2010/12/30
未成年請勿飲酒，飲酒過量有礙身體健康
Kracher這家奧地利國寶級酒廠由Aloix Kracher Sr. 創立，在Aloix Kracher Jr.手上攀上高峰，目前由第三代 Gerhard 經營。
Aloix Kracher Sr. 慧眼獨具，早許多人之前在 Neusiedlersee 這個多霧、多水氣，上午冷涼下午炎熱的區域種植葡萄。Neusiedlersee 屬於Burgenland 產區，整個 Burgenland 現今也成為奧地利有名的貴腐酒產地。
出生於 1959 年的 Aloix Kracher Jr. 為酒廠最主要的靈魂人物，原本主攻化學，並在藥廠工作，閒暇時兼職幫忙家中酒廠的事務，直到 1989 年，30歲的 Aloix Jr. 才決定整個全職投入酒廠工作。當時奧地利的葡萄酒產業正處於 1980 年醜聞的恢復期(請參考奇怪產區品酒會 - 奧地利)，雖然奧地利官方在1985 年訂定了許多法規與建立分級制度，但整體環境並不是太好。然而在 Aloix Jr. 的努力之下，自 1991 年 Kracher 的TBA 的名氣開始提升，並在1993 年的倫敦品酒會中打敗 Chateau d'Yquem，頓時之間獲得全世界的注目。再加上各大酒評單位的加持，Kracher 的聲勢便一舉登上高峰。Aloix Kracher Jr. 受到後人尊崇，我想原因不只是他被 Wine Magazine 五次選為年度最佳釀酒師，更因為他對當時孱弱的奧地利葡萄酒業有著不可抹滅的振興功績。
2007年12月5日，Aloix Jr. 以48歲壯年死於胰臟癌(所以2006年為Aloix Jr.最後一個年份)，不僅是 Kracher 酒廠的損失，更是奧地利與全世界葡萄酒業的損失，特別是貴腐酒。現在酒廠為 Aloix Jr. 的獨子Gerhard 接手，自小耳濡目染的新主人應該可以跟父親一樣繼續交出亮眼迷人的 TBA。
Kracher 酒廠釀製 TBA 的方法主要分兩類，ZdS (Zwischen de Seen 意為 "湖之間")與 NV (Nouvelle Vague 意為 "新潮")。傳統的ZdS用不銹鋼槽或者大橡木桶(500~3000L)陳年，產生酒精度較低(7~10%)，帶有柑橘陳皮的貴腐香氣。NV 的方式則類似Sauternes的做法，使用225L的標準法國橡木桶培養，產生酒精度較高(13%)，以及來自烘烤木桶的奶油、焦糖與花香調性香味。這些釀造與陳年的方式有一說是因為 Alois Kracher Jr. 和Chateau d'Yquem的前釀酒師Pierre Meslier，以及德國知名酒莊Egon Muller熟識的緣故，所以舊派與新派的釀製方式 Kracher 酒廠都應用得爐火純青。
Kracher 的 TBA 酒款都匯在酒標上以數字編號區分糖度，數字越高糖分越高，某些年份最高可達到 15。
Chardonnay TBA NV 2000 #3
Medium+ amber gold.
The nose cue the French barrque is used. Butter, apricot, oak, spicy vanilla (slightly decreasing), hazelnut (increasing), light honey.
Plate is rich with great high acidity. Peach, light honey, plastic glue, tangerine, almond. Ends with ripe apple note. Chewy mouthfeel.
Traminer TBA NV 2005 #3
Medium amber gold, slightly green hue.
Honey, mineral, bouquet, acacia, rose, cream, and hints of smoke and ginger.
Sweet palate with medium+ body. Honey, sugar, litchi, pineapple and light white pepper.
Scheurebe TBA ZdS 2004 #4
Medium+ gold.
Fresh medium nose includes rose, lily, spices, fresh grass, petrol, plastic glue and honey hint.
High acidity with pineapple note. Bouquet, peach, ginger, caramel sweetness. The lingering and interesting ending shows dry black date flavor.
Grand Cuvee TBA NV 1999 #6
Medium amber.
Light oxidized and savory flavor. Vegetables, caramel, coffee, nuts, apricot, gravel, ripe citrues.
Chewy mouthfeel with light savory note. Coffee, caramel, honey, orange, dry starfruits, light butter, and light chocolate hint (at end).
Grand Cuvee TBA NV 2000 #6
Medium- amber, gold hue.
Honey, mineral, over-ripe tangerine, light but lovely acacia bouquet (increasing), light vanilla. But slightly volatility note.
Chewy and sweet with medium body. Palate includes honey, acacia, wood barrel, vanilla, light peach, white pepper, tangerine skin, chocolate hint and dry sugar pickled fruits. Crisp acidity is quite high and very lingering.
Chardonnay TBA NV 1999 #7
Medium+ amber.
Oxidized flavor, like old wine. Nuts, ripe tangerine and coffee.
High acidiy, chewy mouthfeel. Chocolate, caramel, nuts, and over-ripe starfruit. Ending pops up a mixing hint of chocolate and tangerine.
Chardonnay Welschriesling TBA NV 1998 #7
Medium amber and ornage.
Light oxidized nose. Almond, honey, hazelnut, coffee, caramel, hazelnut, palstic glue, petrol, and coconut (很像椰子奶酥).
Chewy. Tangerine juice, caramel, chocolate, apricot, honey, pear, pineapple. Crisp acidity (medium-high).
Welschriesling TBA ZdS 2006 #9
Medium blonde. 酒石酸沉澱
Honey, acacia bouquet, light spicy grass. Active and pronounced nose.
Palate includes honey, acacia, light cream, litchi, peach, caramelized pineapple. High in acidity and chewy in mouth.
Welschriesling TBA ZdS 1998 #11
Medium amber and orange color.
Light oxidized nose, old and savory. Baked nuts, light tobacco, bouquet, raisin, light honey, wooden, light plastic pipe, coffee, caramel.
Palate contains tangerine, vanilla, caramel, honey, chocolate, light mushroom. The mouthfeel is not as chewy as I expected.
Kracher ZdS 2002 #12
50 % Scheurebe, 50 % Welschriesling.
Medium amber color. Light oxidized nose, wood, caramel, honey, grass, 仙草蜜
Palate shows good acidity with apple, orange, lemon and honey.
I think this one is the typical style of ZdS, pure and fresh noses and flavors, not too much nuts and barrel effects.
Scheurebe TBA ZdS 2006 #12
酒石酸沉澱
Medium blonde. Butter toast, orange, honey, rose, sugarcane, and litchi.
Not so chewy. Peach, honey, bouquet, litchi, pear, pineapple. Comfortable, coating, and very sweet.