 06 的照片,拿 07 的... )
Medium- blonde with green hue.

Medium nose. Light lemon, ornage, light acacia, light wood cask, and toast.

Lingering high acidity. Citrus, apricot, mineral, mango, white pepper, almond and acacia. Simple in palate flavor types but very concentrated.

Good and elegant, but I think it must be much better after 3-5 yrs.

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2006


Medium blonde.

Medium- nose. Orange, apricot, mineral, nuts, creamy, bouquet and white pepper.

Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay Private Reserve 2007


Medium blonde with notable green hue.

Medium nose. Chestnut, light hone, pineapple, baked bread, light peach, light creamy butter, light orange and a bit gravel.

Dry fruit, apricot, wood, grapefruit and butter in the high acidity palate.

These two Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay are a bit similar to "Oaked" Chardonnay, but keep the mineral terroir and are not so over in the oak notes.

Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudevey 2006


Medium- blonde.

Medium- nose. Honey, mineral (light flint), orange, grapefruit skin.

Medium body. High acidity. Orange, apricot, lemon, light honey, light dry fruit.

This Chablis is lighter in both nose and palatel, comapre to preceding California Chardonnay wines.

登美の丘ワイナリー登美2004


神の雫酒款。表現很好,不過 7000 日幣的價格不太便宜,如果可以在 1500 台幣內的話會很殺... @@"
Medium- blonde.

Medium nose. Boiled popcorn, steel (金屬斷面), 豆沙, creamy, light savory note.

The palate contains barrel, cream, popcorn, mineral, nuts, and 豆沙. Very high in acidity and light savory.