Cahors Wine Tasting — II, The annual best wine maker!

2012/3/16 @Danny's Kitchen
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未成年請勿飲酒,飲酒過量有礙身體健康

先說總結好了,Cedre GC 無庸置疑的好,但是要慢慢等待。Le Cedre 兩個年份都很棒,不僅殺翻 Cahors 同等級價位,更會痛宰 Bordeaux,只有Pur Plaisir 能夠匹敵。要跟前一場的比,Pur Plaisir 這個控制在低收成量的成品一定可以完勝!兩個酒莊的初階(Ch. Haut Monplaisir 2008 & Cedre Heritage 2009)拿來當餐酒喝不會心痛,更會驚喜連連!

Matele Jean Le Blanc 2009

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Second time for this Chardonnay, but this time it has more than 1 hr breathing, and is well chilled. Last time I tasted this wine is in the room temperature (more than 20 Celsius degree) without breathing, and it shows a bit green leaves flavor of sauvignon blanc style, then turns into California chardonnay tone. This time is quite different, it has the image of Bourgogne Grand Cru, flavors of well barrel process and milky of malolactic fermentation, with fresh apple and citrus noses, and hints of honey and bouquet. Thanks for the 9-10 months barrel process in new french barrel with low-toast.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 這是第二次喝這款Chardonnay,但是這回跟上次不一樣,先開瓶醒過一小時以上,同時有冰鎮。上次喝的時候沒有先開瓶醒酒,同時是在超過攝氏二十度的室溫底下喝這款酒,結果開頭先有類似Sauvignon Blanc的綠葉味道,後來變得很像美國入桶Chardonnay。因為有冰鎮跟醒酒的關係,讓香氣有勃根地特級園的影子,精巧的木桶陳年與乳酸發酵的香氣,同時保有新鮮的蘋果與柑橘類味道,另外更出現了蜂蜜與花香。使用低烘烤度的全新法國橡木桶陳年9-10個月的作法令人印象深刻。
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Chateau Haut Monplaisir 2008

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Medium-deep ruby. Black berry, black cherry, black pepper, chocolate, fur, BBQ meat, and rose hint in the pronounced nose. Compare to the entry level of Cedre, this one is more dark fruit.

Palate is dry, with tea, licorice (and some other mandarin medicine flavors), dry grass, and black berry with the medium+ body and medium+ tannin. About 10% Merlot (the same to the next Prestige), but seems not helpful to "soft" the strong and dry Cahors Malbec mouthfeel. XD

Can lasting for about 4 hours, it's amazing for a daily dining pal level wine, though this is the shortest one tonight.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 偏深的紅寶石色澤。香氣很濃厚,黑莓、黑櫻桃、黑胡椒、巧克力、獸毛、烤肉、還有一些玫瑰香氣。跟Cedre的初階酒相比,這款呈現出更多黑色果實的甜美味道。

入口有茶葉、甘草、中藥財、乾燥草堆、黑莓的香氣。中度偏高的酒體與單寧,但是入口依舊把口水榨乾,讓人很想吃肉。雖然有加了約10%的Merlot,但是「軟化」Cahors強而有力的Malbec口感好像也是不夠啊 XD

這款酒是今晚紅酒中撐最短的,不過開瓶後也維持四小時的時間,非常有實力的日常佐餐良品。
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Chateau Haut Monplaisir Prestige 2008

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Medium-deep ruby. Dust (disappear after breathing), black currant, leather, chocolate, bouquet, vanilla. The nose is more elegant than previous one.

High tannin. Mint, black berry, chocolate and licorice. Also added about 10% Merlot to soft the strong Malbec, and makes it tasted firm and good. Better concentration of the nose and palate than the previous entry level. However, honestly, do not put this with the next Pur Plaisir together, that would make this in an abashed position (well, price and quality issue).
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 偏深的紅寶石色澤。開頭雖然有些灰塵味道,但很快散去,之後香氣比起Chateau Haut Monplaisir 2008更加優雅,黑醋栗、皮革、巧克力、香草與花香。

高丹寧。薄荷、黑莓、巧克力、甘草。也加了約10% Merlot,但是喝起來還是一樣強勁,口感紮實。且不論在香氣或口感上,都明顯地比前一款來得更優質。但是老實說,如果跟下一款比,這款又被比下去了(果然一分$$一分貨!)
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Chateau Haut Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2008

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] The high end stuff of Haut Monplaisir, yield is about 20-30 hl/ha. De-cork for 48 hrs before serving. Deep ruby. Black cherry, blue berry, dust (disappear), light vanilla (increasing with time), ebullient bouquet. After 2 more hours breathing, it's SO VANILLA, SO HAZELNUT, AND SO BOUQUET. ABSOLUTELY LUXURY AND CHARMING. Perfect for a formal occasion (such as dating dinner :p)

This "Plaisir" (pleasure in English) also presents high tannin and high acidity, and also fruity raspberry, hazelnut, licorice, black cherry jam, and fabulous bouquet on the palate. Lingering length makes this more treasurable.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] Haut Monplaisir 的最高階酒款,以低收穫量的葡萄(20-30 hl/ha)釀製而成。倒入杯子前已經先開瓶48小時。深紅寶石色。黑櫻桃、藍莓、淡淡的香草與美妙的花香。再經過兩個多小時的醒酒,香氣變得很香草、很榛果、很花香,極度雍容華貴與迷人。個人認為在事先開瓶48小時,再加上晚上短短三小時的時間內,這瓶酒是當晚表現最佳的,其他更高階的酒款則需要更多的時間等待。很適合在重要場合來慢慢享用(比方說約會 😛 )。

