Chateau du Cedre “Le Cedre” 垂直品飲

2013/1/11
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未成年請勿飲酒,飲酒過量有礙身體健康

Cedre Heritage Blanc 2011

Sauvignon Blanc + Semillon, similar to Bordeaux white blend. Actually, Pascal Verhaeghe does not plant these two varieties, the grapes are come from other growers.

No barrel used. Melon, green apple, grass, floral honey, light dry fruits, and a bit honeysuckle and acacia nose (when the temperature is low). When the temperature goes up, more Sauvignon blanc character shows up. Light green leaves, grapefruit. Medium+ acidity, good length. Different to New Zealand and Chile SB, not so much patient fruit, guava and eucalyptus leaf nose. More similar to California style, more ripe fruity (Well, the most similar is Bordeaux non-oaked white wines). Quite a bargain, and a good choice for a daily Bordeaux white blend. (Well, it’s almost impossible to drink Smith Haut Lafite Blanc everyday, right?)


沒有用木桶。香瓜、青蘋果、草地、花蜜、輕微乾果,還帶有一點洋槐花味道(當溫度低的時候)。溫度上升後,才開始比較有Sauvignon Blanc的味道,樹葉、葡萄柚。中偏高的酸度,餘韻不錯。不像紐西蘭或智利的的Sauvignon Blanc有很明顯的百香果、芭樂、葉子(甚至是貓尿)味道,反倒比較接近美國的風格,有較多的成熟果香。當然,風格最接近的應該就是波爾多的白酒了,不過是沒進桶子的那種。價錢也便宜,個人覺得當不知道該買什麼波爾多調配白酒的時候,這是個好選擇,總不可能每天都是 Smith Haut Lafite Blanc 吧~ XD

Cedre Blanc 2010

At the peak. Pronounced acacia floral nose. Barrel aging contributes the vanilla, cream and cedar nose. White pepper spice in the nose and also on the palate, and the typical apricot flavor. The barrel also contributes a bit tannin mouthfeel. Medium+ acidity. Lingering length. Very good.

個人認為現在是在巔峰。明顯的洋槐花香。木桶帶來的香草、奶油與松木味道也很明顯。另外有白胡椒,以及Viognier品種該有的杏桃味。木桶也帶來了一些單寧的澀澀口感。中偏高的酸度,餘韻很長。

Cedre Blanc 2011

Very similar to my first time drinking Cedre Blanc 2010 abt 6 month ago. Still in the developing stage, but very aromatic. Apricot, acacia, light milky from the yeast, butter ball and Taiwanese candied melon. Has a hint of grass. High acidity. Better than 2010 vintage.

跟差不多半年前喝到2010年份的感受很類似,2011年份還在發展階段,但已經是香氣十足。杏桃、洋槐花、一些酵母帶來的奶香,白脫糖、冬瓜糖甜香。另外帶有一些草地味道。高酸度。個人認為比2011年優異。

Le Cedre 2009

VERY VERY YOUNG. Personally think 3 yrs aging at least. A lot of young tannin. Black berry jam, chocolate, leather, light black pepper, violet, light cream, chili pepper skin. Let me related to Chateau du Cedre G.C. 2008.

實在太年輕了,個人認為至少還要陳年三年才能讓這大量年輕的單寧稍稍柔化。黑莓果醬、巧克力、皮革、淡淡黑胡椒與奶油香,紫羅蘭、辣椒皮。讓人想起Chateau du Cedre 的 2008 年份G.C.

Le Cedre 2007

I think I can copy the tasting note one years ago. Very similar experience. The only difference is, this time the wine takes less time (about 1 hr, compare to 3 hrs last time) to spread out its flavors and aromas. Chocolate, licorice, ripe black cherry, vanilla, cinnamon, and flower. Same to last time, 07 vintage is earlier to drink than 06 vintage.

應該可以直接抄去年的品酒筆記,因為味道實在太像了。比較大的差別是,這次醒酒花的時間比較短,大概只花一個小時的時間味道就很奔放,比起之前要花個三小時好很多。巧克力、甘草、成熟黑櫻桃、香草、肉桂、花香。依舊比起06年要來得快甦醒。

Le Cedre 2006

Again, can copy the tasting note last time. Ripe black berry (turns into black cherry), licorice, wet soil, chocolate, gravel (surprise!), flower, light hazelnut, mint and anise. Need more time than 07 vintage.

