Bordeaux 老酒

2011/3/10 @孔雀。


Chateau Lynch Bages 1973

[column width=45% padding=5%] The long ageing makes some sediments in the medium+ brown. Old, but still splendid.

Bursting sugarcane sweetness and fully matured plum noses go with light vanilla, caramel and old wood hints. The typical black pepper and leather noses of Pauillac are more rounded and smoother after 30+ years ageing. Beneath smoky and tobacco noses elegantly decorate this old gentleman.

The palate is still well structure with medium acidity. The coffee and salty pickled prune flavors show in the early beginning with smoky tobacco and sugarcane hints. The fresh pepper aroma and flavors of dry berry and raisins still reminds me its potential of ageing. Fully matured medium tannin brings velvet mouthfeel in the lingering palate, with delicate licorice ending.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 長時間陳年的沈澱在中等的褐色酒液內。老,但仍閃閃發亮。


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Chateau Lalande-Borie 1978

In 1970, the owner of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugene Borie, bought a 30 hectare single plot vineyard from the other grand cru classe winery, Chateau Lagrange, to establish Chateau Lalande-Borie. Planting 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc on 25 hectare of this estate. The gravel surface with rough gravel and mud subsoil provides this vineyard with good drainage. High density planting (8500 plants/hectare) with good pruning and other technologies also contribute a lot to the wine quality.

Besides of Ducru-Beaucaillou and Lalande Borie, Jean-Eugene Borie really owned a huge wine empire, including Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Chateau Haut-Batailley and Chateau Ducluzeau. Among these wineries, Ducru-Beaucaillou also produced the second wine, La Croix de Beaucaillou, from 1995; Grand-Puy-Lacoste also had the second wine, Lacoste Borie.

François-Xavier Borie, the eldest child of Jean-Eugene Borie, inherited Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Haut-Batalley. He had a lot of wine making experiences as helping his father running Ducru-Beaucaillou; in fact, Xavier probably knew more about winery administration and wine making than his brother and sister. However, the other estates are now managed by his brother and sister, Bruno and Sabine, after Jean-Eugene's pass away in 1998. In 2002, Bruno change the wine label of Chateau Lalande Borie from white background to yellow background. Accordingly, the wine labels of Bruno's properties are all in yellow background style, and Xavier keeps the mono-style of white background on wine labels of Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Haut-Batalley.

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium+ brown color shows its old age.

Soy sauce pickled squash goes with cappuccino's espresso and cinnamon in the medium+ energetic nose. The wooden incense reminds me the Taiwanese traditional religion, the smoke of burning incense looks illusory but quite peaceful, just like the incense nose of this 30+ wine makes me feel comfortable. The brown sugar note shows up after breathing, goes with light caramel, green pepper and leather notes.

The medium-high acidity is crisp with orange flavors. Pickled plum, coffee, over ripe berries, caramel and licorice aromas are well balanced. Light ground sesame paste notes at the end of long length palate. Medium+ tannin and medium+ body.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 陳年後的褐色


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Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1970

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium+ garnet with brown hue.

Medium smooth nose, still dense, no senescent hint, hard to believe it's 40 yrs old. Light licorice and active black pepper are beneath the ripe black berry and plum. These energetic noses make me hard to believe it's an 40 yrs old wine. Light leather, wet soil, spicy grasses and tar with hints of hazelnut, chocolate and tobacco. Shows some attractive caramel and coffee after 30 mins breathing.

Medium+ body. Chocolate and light black cherry palate. Light savory oxidization note. Dry leaves and dry soil. Licorice and light bouquet. Light black pepper spicy and light over ripe water melon note. Almost at the end of peak.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅帶點褐色色澤。


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Chateau Lafon-Rochet 1970

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Caramel, vanilla and bouquet. Pickled plum, light smoky leather, nuts and light volatility smell, light oxidized noses. Might be aged for too long time, the nose is not so dense, but a little loose instead.

Light salty savory flavors in the medium body palate. Medium+ acidity with over ripe tangerine flavor. Chocolate, caramel and over ripe berries (with light rotten note). The structure is still well at the beginning, but can not keeps very long. Flavors and aromas of palate drops quickly, so that I think its peak is just passed.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色


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Chateau Montrose 1975

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Medium noses of pickled plum, chocolate, leather, and fur. Elegant wooden nose and light wet nose of melon skin are very impressive. However, the most surprising is the light rose with very light incense aromas. After breathing, caramel and creamy chocolate with burned wood and smoky leather aromas. After more breathing (about 1.5 hrs), light roasted sliced lean meat, light dry mushroom, light fresh wood, and ROSE ROSE ROSE. The rose nose is the most impressive and surprising, indeed "Mont"-"Rose".

Medium+ body with medium acidity and medium+ tannin. Over ripe plum, cinnamon, light coffee, light nuts and light bouquet. Medium+ length with licorice and light unripe guava note ending. The palate is good, but not as wonderful as the nose.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色

醃李子、巧克力、皮革與毛皮味道。優雅的木質香味,還有濕濕的瓜皮味道。但最令人驚訝的是淡淡的玫瑰花香與淡淡的線香味道。稍微醒酒之後,有焦糖跟奶油巧克力醬香氣,混著燃燒煙燻的木頭與皮革味道出現。經過1.5小時的醒酒之後,有燻肉乾、香菇味道,還有變得非常明顯的玫瑰花香。真不愧是 Mont"rose"

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Chateau Canon 1975

[column width=45% padding=5%] Medium garnet brown.

Saint-Emilion premier grand cru classe, and its history can be traced back to 1716. The noses is not as strong as Montrose, and the aromas are also quite different. Medium- nose. The beginning is like a cup of light American coffee with brown sugar, with hints of cinnamon and leather. Some almond, flowers(light rose nose and others), pear and black pepper notes also appear, but not in a very strong manner. This one shows a "legeres" (means light and casual) style.

Medium body with medium acidity and medium velvet tannin. Light chocolate, light wooden spices, dry prunes, pickled prunes, light over ripe berries, light floral, peppers (black and chili). Medium length with licorice note ending.
[/column] [column width=45% padding=5%] 石榴紅加褐色

Saint Emilion 的特級園 (premier grand cru classe),建立於1716年。香氣不像 Montrose 那麼強壯,且調性有些差異。開頭是淡美式咖啡混著粗紅糖的味道,還有一些肉桂與皮革。之後有興仁與花香(淡淡的玫瑰味道跟其他花類),不是很濃的梨子香味。呈現較為清淡的風格。

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