入口一樣是高丹寧跟高酸度,但因為已經提早兩天開瓶,所以算是四支高階酒款當中,當晚狀況最好的一隻酒(其他三款事先開瓶的高階酒款都還需要醒酒)。覆盆莓、榛果、甘草、黑莓果醬,以及美妙的花香。悠長的餘韻更顯得珍貴!
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Chateau du Cedre, Cedre Heritage Malback 2009

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Medium+ ruby. Mint grass, black cherry, chocolate, charming bouquet. Compare to the entry level of Haut Monplaisir, relatively more elegant, milky (probably comes from the malolactic fermentation). After breathing, shows some fruit candy, sweet!

Medium body. Black berry, bouquet, light wood flavor. Medium+ tannin, medium+ acidity.

Compares to Chateau Haut Monplaisir 2008, this one is more robust for long time tasting or food pairing, more bouquet, though not so many black fruit flavors.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 偏深的紅寶石色。薄荷、黑櫻桃、黑巧克力、花香。與Haut Monplaisir的初階酒款相比,沒有那麼直接,但是優雅許多,同時帶有一些奶香。醒酒之後出現糖果甜香(像是水果糖或者過年時候吃的冬瓜糖/白脫糖)。

入口是中等酒體、略偏高的酸度。黑莓、花香、木質調味道

跟Haut Monplaisir的初階酒款相比,雖然沒有那麼多的黑色莓果味道,更為強韌可以經得起更長時間的品飲,或者搭餐時可以感受多樣的變化,更具花香調。
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Chateau du Cedre 2008

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Medium-deep ruby. Very Bordeaux smell. Black berry jam, leather, soil, light hazelnut, milky flavor, and green pepper hint.

Palate is not so Bordeaux style. High tannin and medium+ acidity. Clove, chocolate, black berry. Strong body, good length.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 偏深色紅寶石色澤。很波爾多的香氣。黑莓果醬、皮革、土壤、一些榛果味道、還有奶香、青椒味道。

但入口就很不波爾多了。高丹寧、結構紮實、偏高酸度。丁香、巧克力、黑莓。餘韻延續很好。
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Chateau du Cedre, Le Cedre 2006 and 2007

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] Both vintage are medium-deep ruby, 07 vintage is a little bit deep. Both de-corked for 48 hrs before serving, but apparently 48hrs is not enough.

06 vintage starts with grass, wet soil, and black cherry flavors; 07 vintage starts with black cherry, bouquet, vanilla and creamy nose. After breathing, 06 vintages shows chocolate, black cherry, bouquet, cigar and vanilla; 07 vintage shows mint and straw berry. To sum up, both vintages are more elegant than Pur Plaisir. However, 06 vintages starts with soil and dark fruits; 07 vintage starts with barrel process flavors. Personally think 07 vintage applies more delicate barrel process.

Both vintages have high acidity and high tannin. 06 vintage starts with dark fruit (like its nose), then anise, espresso, and chocolate notes follow. 07 vintage has black berry, leather, coffee and clove. Personally think 06 vintage is better than 07 vintage.
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 這兩個年份都是偏深的紅寶石色澤。都提前48小時開瓶,不過很顯然地,48小時不夠!

06年份開頭以草、濕土壤、黑櫻桃為主;07年份一開始除了黑櫻桃味道外還有花香、香草、奶油味道。但後來這兩者的味道調性變得趨向吻合,06年份也出現了花香、巧克力與香草味道,還帶有一點煙草味;07年份有薄荷與草莓味道。個人猜測07年份的木桶使用可能下了更多功夫。

這兩個年份都是高酸度、高單寧。06年份比較多黑色漿果味道,還有八角、濃縮咖啡與巧克力味。07年份則是黑莓、皮革、咖啡與丁香。

但,這兩個年份跟 Haut Monplaisir 的 "Pur Plaisir" 相比更加優雅,且更有陳年實力,因為 "Pur Plaisir" 都已經正好喝的時候,這兩個年份都還在賴床啊!但真的要在這兩個年份取個高下,我會認為06年份比 07更好,但等待07年的適飲比較不花時間。
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Chateau du Cedre, G.C. 2008

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[/wpcol_1fifth] [wpcol_2fifth id="" class="" style=""] I think de-corked for 48 hrs before serving is not enough, at least 96 hrs. This GC still sleeps till the end of the dinner.

Deep ruby. Fruity floral baked cookie, vanilla, coffee, rose, chocolate paste, raspberry jam, and a hint of ginseng roots. Need more breathing.

High tannin and high acidity on the full body palate. Black berry, mandarin medicine, cream. Still far away from full mature, maybe 10 yrs!
[/wpcol_2fifth] [wpcol_2fifth_end id="" class="" style=""] 個人覺得先開瓶48小時根本不夠,起碼要96小時。一直到了最後才稍微有點醒過來的跡象。

深紅寶石色。花果手工餅乾、香草、咖啡、玫瑰花香,巧克力醬,覆盆莓果醬,還有類似人蔘的味道(植物根與土壤)。

高單寧高酸度強壯酒體結構紮實!黑莓、中藥、奶油。熟成適飲?搞不好要等個十年!
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