呃,真的可以抄去年的筆記。成熟黑莓(後來轉為比較像黑櫻桃香味),甘草,濕土壤、巧克力,礫石(!)、花、一些榛果香味,薄荷與八角。一樣比07年來得慢醒,需要更長的陳年時間。

Le Cedre 2003

Black berry, licorice, chocolate jam. After 2.5 hrs, FLOWER! Personally think need more breathing time. The first reason is that the nose and palate are closed down, only the high intensity can be detected. The other reason is the tannin is very high and not matured. This tasting note is probably too arbitrary, maybe open another bottle again and wait for it for the whole night in the coming weeks.

個人認為值得再醒酒長一點,看看有什麼變化,因為整個晚上幾乎香氣都是閉鎖的,單以這次的品飲記錄或許有點過於武斷。黑莓、甘草、巧克力醬,醒酒兩個半小時後出現大量花香!口中味道很濃郁,但混沌交錯在一起,加上依舊很硬的單寧,還沒辦法完全展現其美好的一面。

Le Cedre 2000

Black chocolate, old wood, a bit old/aged flavor, pickled plum, dust and stone. Tannin mouthfeel appear aft breathing (quite interesting), still velvet. Need more breathing time than 1998 vintage. Still can keep for 5 yrs.

黑巧克力、舊木頭、有些陳年熟成的味道,醃黑李、灰塵、石頭味。單寧感居然在醒酒之後出現(有趣),但已經很順口。需要比 1998 年份更長的醒酒時間。再放個五年不是問題。

Le Cedre 1998

Lack of flavors and aromas (except pickled plum) at the beginning. More than 1.5 hrs breathing will give you rewards of flower, perfume, minty, black pepper, stony, obvious mandarin medicine. Velvet tannin. Very good. Still can keep for 5 yrs.

一開始沒什麼味道,除了一些陳年紅酒會出現的醃李子味道外。不過耐心的等待(1.5hrs)會有很好的香氣回報,薄荷、花香、香水、黑胡椒、石頭、明顯的中藥味(四物湯?)。單寧柔順。是個好喝的陳年瓊漿,現在喝或者在放個幾年都可以。

NOTE

Chateau du Cedre changed their viticulture methods after 1995 hailstorm, and started to apply organic farming. They tried banning all herbicides at the beginning, and then get rid of all the chemical stuff by 2002. Thus, the 1998 and 2000 wines are in the pain changing phase. While comparing the 1998, 2000 and 2003 vintage, I can find the body, density and complexity of 2003 vintage is much better than 1998 and 2000. Besides, the nose and palate of 03 vintage are MUCH younger, more powerful and well-structured than 98 and 00 vintages, can not believe they just have 3(and 5) yrs vintage difference. I think the potential of Chateau du Cedre organic (even biodynamic) farming is fully unrolled after 2006 vintage.

Chateau Haut Montplaisir “Pur Plaisir” 2009

Bonus wine/加碼

This chateau is consulted by Pascal, so the style is similar to Chateau du Cedre. This wine, Pur Plaisir, is the premium one, quite equivalent level to “Le Cedre”. So, a nice match, huh?

Black currant, eucalyptus leaf, black pepper, leather. Very similar to Le Cedre 2009, but not so dense and a bit lower acidity than Le Cedre 2009. Need aging, definitely. If you want a velvet mouthfeel, I think 3 yrs is necessary. This consistency of style makes me believe 09 is a outstanding vintage for Cahors, even outperforms 2006 and 2007 a lot.


Chateau Haut Montplaisir 是 Pascal 當顧問的酒莊,其中 Pur Plaisir 為該酒莊的最頂級款,相當於 Le Cedre。風格與氣味都跟 Le Cedre 2009 很接近不過沒有那麼濃郁,還有酸度稍微低一點而已。黑醋栗、尤嘉麗葉、黑胡椒、皮革。建議陳年之後再喝,最起碼等個半年讓味道更融合一點。不過如果要等到單寧柔順的話,可能也是三五年跑不掉。跟 Le Cedre 09 的風格相近,所以讓我很肯定 09 年 Cahors 的風格取向,同時更確定這是個非常好的年份。

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