Paul Jaboulet Aine

2010/7/24, @孔雀
Paul Jaboulet Aine
未成年請勿飲酒

還是先來補一些背景知識。

隆河區基本上區分為北隆河與南隆河。雖然有這樣的區分,但是實際上北隆河的產葡萄酒區域大概只有70000公頃(hectare/ha.),大概只是南隆河的 1/30。

北隆河

雖然北隆河面積不大,但是在此區的 AOC (如下,摘自 wikipedia)都是品質相當優良,特別是 Côte-Rôtie 和 Hermitage,而 Crozes-Hermitage也不差。北隆河可使用的葡萄品種比較少,只有 Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne 跟 Roussanne 四種。

  • Côte-Rôtie AOC - reds of Syrah and up to 20% Viognier.
  • Condrieu AOC - whites of Viognier only.
  • Château-Grillet AOC - whites of Viognier.
  • Saint-Joseph AOC - reds of Syrah and up to 10% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
  • Crozes-Hermitage AOC - reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
  • Hermitage AOC - reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
  • Cornas AOC - reds of Syrah only.
  • Saint-Péray AOC - sparkling and still whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
  • 如果從地圖上看,Saint-Joseph AOC 佔地最大,但實際上 Crozes-Hermitage AOC 的葡萄園面積是北隆河區排行第一,Saint-Joseph AOC 只排在第二。

    南隆河

    南隆河的 AOC 的數量也比較多一些,其中最有名的就屬 Châteauneuf-du-Pape,而Côtes du Rhône也出產許多品質優良的紅酒。

  • Côtes du Vivarais AOC
  • Côtes du Rhône AOC
  • Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC
  • Côtes du Rhône Villages (named villages)
  • Coteaux du Tricastin AOC
  • Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC
  • Vacqueyras AOC
  • Rasteau AOC
  • Gigondas AOC
  • Beaumes de Venise AOC
  • Muscat de Beaumes de Venise AOC
  • Tavel AOC
  • 一般說來,南隆河區要買到水準以上的酒很容易,也不需要花費太多的金錢,主要原因是因為隆河區允許使用的葡萄種類繁多(>20種!),像是Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne 等等,所以只要釀酒師採用適當的 blending 比例,就可以做出不錯的酒來。

    In addition, southern Rhone produces more percentage red wines than northern Rhone region. That's probably because northern Rhone has some "white only" AOC regions, but no such restrictions in southern Rhone AOCs. In southern Rhone, there are about 90% red wines, 4~5% rose, and 5~6% white.

    Paul Jaboulet Aine 酒廠

    1834年由 Antoine Jaboulet 創立,為隆河區著名酒莊之一,年產量約 400萬瓶,葡萄園面積超過百公頃,並在 Hermitage 有25公頃的葡萄園,產量不超過 4000L/ha.。

    旗艦酒款為 Hermitage la Chapelle。La Chapelle 意為「小教堂」,該區葡萄園為 Jaboulet family在 1919年買下象徵 Hermitage 的小教堂,並以此為名,此酒混合 Le Meal 和 Les Bessards 兩葡萄園的葡萄釀製而成。比較年輕的葡萄則釀製成二軍酒 Hermitage Le Pied de la Cote。

    而白酒則以隱居騎士 Le Chevalier de Sterimgberg 為名,混合三個葡萄園的葡萄,而比例為 65% Marsanne + 35% Roussanne,呈現蜂蜜、蜂蠟、礦石味道調性。

    Cotes de Rhone "Parallele 45" Blanc 2009

    Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc

    Blonde with light green hue.

    Peach, almond, white flowers, licorice (interesting!), light honey and some mineral notes.

    Palates contain white pepper spicy flavors and grapefruit acidity. Light sweet (honey tone) and spicy -> acid -> ends with a little bit bitter note.

    Roussanne 提供了果香跟酸度,香氣溫和內斂,口感清爽但還不到過於奔放的程度。

    Crozes Hermitage "Mule Blanche" Blanc 2006

    Marsanne and Roussanne

    Blond.

    Honey, light smoky, almond and oak barrel nose. Besides, interesting petrol note (probably due to Marsanne)!

    The palate is quite similar to the smelling. Besides, hawthorn fruits.

    Hermitage "Le Chevalier de Sterimberg" Blanc 2005

    Marsanne and Roussanne

    Beautiful gold.

    Hermitage in French means "hermit" in English. According to the legend, in 1224, the "Chevalier" (knight) Sterimberg was hurt in the battle of Crusades, and he lived in the "chapelle" in privacy and started to make wines. His wines is very good and quite famous. After that, people used his name, Sterimber, to name the white wine.

    The nose and palate are quite similar, including 蜂蠟、去漬油、petrol, honey, caramel, ripe pear, toast, hawthorn, mineral and oak.

    Cotes du Rhone "Parallele 45" 2007

    Syrah and Grenache

    Beautiful blue berries. Ripe black cherry, leather, oak and flower. Palates are berries and black pepper.

    Too young (tannins). Besides, it's weird that I feel the wine body is not so strong as other Cotes du Rhone I had tasted before. (actually, most red wines tonight is not so strong body as I expected)

    Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Les Cedres" 2007

    Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvedre

    Grenache and Cinsault contribute the fruity flavors and Syrah and Mourvedre contribute the tannins, spicy notes and the wine body.

    Might be the percentage of Syrah and Mourvedre is not too high, so this wine presents an elegant, smooth and moderated style.

    Mint, grass, berries. After breathing, it shows slightly cherry sweetness and floral nose.

    Palate is mainly cranberries with tangerine acidity.

    Crozes Hermitage "Domaine de Thalabert" 2006

    Syrah

    Sunny tone fur, leather, black pepper, chocolate, cinnamon, licorice, mandarin medicine, cranberries.

    (weird... 100% Syrah, but thin body... @_@a)

    Hermitage "La Chapelle" 1995

    Syrah

    Old closet, rotten wood, wet soil with wither leaves, black dried mushroom (香菇), chocolate, fur, pickled plum, mint hint.

    Palate: chocolate, pickled plum. Velvet tannins.

    This wine is matured, and the nose changes quickly, quite interesting.

    Muscat de Beaumes de Venise "Le Chant des Griolles" 2007

    Muscat 'a petits grains (小果實muscat)

    light blond

    Honey, peach, almond, and light litchi.