Nicolas Joly 與他的生物動力法哲學

這次去法國參加RVF world wine tasting championship 之後,想盡辦法安排了幾家酒莊參訪,其中重頭戲之一就是Nicolas Joly 的 Chateau de la Roche-aux-Moines,該酒莊最有名的酒款就是 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant。



Coulée字面上的意思是小山谷,如果看google map地形圖的話可能沒甚麼感覺,但是看照片的話就可以發現真的是個陡峭小谷地。
上圖對面就是 Coulée de Serrant, 可以看到下坡處有一區正重新種植。

這個標示圖可以看出Nicolas Joly他們家擁有三個 AOC 的分布。其中Coulée de Serrant是他們家獨佔,而Savennières Roche-aux-Moines則還有其他酒莊持有。





當天天氣其實很濕,前一天還下過雨,在Roche-aux-Moines這一側的時候,可以發現葡萄園內石塊較少,含水比較多,但是因為葡萄園跟羅亞爾河谷之間種有一排樹木,所以風勢明顯很小。但到了 Coulée de Serrant,除了較低處有些泥濘之外,多石塊的土質讓這側土壤乾燥許多,再加上沒有樹木屏障,整個風勢大上不少,溫度明顯地冷。

Nicolas Joly訪談

下面的 youtube 影片是錄音檔配上照片,底下文字為重點整理。個人覺得比較酸的部分是在自然酒、孟山都,還有酸度與酒精這些事情。

  • you wont eat things not eatable, such as plastic, and so do the vines.
  • chemical fertilizer is salt-based, if you eat too much salt, you will drink a lot of water. So, chemical based viticulture is water based. cooper, sulphur
  • traditional diseases can be easily controlled by cooper and sulphur. chemical medicines (molecular synthesis) is poisoning the soil and the vine.
  • technically control too much (acidity, alcohol, etc.) can give you a good wine, but no personality
  • organic : not disturb the nature. focus in the vineyard.
  • biodynamic: life is given to the earth because we are a member of solar system. lives receive sun light, which contains the information lets the plants flowering and fruiting. plants link with the earth, sun, etc. biodynamic treatments are used to enhance the link between the plants and the earth & sun. besides, let all other things happen, i.e. less interfere. 94% is photosynthesis (get energy from sun). biodynamic is just assistant.
  • the spirit of biodynamic treatment preparation: put an organ of a plant with a digestive animal to create power. Horn is connected with sun. these are used to reconnect the place with the whole system (earth, sun, etc.)
  • clone is convenient but stupid. if a vineyard is full of the same clone, there’s no specity. low yield, no clones, and animals.
  • do not interfere in your cellar. cellar is a process concentrating the maturity
  • generally speaking, people harvest too early, to avoid the alcohol, but if your vineyard is managed well, the alcohol wont be noticed.
  • natural wine, don’t get fooled by this, it means nothing. there’s no legal commitments. even using products from Monsanto can do natural wine. if you want to catch the market without becoming organic or biodynamic, you call it natural wine.
  • you may heard some people good in natural wine, some are completely fake.
  • protection vs oxidation. sulphur (volcanic sulphur is not legal, because the industry controlls it. The industry controls the market, including cooper and sulphur, which exists in the nature), vitamin c, potassium, filtration.
  • oxidation is the death force, but a wine with energy (biodynamic) can get alone with it, that’s why you can drink some wines for many days.
  • today, massale selection is less than 10%.
  • if the pH is low enough (contains a lot of acidity), your wine wont be oxidized easily (without sulphur).